58715072200 Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

This was pretty easy. It was a guess as to the problem, but there much debate , if the water isn't moving it had to be the pump, right?. So i replaced the circulation pump. 2 screws on the top and two trim screws on the bottom, and it slides right out. Then UNPLUG IT.. Take the screen out of the bottom on the inside and make sure you get all the water out or it will end up on the floor when you tip it on it's side. The directions were ok, i looked over them briefly but didn't use them. tools were, phillips srewdriver, torx driver (pump bracket srews) wire stripper/crimper (for the plug adaptor) and a heat gun, (for the heat shrink tube for the crimp connection). Overall it was pretty easy. the pump was made to be easy to replace. 45 min and back in action.

Removed screws and put new bottom gasket in old one just fell out.

Took the dishwasher out removed the two screws and the part holding the motor in and removed the motor. Received the parts, places o'rings on the motor, which came with the kit, even though I ordered the two o'rings. Replaced the motor, installed the part that holds the motor and tightened the screws. Cut the old connector off the dishwasher and replaced it with a new connector that came with the kit. Reinstalled the dishwasher, works great. Thanks for your Site.

took the door off after several failed attempts, which is easy to do - 2 scews. Then it was easier to find the channel the gasket fits into.

For all Frigidaire diswasher owners, after taking the door off, I realized it was the seal around the soap dispenser that was leaking, due to stripped screws, not the gasket. I rigged it with silicone caulk, but may have to replace that - looks easy, .

I foloowed the others who repared the same item. I really appreciated their help and input. The only thing I would add is when they said that you only have to remove the bottom 2 screws on the inside of the dishwasher door they are absolutely correct. But don't look on the very bottom of the door like I did. They are on the inside of the door, facing inside. The bottom screw on each side. Thanks for all the help.

Remove and replace the door gasket. Removed the 6 phillips head screws holding the top panel cover. This gives access to the latch assembly. Remove the two screw holding the latch in place. I removed the four wires one at a time with needle nose pliers and plugged them on the right spade of the new latch assembly. This assures getting them in the correct position. I then mounted the latch with the two screws and installed the cover with the 6 screws. Job done, piece of cake.

Unplugged the dishwasher and pulled it out. Tipped it down on its side. Removed the old and replaced the new. Re-installed and replugged it. Ran a test. Checked for leaks.

Previous self-repair instructions provided on this site were very helpful. I started by removing items from under the sink and inspecting drainage and water hoses of the dishwasher to determine amount of "play" for sliding the washer out. Next, remove the two screws that secure the washer under the top of the counter. Then, remove the kickplate and barrier at the bottom. The washer then slid easily out far enough to explose the spring connector arms. I removed the old springs from the floor and the pieces of the old links (one link was ok, but I saved it for a spare). I installed the links and springs on both sides and connected to the first hole. By the way, the hole in the lower frame relatively close behind link is NOT the spring connection hole. There are a series of holes farther back. After testing the door and re-hooking the springs twice,I decided that the fourth hole gave the tension that I wanted. Now the door will come up about half way on its own, but will stay fully open when pulling out the empty bottom basket. Slide the washer back under the counter, being careful not to catch the insulation at the top and sides of the washer. Line up the top screw holes and install the screws. Install the barrier panel and kickplate at the bottom. I had to "fiddle" with the kick plate and barrier panel a little to get it right because I did not play close attention when removing them. I probably saved $100 by doing it myself. My wife said "It's just like new!"

replaced with new lower rack, out with the old, in with the new! Shipping was great new part arrived in 2 days! Great service, and will use again for all parts needed in the future, and will tell everyone about this site! Thanks a bunch!

It is rather easy to repair. After you remove the screws that secure the top of the dishwasher to the countertop you can slide the disherwasher out far enough to gain access to the hose. The hose pulls off after you slide the spring clips down the hose far enough so they no longer grab. Then simply reverse the order and you're done. Less than 30 minutes and you should no longer have to hand wash your dishes!

slide out dishwasher. remove 2 screws holding motor/pump assembly in. slide out motor/pump bracket. disconnect electrical connection from motor. pull motor/pump assembly out. install new 'O' rings on new motor/pump assembly. (lube with liquid soap). install assembly. slide in motor clamp and install 2 screws. reinstall dishwasher. run test cycle. Fixed!!

I took out 6 screws, the face plate just hung down. Make sure the breaker is off. there were two screws that held the switch and handle in place took those two out. Disconnected the four wires on the microswitchs and placed them on the new handle. Put the diswasher back together. Turned breaker on and worked great. But it started to leak. This is why they give you the gasket. The new latch does not always match to the same seal o the gasket. Replaced the gasket took less them two min. Ran the dishwasher again no leaks and the handle you can use one finger to unlock.

The repair went very easy. Just opened the door , and pulled out the worn seal. Lined up the new seal and carefullly pushed new seal into place. Seal pushed in very smooth.

Delivery of this part was really fast. I ordered very early on a Thursday morning and the package was at my house Friday afternoon. This was a pretty simple repair. First you take the front panel off. There is an upper panel where the controls are and a lower finished apnel. Open the door, the screws are on the inside face of the door. Put a towel on the floor so the panel doesn't drop and scratch the floor or get damaged. Unscrew the panels so you can get to the door handle, it is held in with two torx screws (star shaped head). Take the handle off and remove the wires on the door switch. Installation is the reverse, mind that you install the wires on the right leads. The handle works better than the original ever did.

Removed front of door to see how gasket was installed. removed door for proper cleaning of gasket area, removed old gasket cleaned area and installed new gasket in holder notch, reinstalled door adjusting alinement, reinstalled door front.