41782 - Instructions

I watched videos so I would know what I was doing. Well No, My thermostat was in the front of the dryer. But after a little blood and sweat, and I am not kidding, I got the front off. I ordered my new part. Finally got it in Spent $40.00 and it still doesn't work. I know it was the right part. I checked all the trouble shooting web site. That was the only thing they said it would be. Friends advice tell me it is the brains of the thing and I need a new one. Well not 2 weeks before Christmas. Thanks for asking. Single hard working mom.

Replaced the heating element assembly. Problem was still there. Checked the electrical schematic to try to resolve. Everything checked out except the contacts on the motor M-1 to M-2 had no continuity. Removed the switch from the motor and exercised it. Works fine now.

Replace rear bearing, found Exhust tube seal broken. Went ahead and replaced Drum belt & Idler arm assembly. Works like New !

I removed dryer exhaust hose.unsnapped top cover the clips are in front and exposed inside of dryer,remove 2 screws on inside of front cover and set aside. remove lower cover in back and push belt extender until belt is loose remove 3 screws on inside of tumbler. remove tumbler out the front of dryer be careful not to damage belt set aside remove ball plate by pulling up and out it will unsnap. Now remove 2 sets of wires that are connected to heater element plate remove 4 screws holding element plate in place. Since dryer was all exposed I cleaned everything out with a wet vac put back together following instructions in reverse. Good luck

I remove the old lint filter and just put the new one in.

popped the catch in existing hole and replaced the screws

Removed the back panel and the exhaust hose.removed the heater element and changed the thermostat wire was melted cut damaged part of wire soldered and rapped with black electrical tap

i first looked up the diagram for this model and checked for the best way to take the front cover off the dryer. after removing the front cover i start looking for the wires that connect the door switch and remove the wires. the front cover also supports the weight of the drum, so carefully pull the cover until the drum comes loose. at this point you can visually see the parts of the parts that make up the workings of the dryer. i first noticed the drum was coming out with the front cover at this time i knew the rear drum assembly was broke. i then took the belt loose from tension pulley and slid it off the drum and removed both from the cabinet. after the drum was removed i also noticed the heating was broken in several places. i removed four screws from the heating element assembly and also removed two wire that were connected to the element. with all pieces removed i checked the thermal switches, there are three switches, one on the heating element, one on the vent side and one on the back panel of the cabinet. i then installed the rear drum assembly and the heating element assembly and connected the wires. i then slid the drum almost all the in place and put the new belt around the drum and dropped the rear drum into the bracket that supports the rear drum then run the belt around the tension pulley and around the motor pulley. i then placed the front panel back in place and connected the wires for the door switch and lifted the drum assembly up just enough to insert the front panel door support into the drum and placed the clips in place, checked all connections twice and connected power back to the unit and turned on and run it through all its settings.

I googled and found parts select, listed model make and found parts diagram, found suspected parts from trouble shooting blog. I read repair stories, people who performed identical repairs, followed their lead, made notes ordered parts and
easily repaired my dryer for a fraction of the cost of replacing dryer.

I disassembled the dryer using instructions from the following website for White Westinghouse (pictures really helped)
After removing the drum, I first noticed that the grouding ball was sitting on the bottom of the dryer (along with much lint). I then saw that the bracket for bearing support cup and the bearing support cup were both worn well past use. The bracket had been worn down about 1/4" to the SE with matching wear on the bearing support cup. There was a hole in the bottom of the bearing support cup (hence the grouding ball on the floor of dryer).
I installed the new idler pulley assembly and completely vacuumed out the dryer (I didn't know lint could get so stiff!). I installed the new parts from the kit once received (and the new belt bought previously) and the dryer works great. I'm so used to the obnoxious squealing that it seems odd to be so quiet.

The internet is a magnificent thing!

Super straightforward to diagnose and repair.

There was puddle under the washer.

I removed the top (screws in rear, slide top toward rear slightly and lift) and followed the trail of water up to the top washer hose between the drum and detergent tray.

Two hose clamps to remove and replace, then replace the top and ready to go.

2 hose clamps and a hose, easy! This would be a very common cause of leaks in washers due to all the movement inside.

My wife was able to easily do the repair before I could get home from work to do it. She watched the PartSelect video on her iPad as she did the necessary steps to get the belt replaced. We only needed one glide replacement, as one was still attached and intact. We should have purchased both sets of felt seal replacements, though that wasn't as urgent.
My wife thought the repair was quite easy overall.

Followed your website repair guides and the great belt replacement video.

Other parts used were; front lower basket seal, dryer seal, and dryer drum belt.

Had no problems except for keeping the drum belt idler pulley tension spring in place. Used the rear access panel to solve this issue.

John H.
Palm Desert, CA

The disassembly was very easy and it appeared that this would be a very quick repair. But the removal of the old felt was difficult and once it was removed it took a lot of effort to remove the bits still stuck on. The tool of choice to remove the stuck on felt was a small torch. After that use a coarse sand paper to remove the remnants. Glue on the new felt and reinstall the front panel.