41729042991 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

I removed the 2 screws holding the broken door catch in place, and attached the new door catch with them. The repair could not have been easier, and now the door works great.

Also, I ordered the part, and it arrived via FedEx the next day. That greatly exceeded my expectations!

I found and ordered a new latch from Partselect.com. After a few days I received the new part. I used a square drive screwdriver to remove the two screws that retained the broken latch, put the new latch in place, and reinserted the retaining screws. The job couldn't have been easier.
I couldn't be happier with the quality of the part or the speed of delivery and wouldn't hesitate to order from Partselect.com again.

Very easy, took off the lower front cover (two screws). Pump is on the right side up front. Took the two screws out that hold it down, unclamped the clamps inlet and outlet hoses. Put a towel under and around pump to catch water befor pulling pump out. Installed the new one in revers order.

I used a shop vac to remove the excess water which would not drain from the drum - this is key to not flooding your laundry room. I removed the 2 machine screws at the bottom of the front panel. The panel removes easily which exposes the pump at the front lower right of the washer. I disconnected the electrical connection on the pump. Using the shop vac I slowly removed the hose connectionns at the suction and discharge sides of the pump. Following the disconnect of the hoses screws hold the pump to the base of the washer. Upon removal of the old pump you re-install the new in the reverse order. One item to note is that I purchased 2 hose clamps to replace the spring loaded OEM clamps for the hoses - this greatly aids in reinstallation. Re-install the front cover and you are ready. Total time to repaire 30 minutes - very easy!

I followed the instalation instructions provided with new parts. Getting the mounting pins out was relatively easy However, the shock on the right, behind the pump, was a bit more difficult to remove than the one on the left. I took the rubber drain off the pump in order to get at the pin behind the pump. The new replacement shocks came with the plastic bushings inserted in the shocks in alternate directions. The original pins were all inserted into the bracket / shocks from the rear so when I installed the new shocks I reinserted one bushing on each shock so they we both oriented in the same direction. The instruction says to be sure the mounting pin is pressed from the side with the busing collar. It seemed strange the shocks came that way, with no mention of switching them. The most difficult part on the installation was pushing the pins back through the bracket and shock since there was no easy way to push the pins in from the rear. I used a large channel locks on the left side, but the right side was more difficult with all of the obstructions. I finally was able to push in place with my bare hands but was very difficult. Sorry to say the new shocks did not cure the vibration at all. I was very careful to make sure the machine is level. I'm not sure if there is a cure other than replacing the machine.

The door catch on the washer broke, and I had to epoxy the broken catch to finish my laundry. I looked for the part online, and PartSelect not only had the part but had a photo of it as well. I was very impressed with how quickly the part arrived, and within 15 minutes the repair was complete. Thanks for having the photos and getting the part to us so quickly.

Thank you for this web site! A friend suggested the problem being the drain pump, but I was not convinced as the washer would still drain on certain cycles. I took the chance and ordered the part after reading like stories on this website. For the repair: don't forget to lay towels down or have a shop vac ready to collect the water in the lines! The clamps were somewhat difficult to manage as the space is tight, but I did get them off with a medium size adjustable wrench. Getting them back on was a bit more difficult; I gave up on one and put a new o clamp on. It's metal, so I'm sure I would have been better off using the plastic-coated factory clamps.

no problemO top loader. open top, disco two electrical plugs and a small hose, then remove two screws that hold valve in place and remove. Re install in reverse order. Thanks for your support Eliot in Alaska!

First I tried to unscrew the two screws holding the latch with a phillips screwdriver. When it wanted to slip, I took a closer look at the screw heads and saw they were square drive. I got the proper tool and removed the screws, replaced the latch and replaced the screws in a few minutes.

First I pulled the front panel on the washer off, than I unplugged the wires to the pump, took the two screws out that hold the pump, took the two hose clamps off and took it out. To replace I did the reverse.

took off 2 screws and 2 hose clamps put in new part. Put srews and clamp back on less than ten minutes. total cost with shipping $62.00. repair person wanted $265.00.

Watched the video on website and followed what they said. Worked great.

The hardest part was moving the stacked washer/dryer from the alcove. I found the instruction videos from this site accurate and helpful.

After disconnecting the water/gas/electrical connections:
Shock Absorbers:
-Remove front service panel
-Squeeze lock tab on shock absorber pins and gently tap out of sockets
(inserting a small screw driver kept tab depressed when starting)
(lower left is pretty easy due to clear access)
(right side is more difficult)
-Optional: remove drain boot on lower right to improve access
(squeeze spring clamp and wiggle off of connection then work boot off of nipple)
(I did this step but in the end discovered it was not necessary, as I ended up taking the back panel off of the washer to replace the belt)
-Position new shock absorber in mounting brackets
-Manually extend shock absorbers to line up with pin holes
-Tap pins into place
(For lower right, the pin was captured by the circuit board enclosure. I was able to remove it but ended up removing the two mounting screws for the enclosure to reinstall the lower shock absorber pin)
-Reinstall drain boot & spring clamp
-Replace front service panel

Drive belt:
-Remove back panel of washer (multiple phillips head screws around perimeter)
-Remove old belt by pulling toward you and rotating drum
-Position new belt on motor pulley
-Position new belt on drum pulley
-Zip tie new belt to drum pulley to keep it engaged as you rotate the drum
(new belt will likely be much tighter than old belt)
-With belt installed on both pulleys, clip zip tie
-Rotate drum multiple times to ensure belt is centered and tracking properly
(if needed, the belt can be manipulated in/out while rotating drum to ensure engagement on drive (motor) pulley)
-Replace back panel
-Put unit back in service

the work is simple, its getting it done. The pins that hold the shocks in are very hard to get to and no room to swing a hammer. I had to use a C- clamp on the left upper in and it was no picnic. The washer in the video was a little different than mine.

(This is reply #2 of 2)
After I finally got all of the parts (at least the rear brackets and screws) I found that the panel only had one of two holes for the two horizontal screws.
After drilling a new hole in the left rear bracket position, I discovered that the 2 screws could not be threaded into the bracket pilot holes. Theyt froze up at the top of the taper in the threads. I had to increase the size of the hole 1/64" to get the screws in. There also is a trick to getting the bracket through the punched out hole in the panel- you must angle the bracket corner to corner then apply about 10# of preasure to the bracket to force it through the hole.
Other than that, the panel install went pretty well. Now I have to get the front brackets and springs and screws which are on backorder...