58715072200 Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

#1 rule, make sure you valve off the water before removing any hoses. Remove wire trays inside dishwasher and then pull out dishwasher far enough to disconnect water line and power cord. Remove center piece and screen covering sump inside the dishwasher. Turn dishwasher on its side and remove hoses to sump and pump. Disconnect power to sump pump. Loosen retaining nuts that secure the sump and remove. Replace old gasket on sump with new. Turn dishwasher upright. Be careful with placement of new gasket when reinserting sump so that the gasket doesn't come out of position and the sump is centered properly. Secure with retaining nuts from bottom. Reconnect power connector and hoses to sump. Pour enough water into the dishwasher to verify gasket doesn't leak... look with flashlight under dishwasher for signs of water dripping from sump. Reinstall screen and centerpiece in sump inside the dishwasher. Reconnect water line and power cord. Run through wash cycle while monitoring for leaks under dishwasher. Reinstall wire trays.

Piece of cake as long as you get the gasket installed properly and the sump centered correctly... do not overtighten the retaining nuts or it may force the gasket out of position when the screen is secure with the center locking piece over the sump.

Lower the door and remove bottom dish tray. Feel with fingers the area where gasket will be pulled from (just below bottom door edge) Pull old gasket from door edge into direction of inside dishwasher. Insert new one in same orientation as old (small slit to right side). New gasket strip will seat into door bottom.

Took off front door panel with two screws. Found the part in the door. took it out and slide the new part in. My husband screwed the screws while I held the door in place. If I had known it was so easy to do I would have done it as soon as I got the part but I waited for my husbands help.

pulled DW out from under counter. drained water from unit. laid DW on its side. removed 5 screws from unit 2 to remove drain motor and three to remove bracket. used adj pliers to remove spring clamp and screwdriver to remove other clamp. to install i did the reverse

Very, very easy. Pop off the old wheels and snap the new ones into place on the rack.

Manually took off melted parts and replaced them with the new ones.

My upper spray arm attaches to the upper dish rack. It comes in four parts: the spray arm, the bracket which attaches it to the rack, the water funnel, and a plastic nut that holds the pieces together. The nut was worn and wouldn't hold so I replaced that piece and it works great. It took less than one minute to fix.

After several years of use and cleaning the small "nubs" that held the locking peice on the assembly under the jet arm had worn off. This allowed the whole thing to spin and the dishes weren't getting clean. Finding the part on the site was easy, it arrived amazingly fast and all is up and working great. I have used Parts Select 2 or 3 times in the past and have always had the same great results. Saved me a bunch in repair bills. Thanks

Pulled the dishwasher out from under the ounter, laid it flat on the front side, unplugged the motor, removed two screws and the retaining clip, pulled the motor straight out, oiled and put the new o-rings on the new motor, slid it in, replaced the clip and two screws, reinstalled the dishwasher, and done.

For some strange reason my new dishwasher was installed without a door gasket, which caused a very small water leak. The gasket I purchased was installed in less than 5 minutes and corrected the problem immediately - a very easy task and I am no handyman!

First I removed two screws that held the door panel on. Then I pulled out the old gasket, inserted the new one, replaced the door and screws and it was done! We tested the dishwasher and no more leaks!

If you are getting intermittent leaks especially when you put a pot lid up front, it’s probably just the door gasket. And this was the easiest project I’ve tackled as a homeowner since buying the place 20 years ago. I read the other stories and I think the suggestion I choose to follow is not the best thing to do. So, read passed where I cut the gasket. I used needle nose pliers to grab the bottom edge of the old gasket which then pulled out by hand with almost no effort. I used the old gasket to measure the new gasket as recommended in one of the other stories, and cut it. DON"T DO THIS. The gasket is very soft foam rubber. As you push it in (I just used my fingers), it will get longer as you push it in. I put it in the first time (took about a minute if that long) and even though I cut it to the same length as the old one, it was too long. Obviously I figured I did something wrong. So, I took it out and measured it again. Nope, same-same. So, I put in a second time, careful not to stretch it, and this time it was now too short. So, I recommend that you just establish the bottom edge 90 degree angle seat and try not to stretch it as you work your way around the seam. It should fit just find, maybe with a little adjustment back or forth, but without cutting it at all. By the way, the half inch I cut off at the recommendation of one of the other reviews did not ruin it. It works just fine. So you can cut it if you want I suppose. But that half inch I cut off was what I was short when I was carful not to stretch it.

Removed the two bracket screws attaching the washer to the countertop, and removed the kick panel beneath the door. Pulled the washer out enough to access the spring arms. Replaced the broken spring arms, and pushed the washer back into it's space, re-attaching the kick plate, and securing the lock tabs on top of the washer. Used one phillips screwdriver, a #2 tip. That simple.

I removed the screws on the inside of the dishwasher door to remove the front facade to get access to the door latch assembly, I think about 6 screws. Then I unscrewed the two hex screws that mounted the latch assembly to the door. I then had to un-hook the electrical wires (4 plugs, 2 on a side) from the assembly. I attached those same plugs to the new door latch, and mounted the assembly back on with the two screws, and tested the door to see if it closed, latched, and if the dish washer would run (since I unhooked and rehooked up the electrical wires). Finally I screwed the front facade back on and was done. It took about 5 minutes. I did get a small shock when I was removing the electrical plugs from the old assembly from touching the metal dish washer door and one of the plugs at same time.

Both the door latch assembly and strike broke on the dishwasher. I was happy to find both parts available at PartSelect.com. Simply removed mounting screws so I could pull the dishwasher out, removed the old strike, disconnected the 4 wire attachments and removed the ddor latch assembly, and re-assembled with the new parts. Pretty easy job- the only unusual thing was that you need a torx screwdriver for the latch assembly.