40311 - Instructions

PartSelect's instruction video on replacing this drain pump makes this repair doable even for a first timer like me. In addition to following the video instructions, I found that using plastic bicycle tire levers to reinstall the band clamp around the bellows was easier than using a screwdriver and less likely to scratch or damage the area. Beginners might want to take photos when disassembling the washer for reference if needed during reassembly. My washer's innards weren't exactly like the one in the instruction video, and the photos gave me a way to double check as I put it back together.

Exactly as described by a previous reviewer. I pulled out the old rack, put in the new rack and just moved over the cutlery rack.

I first checked to make sure that there was not a clogged pipe. After making sure that was not the issue, I replaced the drain pump. It was VERY easy following this youtube video, step by step. The hardest part was the getting the ring (with a spring on it) back around the part by the door. I had someone help me stretch it, and hold it so that I could feed it back on. A tool to stretch the spring would have been helpful.

Hint on determining if the Main Conduit is the cause. Place a tapered flat piece of wood (wooden spatula) between the Main Conduit and rear of the dishwasher wall and remove any excess play.
Run the wash cycle and determine if the noise goes away or is reduced.

Removal and Replacement of the Main Conduit Assembly:
Opened the Dishwasher door and removed the lower and upper basket.
The upper basket required the two rubber gourmets on the front of the rail to be removed by inserting a flat bladed screwdriver between the top of white farthest tab towards the rear of the dishwasher of the rack slide end cap (PS2370502 – Item 652) and twist the screwdriver while gently pushing the top of the tab towards the rear of the dishwasher and gently pulling on the end cap (The rear tab needs to clear the upper rack slide).
Repeat this process on the other upper rack slide and remove the upper rack assembly.

Using a ¼ inch socket driver, remove the Main Conduit (PS651676 Item 585) screw located in the back of the Dishwasher wall and the screw from the upper spray arm (PS260547 Item 570) located on the roof of the unit.
Remover the lower Spray arm by gently pulling up and turning it counter clockwise.
Remove the fine filter hub nut (PS259078 item 454 ) by turning it counter clockwise and the fine filter (PS259068 item 452) The fine filter has a small tube going into the bottom of the dishwasher base that should be removed at the same time of the filter. Be sure to position it correctly when it is reassembled.
There is also a small stainless washer in the bottom of the fine filter housing. Take care not to loose it during the assembly and disassebly process

Remove the Main Conduit from the plastic assembly in the drain of the dishwasher by turning it counter clockwise. (Note, the new Main Conduit Assembly comes with this part pre assembled). Remove the same plastic piece from the new Main Conduit assembly by carefully lifting the clip on it.
Install the new piece back in the drain and tighten just prior to being pointed toward the back of the dishwasher.
Reassemble the Main Conduit to the drain piece and tighten it the remainder of the way and reassemble all parts in the reverse order they were removed.

Part was an exact match. Make sure to use plumber's tape on all threads. Had to really tighten fittings to prevent leaks. Screws are a little difficult to get to. Test for leaks first, before final installation.

Watched instructional video. Made it easy

The seal slides out to the side, but the diswasher had to be pulled out from the counter and the entire door had to be taken apart to do this because the hinge was in the way. In taking apart the door, we opened the front panel by taking out the screws along the sides and disconnected the computer connections. After loosening the hinge, we were able to slide the old seal out and the new seal in. When putting the door back together, it was difficult to reconnect the computer connections while holding up the door front, as these ribbon wires were quite short. We did get it back together and working except that the connection to the display light now doesn't work because it probably became disconnected as we put together the door. Also, the door now is not completely level when open making the bottom tray slide in. This is probably because we got the springs too tight. These things can be fixed, but will wait for another day.

We considered buying a new lower rack for the dishwasher which we were told was a new dishwasher when we took over the house. The wheels were constantly falling off when sliding out the tray. They wobbled as well. With the weight of dishes in the rack and malfunctioning wheels, it was a disaster! We found your site on the internet and instead of a new rack we decided to order a whole new set of 8 wheels and axle roller studs. Installation was easy. It's like having a new dishwasher! Tray rolls in/out effortlessly. Great solution for the prices, fast delivery. Everybody is happy! Thanks.

I followed the steps outlined on (several) web sites detailing the replacement process. Just Google " LG front load washer won't drain". A couple of small quirks cropped up that required some adaptations such as: I had to purchase an automotive hose clamp to reinstall the main tub drain hose to the pump manifold. I couldn't get the oem clamp back on. It kept slipping out to the jaws of my pliers and I don't own a pair of those clamp pliers that make the job easy. Also, the hex head/phillips screws used to attach the front panel to the frame were very tightly installed AND they had their heads rounded off! I didn't have the hand strength to make the phillips screwdriver loosen them so I used a pair of vise grips to carefully start the process and used the phillips to finish. Finally, the wire loop used to retain the big gasket that seals the front had door is tricky to reinstall. It took two people to get it right. All in all , the videos make the job pretty routine.

When I first tried to fix the handle I could not figure out where the spring went. I went back online and looked at the diagram of the dishwasher on this site and learned where it went. Once I knew where every piece went it only took me about 5 minutes to put it back in and another 5 minutes to screw the cover back on. I am a newer homeowner and want to be able to do minor fixes. This was my first one and was very happy that I was able to do it on my own.

I received my dishwasher as a hand me down, my Aunt never liked the way it cleaned. After it sitting for about 2 years i installed it in my house and found that it leaked all the time from where motor shaft went into the pump housing. After disassembling everything and scouring parts sites online, I found the parts, ordered them. 3 days later i had the parts, and the next day I had a fully functioning leak free dishwasher.

The gaskets arrived in a few days after my order. The tub seal was easy to change and tool only a few minutes with no tools. After I watched a video on the GE website I pulled out the old gasket, wiped out the slot, centered the new gasket at the top, pushed it in the slot to each corner.Then I pulled the end to the end of the track and pushed it in the full side from the bottom up. repeated on the other side.The lower gasket was harder and took about 40 minutes. I took eh door apart but did not need to it could be done with a mirror. Pull the old one out from one side. Don't be afraid of tearing it but get it all out. The new one will snap into the slot if you use a mirror to look in the door and see.

Unscrew supply tube and angle nut from old valve. Disconnect tube from valve. Install new valve. Obtain new crimp seal for water supply tube. Use Teflon tape. Reconnect water tube to valve.

1 - Remove 3 electrical connections
2 - Slide spring clamp back an inch or so on 1 hose. Pull hose off of old unit. Attach the same hose to new unit and reclamp.
3 - Repeat with other 2 hoses
4 - Reconnect electrical connections

Had a puddle on the floor under the washing machine. While I couldn't definitively confirm the source of the leak, I suspect it was the drain pump. As such, I replaced the drain pump and the drain hoses (one of those 'while you're in there' things). The toughest part of the whole job was moving the washer away from the wall. I was able to leave the water hoses connected and just unplugged the electrical cord. Watched the YouTube video regarding the replacement and it was exactly what I needed. Just take your time and make sure everything fits together without force. In addition to the pump and the hoses, I had some drum shocks that I had previously purchased, but never installed. Replaced them at the same time. Everything fit together as expected and the washer works great. No leaks and reduced vibration. Good for another 15 years - hopefully.