4071100 General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Put new basket in, threw old one away

took screws from inside door panel and replaced the cover taking care not to allow plunger and spring to pop out put panel in place and screwed down

Called repairman: announced that the drain pump was gone. Did not seem right. Went to the website. Found what I was looking for. 49% of the time it was a check-valve issue; only 26% of the time was the pump the problem. Took the unit from under the counter; got it on its side; removed the drain pump. Found my first check-valve, but thediagram showed a second lower one toward the sump. Having located both and purchased two valves and and the lower holder piece, I was ready to finish the job. Quarter-inch nut driver and a screw driver and the valves were in and the drain pump re-installed. Most difficult in my case was getting the dw back into its spot and lashed down! Thanks for the good guidance!

The installation video that is on the website with the part is very helpful & easy to follow. The wires that attach to the heating element & the nuts that hold it in place are actually located a few inches off the ground so I didn't need to tip the machine over to pull them out & unscrew the nuts. All I had to do was unscrew the screws that hold the dishwasher in place under the counter next to the sink, pull it out & was able to reach the wires underneath it.
The actual repair took me less than 30 minutes, I marked it as 30-60 because during the somehow the water line going to the dishwasher had come loose from under the sink (not at the dishwasher) & because of this I had to stop midway to deal with some loose water & tighten things back up. I would recommend following the video, there really isn't much more to add that would be helpful.

Ordered drain pump kit (GE part # 325). When it came it looked different from the pictures in the manual and what was ordered. Thought I was going to have to retrofit pump. Looked at ordering a drain kit from another source, which I did. When that came it was exactly the same as the one I ordered from Part Select. I returned the other pump.
Looking at the parts diagram, I discovered the replacement pump (part # 325 ordered) was combined with part # 327 which is why it looked different. I went ahead with the replacement, pulling out the pump and the connecting tubing, part # 327. The replacement pump fit exactly in place, replacing the pump and tubing. I put the dishwashing machine back together and it works great.
Bench tested the old pump and it worked. It must have had a food ball caught in the impeller, inhibiting flow. Next time I'll check all the parts for grease and food balls before ordering new parts..

After I unscrewed it from the counter and took off the front panel I first went to the garage to turn off the power to the dishwasher. I then pulled it out a little bit at a time. I didn't want to take apart any hoses or unplug electrical wires from connectors if I didn't have to. I then looked underneath and noticed that only one pulley spring was off and the plastic piece was broken. So when I received it in the part in the mail I took of the plastic part from the pulley. I just reused the original wire pully. I reached back with the spring to hook it back on with some difficulty and then hooked the piece back on and it was done. I placed everything back and switched the power on and its good to go. Nice job to do myself and watch a Youtube video on how to do it.

changed the door gasket no tools,just pulled out the old,lined up the dot (printed on gasket)on the new and started at the top pushed in the new took five minute,the short bottom door seal required a phillips head screwdriver to remove the inside door screws(six screws) the two on the bottom are different they attach to the door hinge and are machine thread the other four are coarse thread.lifted off the panel slide off the old(pay attention to which way the curve goes) slide on the new replaced the panel put in the six screws.the job is done! the door will be tight to close but will be easier after a few uses.

Removed two upper rack rail end cap stops. Removed upper rack. Replaced four old upper rack rollers (wheels) and installed four new upper rack rollers. Replaced upper rack in correct position. Installed two new upper rack rail end cap stops. The new end caps were different from the old ones, and the new wheels had shorter retaining arms than the old ones. Once observing the differences, the new parts fit properly and perfectly.

Hired my neighbor, who is a plumber.

I took the old one off and replaced it with the new one, which fir perfectly.

Squeeze the new link to the cable hook with pliers while locking the vise grip to the cable for easier handling. Then, using the vise grip on the cable, hook the other end of the link to the dishwasher door hook

Followed the instructions that came with the my order

See GE web site for repair instructions. Take out screws at top of door. Slide unit out there is a spring on each side of the door just look at the good one for details. Easy fix. About 30 minutes.

Installed new lower rack wheel kit

This repair was a snap. The parts, though not identical to the original, fit perfectly. I was able to snap both the Rack Slide Cap and the new wheel axle to the existing washer cage and the machine works great now.

Thanks for the quick delivery and great website!