41799175100 Kenmore Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions
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Loud Squealing
Remove top panel with large flat screwdriver and 2 screws in back.Remove bottom panel with 2 screws.Release belt tensioner and remove belt.Remove 3 screws in center of drum inside.Remove drum. Remove rear bearing by pulling up on assembly.Replace all parts in reverse order.
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William from Hudson Falls, NY
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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Gas dryer would generate heat at the beginning of the cycle but would stop after 5 min and would start making a buzzing noise.
Unplug from electric outlet. Use putty knife to press on two brackets holding the top cover. Raise top cover. Unscrew two screws holding the front panel. Raise front panel up and move to the right (careful with the wires). Disconnect wires from coils. Unscrew two screws holding a small bracket holding the coils. Replace coils and reassemble everything. (HINT: make sure you drum is empty. Mine contained dump clothes, and it turned out front panel actually provides support to the drum, so mine was hanging there with some weight in it - probably not good).
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Denis from LONGMEADOW, MA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
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No heat to dry clothes.
There was a lot of screws. And I cleaned everything well. The one part was bad so I replaced them all to make sure it'll last.
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James from SAGINAW, MI
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
2 of 2 people
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bearing bad and shaft broken
replaced bearing and shaft new belt and everything works just fine
Parts Used:
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Randall from New Roads, LA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
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Dryer making horrible squeaking sound when running
I am a "do-it-yourselfer" despite my husbands opposition. I followed instructions from one of the posts on the site and took apart the dryer. I found the location of the rear bearing and took it out and replaced it with the new one. Easy as that. Made sure the parts looked the same. Made sure I saw how everything went together. I used a magnet to hold the ball bearing in place on the rear mount and taped the metal bracket on the outside of the dryer. Screwed it right in. Reassembled in reverse and works like a charm. To all the women out there who don't think they can do this. It's easy. Give it a try.
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SHARON from SUMMERVILLE, SC
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
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Washer pumps and drains but does not agitate or spin.
Purchased both the belt and idler pulley. Bought the idler pulley "to have it if it were needed" since it was only a $15 part.
Watched two videos provided on PartSelect for our model number with our symptoms. Both showed an easy access of idler pulley at the front of the washer. My emailed invoice also contained links to the video for each part.
Getting the panels off went exactly like the video. However, the idler pulley was nearly on the back side of the tub assembly/transmission and NOT easily accessed as shown in the video.
I replaced the belt and ran the washer without replacing the idler pulley. Since it performed very well agitated/spun I elected to avoid the daunting looking task of idler pulley replacement. Hung it up for "just in case" future use....again not hard to do at only $15.
Watched two videos provided on PartSelect for our model number with our symptoms. Both showed an easy access of idler pulley at the front of the washer. My emailed invoice also contained links to the video for each part.
Getting the panels off went exactly like the video. However, the idler pulley was nearly on the back side of the tub assembly/transmission and NOT easily accessed as shown in the video.
I replaced the belt and ran the washer without replacing the idler pulley. Since it performed very well agitated/spun I elected to avoid the daunting looking task of idler pulley replacement. Hung it up for "just in case" future use....again not hard to do at only $15.
Parts Used:
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DENNIS from EATON RAPIDS, MI
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
2 of 3 people
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transmission wore out
After struggeling the most with lifting out the inner drum and then the wash drum. I realized when the job was complete a better way. 1. Take the top off the washer. 2. take the front off the washer. Then disconnect all wires and hoses from assembly One small hose on the tub and the pump hose at the bottom. 3. at the bottom of the overall assembly there are 3 braces holding the tub assembly with 2 springs on each brace. Go under and remove the springs and then lift the whole assembly out into the middle of the floor. 4. remove the top cap off of the agitator. 5. remove the agitator. 6. if you are lucky and the bolts are not seized in the block that holds the shaft remove the small steel block from the bell and remove the bell. 6. Slide the inner tub up and off the shaft and again if all goes well the outer wash tub should slip up off the shaft as well. 7. remove the drive belt from the motor and transmission.
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Tim from Flemington, WV
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Difficulty Level:Difficult
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Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
2 of 3 people
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Our door catch got lost inside the dryer after the door was slammed to hard
I took the new door catch out of the packaging and just snapped it in place it was easy peasy and took less time than opening the package
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Joyce from PORTAL, GA
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
2 of 3 people
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Latch on dryer no longer worked
So easy! I ordered the part on the website. Received it 24 hours later. And popped it in place. Good as new.
Parts Used:
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chris from dallas, TX
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
2 of 3 people
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loud squeeling noise
After changing the drum support bearing, and the front felt ring, the noise continued. It turned out to be the tensioner pully. The harmonic vibration travels throughout the dryer box like an instrument so you can't tell where the sound is comming from. Before you do anything, spray a little wd40 between the bushing and the shaft on the belt tenioner pully. If the squeel goes away, you have found your smoking gun.
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Lewis from Thornton, CO
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
2 of 3 people
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bearing went out
took apart and replaced parts easy to do but no one in my town can get me parts. thay want 100.00 gust to come out and look at it so found parts online and thats that
Parts Used:
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james from tahlequah, OK
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
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burning rubber smell
Poped up top, removed front pannel (2 phillip head screws) observed failed belt. Replaced belt. Tensioner can be held back by hand so it was easy. Works great. Part Select Rocks! I put in the model number and bam, there was my needed part, 3 days later it was in my hands. This was after me wasting time driving around town trying to find it at home depot type stores to no avail. I'll never do that again. This website makes repairing appliances a snap. Gotta love on-line shopping! woo hoo
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Lewis from Thornton, CO
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
2 of 4 people
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strike broken
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Linda from Batesburg, SC
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Just popped the part I ordered right in and it's was closing in no time !
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Debra from BROOKLYN, NY
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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The clothes were not getting dry, no matter how long they ran
The first thing I did was logged onto the internet to search the web for my dryer information. Next, after I found the correct model, the site referred me to the parts section and that is where I determined the problem was the M series ignition coil. I then unplugged the dryer and turned off the gas. I took a screwdriver and popped the top off and cut the wire straps that held the door strips and the light to the front panel. I then unplugged the door switch at the connector - HOWEVER - DO NOT TRY TO REMOVE THE WIRES FROM THE ACTUAL DOOR SWITCH BECAUSE THEY ARE VERY FRAGILE AND CAN EASILY BREAK. Next, I removed the two screws that hold the front panel on. By using a slight bit of pressure, I removed the front panel and was able to locate where the ignition coil switch was. (It was right in front) I then removed the two screws that held the clamp down, as well as the bad coils. The coils easily slid off the post and the new pieces slid back on just as easy. I then replaced the screws and clamps to hold the new pieces in place and replaced the front panel. **NOTE ~ while the front panel is off, it would be a good time to clean out all the built up dirt and lint that has accumulated over the years. Lastly, I re-connected all switches and wires and replaced the top panel. Once I turned the gas back on, everything ran beautifully.
Parts Used:
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Bruce from madison, OH
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
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