4071510 General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

So easy, even I was able to do it. Slide tabs back on defective basket and remove both sides, then slide the tabs onto new basket and place in dishwasher. All Done!

Water was leaking from under the GE dishwasher, but once we pulled it out, had apparently been going on for a little while. Turning the water off to the dishwasher made it stop, so it was happening even when the unit was not running, potentially indicating somewhere early in the path of the water to and into the machine.

Indeed, inspecting the water inlet vale showed a slow leak. Getting the replacement part was fine, and it fit the electrical, water inlet (existing 90-degree water inlet elbow), and water outlet connections just fine - but the original machine screws that held on the original water inlet valve did not work. It took a little research to figure out the new type of screw required, which was apparently a 10/16 Type AB, which seemed to be a less common type of sheet metal screw (with a point), as opposed to the original flat-ended machine screws. So, after ordering those separately (which were a bit expensive), it went together fine.

A note on the water inlet valve part just indicating the the threading on those parts has changed over time, so potentially ordering the screws to attach it might be worthwhile, would be good information to add about the water inlet valve.

flapper then bought the spring

Thought it might be check flapper valve on drain pump, so I replaced fairly easily, per instructions. When doing, I noticed the attached relay wires were not secure. When it was on the drain cycle one of the relay wires vibrated badly and loosened the connection enough to only work occasionaly. Would like to put new relay on the pump but they do not sell separately from the pump. (one assembly). I resecured connection and will wait till relay gives out and buy new assembly, but for now it's working perfectly!

Repaired the soap dispenser.

Turned off the power at the main box. Removed the six phillips screws and two bottom hex screws holding the front panel. Removed the two solenoid wires on the old dispenser (Label wire polarity). Removed the eight screws holding the old soap dispensor and took it out. Cleaned the area around the hole. Laid down a bead of silicon caulk around the hole edges. Placed the new dispenser in the hole and replaced the eight screws (do not over tighten). Replaced the two wires on the dispenser solenoid (check polarity). Replaced the front cover (Do not over tighten. Turned on the power and job complete.

Followed video and that part to install spring and door handle actuator was easy buy demo on video guy had hand in way where the outside door handle was inserted. I know what slot it went in but did not show how to insert in dishwasher. finally figured it out. But then led lights stopped working correctly so I need to buy some more parts when I figured out what I need.

Just like the video and replaced it

Watched the video, and followed the directions. Although my machine had some slight differences, the repair went pretty much per the video. Got all connections back where they belonged, cleaned up the insides a little while had the door parts separated, then buttoned it all back up, ran a cleaning solution thru empty washer, let it dry then started filling with dishes and ran the wash cycle the next day when full. All is well.

and figured that was the problem. After a call to a delightful young lady in your service department We concluded that these rollers were the only thing available. Dejected I went back to my project with the intent of removing the wheels and grinding them down BUT 1st I gave it one more try and after some careful alined--Presto they rolled into the 2 tracks. I snapped the end caps on tracks--Problems solved--Please note: if these parts were taken off of my Bill Please Recharge them to me.THANK YOU ALL (IT WORKS LIKED A NEW WASHER) RON TUCKER 302 449-0342

I removed the anchor screws at the top of the dishwasher, and the screws holding the bottom kickplate in place. I pulled out the dishwasher 8-10 inches to expose the cables where the plastic hinge arm links are installed.
On mine, there is a steel cable with a hook crimped on the end. The hinge arm link doesn't slide out of this crimped hook easily as-is, the opening is too small. I removed the old link pieces by breaking them, but I couldn't get the new hinge arm links installed without filing the opening of the hook to accept them more easily.
The demo installation video doesn't show this spring-cable-hook-hinge link configuration, so it was a little more involved than I expected. I would have packed my metal file if I had known this would be an issue. I replaced both sides while I was in there, and the remaining good one was pretty brittle. I was glad I took the time to do both. I had to file both sides to install the new links.

The dishrack rollers were easy to install.
The rack slide end caps from the factory were difficult to remove and reinstall without some pliers and elbow grease. The replacement part was much easier to install.

Used Phillips screwdriver to undo brackets that keep dishwasher in place. Pulled out dishwasher from underneath the counter. Placed hinge arm in spring, hooked spring onto clip, placed hinge arm in clip. Put back dishwasher under the counter and screwed in place. Took all of 15 minutes. Saved 185.00 for service call.

Removed inside of door, slide bottom seal on and put inside door back on. Job done!

Followed instructions on how-to video on website on how to remove and replace lower spray arm.

The replacement dishwasher basket easily fit in my dishwasher. Easy to order. Quick delivery. Highly recommended.