4071500 General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

The installation video that is on the website with the part is very helpful & easy to follow. The wires that attach to the heating element & the nuts that hold it in place are actually located a few inches off the ground so I didn't need to tip the machine over to pull them out & unscrew the nuts. All I had to do was unscrew the screws that hold the dishwasher in place under the counter next to the sink, pull it out & was able to reach the wires underneath it.
The actual repair took me less than 30 minutes, I marked it as 30-60 because during the somehow the water line going to the dishwasher had come loose from under the sink (not at the dishwasher) & because of this I had to stop midway to deal with some loose water & tighten things back up. I would recommend following the video, there really isn't much more to add that would be helpful.

Ordered drain pump kit (GE part # 325). When it came it looked different from the pictures in the manual and what was ordered. Thought I was going to have to retrofit pump. Looked at ordering a drain kit from another source, which I did. When that came it was exactly the same as the one I ordered from Part Select. I returned the other pump.
Looking at the parts diagram, I discovered the replacement pump (part # 325 ordered) was combined with part # 327 which is why it looked different. I went ahead with the replacement, pulling out the pump and the connecting tubing, part # 327. The replacement pump fit exactly in place, replacing the pump and tubing. I put the dishwashing machine back together and it works great.
Bench tested the old pump and it worked. It must have had a food ball caught in the impeller, inhibiting flow. Next time I'll check all the parts for grease and food balls before ordering new parts..

After I unscrewed it from the counter and took off the front panel I first went to the garage to turn off the power to the dishwasher. I then pulled it out a little bit at a time. I didn't want to take apart any hoses or unplug electrical wires from connectors if I didn't have to. I then looked underneath and noticed that only one pulley spring was off and the plastic piece was broken. So when I received it in the part in the mail I took of the plastic part from the pulley. I just reused the original wire pully. I reached back with the spring to hook it back on with some difficulty and then hooked the piece back on and it was done. I placed everything back and switched the power on and its good to go. Nice job to do myself and watch a Youtube video on how to do it.

changed the door gasket no tools,just pulled out the old,lined up the dot (printed on gasket)on the new and started at the top pushed in the new took five minute,the short bottom door seal required a phillips head screwdriver to remove the inside door screws(six screws) the two on the bottom are different they attach to the door hinge and are machine thread the other four are coarse thread.lifted off the panel slide off the old(pay attention to which way the curve goes) slide on the new replaced the panel put in the six screws.the job is done! the door will be tight to close but will be easier after a few uses.

Removed two upper rack rail end cap stops. Removed upper rack. Replaced four old upper rack rollers (wheels) and installed four new upper rack rollers. Replaced upper rack in correct position. Installed two new upper rack rail end cap stops. The new end caps were different from the old ones, and the new wheels had shorter retaining arms than the old ones. Once observing the differences, the new parts fit properly and perfectly.

Hired my neighbor, who is a plumber.

I took the old one off and replaced it with the new one, which fir perfectly.

See GE web site for repair instructions. Take out screws at top of door. Slide unit out there is a spring on each side of the door just look at the good one for details. Easy fix. About 30 minutes.

Squeeze the new link to the cable hook with pliers while locking the vise grip to the cable for easier handling. Then, using the vise grip on the cable, hook the other end of the link to the dishwasher door hook

Removed the stops at the end of the upper rack, removed the old rollers. Replaced with new rollers and installed the stops back in place. Very easy, finished in less than 15 minutes. Replacement rollers very much improved with design from the original rollers.

Followed the instructions that came with the my order

The repair was easy. Removed all the screws from the inside door panel, approx. 11. Watch out for that last screw as there isn't anything else holding the outside panel, inside panel and control panel together other than those screws. I then unplugged the old dispenser backed out another 6 screws and replaced the old dispenser with the new one. Put it all back together within about a half hour.

Had to replace the top rack in the dishwasher. Removing the top rack was a tricky. Have to push the tab out not in on the stopper ends of the rack. Unscrew the bolts on the water sprayer. Need to slide the sprayer instead of unclipping it. Real easy to do once it is realized. Should have taken 30 minutes if I knew this in advance

just slid the new rack into place

After removing the screws, the front of the dishwasher easily came off. I put 2 screws back in to hold the control panel in place. I did not want that to dangle while replacing the part. The part came off easily after removing the screws. Everything went together easy.