58715072201 Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

First I removed two screws that held the door panel on. Then I pulled out the old gasket, inserted the new one, replaced the door and screws and it was done! We tested the dishwasher and no more leaks!

If you are getting intermittent leaks especially when you put a pot lid up front, it’s probably just the door gasket. And this was the easiest project I’ve tackled as a homeowner since buying the place 20 years ago. I read the other stories and I think the suggestion I choose to follow is not the best thing to do. So, read passed where I cut the gasket. I used needle nose pliers to grab the bottom edge of the old gasket which then pulled out by hand with almost no effort. I used the old gasket to measure the new gasket as recommended in one of the other stories, and cut it. DON"T DO THIS. The gasket is very soft foam rubber. As you push it in (I just used my fingers), it will get longer as you push it in. I put it in the first time (took about a minute if that long) and even though I cut it to the same length as the old one, it was too long. Obviously I figured I did something wrong. So, I took it out and measured it again. Nope, same-same. So, I put in a second time, careful not to stretch it, and this time it was now too short. So, I recommend that you just establish the bottom edge 90 degree angle seat and try not to stretch it as you work your way around the seam. It should fit just find, maybe with a little adjustment back or forth, but without cutting it at all. By the way, the half inch I cut off at the recommendation of one of the other reviews did not ruin it. It works just fine. So you can cut it if you want I suppose. But that half inch I cut off was what I was short when I was carful not to stretch it.

Both the door latch assembly and strike broke on the dishwasher. I was happy to find both parts available at PartSelect.com. Simply removed mounting screws so I could pull the dishwasher out, removed the old strike, disconnected the 4 wire attachments and removed the ddor latch assembly, and re-assembled with the new parts. Pretty easy job- the only unusual thing was that you need a torx screwdriver for the latch assembly.

I removed the screws on the inside of the dishwasher door to remove the front facade to get access to the door latch assembly, I think about 6 screws. Then I unscrewed the two hex screws that mounted the latch assembly to the door. I then had to un-hook the electrical wires (4 plugs, 2 on a side) from the assembly. I attached those same plugs to the new door latch, and mounted the assembly back on with the two screws, and tested the door to see if it closed, latched, and if the dish washer would run (since I unhooked and rehooked up the electrical wires). Finally I screwed the front facade back on and was done. It took about 5 minutes. I did get a small shock when I was removing the electrical plugs from the old assembly from touching the metal dish washer door and one of the plugs at same time.

After receiving my part in a timely manner, I removed the six screws holding the cover on the door. After making sure the appliance was unplugged, I removed the two star screws and removed the broken latch assembly. I disconnected the four electrical wires noting their placement. I connected the wires to the new latch assembly, screwed the assembly to the door, and replaced the cover on the door. That was one of the best quick-fix experiences I have ever had. Thanks PartSelect.com!!!!

I removed the screws from the inside of the door. There are also tiny screws you have to remove that holds the part onto the door. Then I was able to remove the part, unplug the power receptacles and install the new part. Very simple!!

I removed 6 screws to get to the door latch, then removed 2 screws to remove the broken latch assembly. Changed out 4 wires, reinstalled the 2 screws that attached the latch to the door,thenreinstall the 6 screws that assemble the door back together. Everything fit and works properly. Thanks guys, your service was great.

two screws, and pull unit out from under counter, turn on it's side. Two allen-head screws to remove motor retaining clip, unplug wires, and remove motor. Reassemble, using silicone grease on O-rings that seal motor. That's it.

Removed the two bracket screws attaching the washer to the countertop, and removed the kick panel beneath the door. Pulled the washer out enough to access the spring arms. Replaced the broken spring arms, and pushed the washer back into it's space, re-attaching the kick plate, and securing the lock tabs on top of the washer. Used one phillips screwdriver, a #2 tip. That simple.

I removed the kick panel at the bottom front of the dishwasher. Then using a flashlight and a cross point screwdriver, I removed the thermostat from about the middle left. It requires a short screwdriver, but not quite as short as a stubby. I unplugged the wires, noting that one of them was a little burnt looking. The burnt looking connector was still okay. I then installed the new one, with the green dot on the thermostat having the slightly burnt looking connector. Then I ran a load of dishes and the dishwasher worked as it was supposed to. It has worked okay twice since then.

The replacement hose was not as long and the original and therefore did not fit into the track made for the original one. Though it was long enough to work, an additional 4 inches would have been an exact fit.
As a result, the replacement had to be duct taped to the side of the dishwasher to hold it in place. Otherwise, the new hose was of better quality that the flimsy original. All in all, I could have picked up 3 feet of rubber hose from an auto parts or hardware store cheaper and done the job just as well, if not better.

Internet search found high limit switch as primary failure, removed dishwasher existing part looked new, no signs of wear as was expected. Second failure was the heating element, I ordered the part; At the same time I found a random youtube video, that had me check the continuity of the heater and tested good. Then the video indicated the heater relay may have one leg that has lost the solder and stops the heater element from working. I took the control panel a part and the heater relay had the same failure, one leg had a missing solder joint. Using some flux, solder and soldering iron I repaired the connection and added some addition solder to the circuit. Reassembled and the dishwasher is heating as it was before everything is working as expected!
(P.S. The heater relay failure appears to be a common problem, but the actual root cause [relay failure due to poor solder joint] is never reported back to the company, they just hear the heater element stopped working and they never fix the real issue because the customers are throwing out the dishwasher, when it could have been repaired with a simple fix. More importantly it should be something that is investigated as it may needs an engineering redesign. but can't fix what you don't know about or fail to investigate. I did purchase a new relay to replace the existing one, to be installed upon arrival).
Once again a random youtube video identifies and resolves a problem, that would have had me purchasing a new dishwasher, and maybe this is all planned engineering obsolescence.
When will get smart dishwasher that have sensors or at least codes that report the failures correctly, to make DIY repairs?

Used pliers to remove old seal. Keep seal in position, note the notch facing the hole. Align the new seal, press it in, the notch helps align. Mine slipped in easy

After moving the dishwasher out from the cabinetry, I removed the screws holding the pump in place. Pulling the pump from the formed plastic opening, I found a toothpick lodged in the pump housing. At the same time I noticed that the front o-ring was deformed due to being the incorrect size (too large). It was installed at the factory this way.

I went online to search for new parts. PartSelect was the second or third listing on the search page. I submitted the dishwasher model number and was taken to a set of parts illustrations. I was easily able to find the o-rings I needed.

Turned off elecrtic and water to dishwasher and pulled dishwasher out from under cabinet. Removed broken hose using pliers to open hose clamps.
installed new hose.