3RLEQ8033SW0 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions
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Old lint filter was broken
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Earl from Santa Ana, CA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
8 of 14 people
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Noisy
Disconnect power supply, remove power cord from dryer, remove dryer vent tube from dryer, remove 2 Philips screws from power connection on dryer, remove nuts from back of dryer, remove back of dryer. Locate idler pulley at bottom of unit at the rear of the motor, pull pulley back to loosen belt and remove from pulley, remove pulley retainer clip, remove pulley and rear washer from shaft and inspect shaft for wear or rust. replace washer and pulley (no specific direction to replace them, washer first then pulley). Reverse above procedure to reassemble. This is for a front load dryer, a top load dryer is different.
Parts Used:
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Robert from HAGERSTOWN, MD
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
5 of 5 people
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Dryer was Noisy
I simply followed the video and apart from a couple of areas that were not relevant to my model, everything went exactly as illustrated. The video is excellent and made the repair so easy.
The only issue I experienced was being short two rollers, as the parts diagram did not clearly show that there were two rollers in the back and two in the front.
A kit, with its own part number should be prepared that would show 4 rollers and belt as the recommended required parts.
It was an easy fix, I just did half the install a second time.
The only issue I experienced was being short two rollers, as the parts diagram did not clearly show that there were two rollers in the back and two in the front.
A kit, with its own part number should be prepared that would show 4 rollers and belt as the recommended required parts.
It was an easy fix, I just did half the install a second time.
Parts Used:
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Doug from HARRODSBURG, KY
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
6 of 8 people
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Lint filter seal worn out
The part wasn’t for my machine. Unfortunaly I was not able to repair it. I was sent stripe of foam with an adhesive strip on the back. I needed a felt strip.
Parts Used:
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Dennis from PALM BCH GDNS, FL
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
5 of 5 people
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Screen on the hot air vent disintegrated
It is odd that this part needed replacement but I am in an area near the Atlantic ocean in a vacation house which is vacant most of the year. The exhaust vent probably brings excessive moisture down to the dryer in the basement. The screen you can see at the inside back of the tumbler (where the heated air enters) rotten out, pieces fell inside and there was danger of something falling in and catching fire. I found no useful source for information (including YouTube) as this part is most easily replaced from the rear of the dryer and the available info was about repairing the heating element, the circuit board, or the exhaust venting pieces which is done from the front.
The bottom line is that the back removes easily. You should:
1. unplug and remove the exhaust shoot
2. remove the top per YouTube or other source
3. take off the back panel over the electrical connections and unscrew the ground; tuck it inside. Don't undo any electrical connections except the ground
4. take off the screws holding the back on (8-9, one is hidden above the exhaust vent) and pull it out of the way; you then have compete access to the "DUCT-AIR" part
4. undo the clip that holds the vent tube (from the heating element) to the part
5. remove the screws that hold the part to the inside back (3?) and push it out of the way
6. remove the clips and remove the old part
7. reassemble in reverse order
I'm over 70 so I took lots of time and breaks but was still done in under two hours. The 2 clips holding the heater element tube to the part were badly rusted and should have been replaced but I made do with the old ones.
The bottom line is that the back removes easily. You should:
1. unplug and remove the exhaust shoot
2. remove the top per YouTube or other source
3. take off the back panel over the electrical connections and unscrew the ground; tuck it inside. Don't undo any electrical connections except the ground
4. take off the screws holding the back on (8-9, one is hidden above the exhaust vent) and pull it out of the way; you then have compete access to the "DUCT-AIR" part
4. undo the clip that holds the vent tube (from the heating element) to the part
5. remove the screws that hold the part to the inside back (3?) and push it out of the way
6. remove the clips and remove the old part
7. reassemble in reverse order
I'm over 70 so I took lots of time and breaks but was still done in under two hours. The 2 clips holding the heater element tube to the part were badly rusted and should have been replaced but I made do with the old ones.
Parts Used:
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Thomas from Edgartown, MA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
5 of 5 people
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Dryer made squeaking noise, then more of a rumbling noise.
Checked this site for most likely needed parts and ordered. Located full repair manual inside unit after removing lid. Followed instructions in manual to take apart and remove the drum; took pictures at each removal step and used pill organizer to keep screws in correct order and quantity. The metal cylinder in the center of the idler pulley had ground away so the idler pulley with bracket was replaced. (There was a lot of metal dust that had to be cleaned.) One of the rollers did not turn smoothly so that was also replaced. After putting drum back in, reversed the steps to reassemble and referred to photos to make sure did in correct order and did not forget anything.
Parts Used:
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JAMES from NORTH OLMSTED, OH
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Pliers, Socket set, Wrench set
5 of 6 people
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Dryer was squealing
Disconnected Power cord, removed vent pipe, removed back panel, had to slide top cover off to remove additional screw holding back on. Went down to where the Idler Pulley was, removed old piece by depressing on the spring loaded actuator and slid it off the belt and all. Replaced same as removal.
Parts Used:
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Kevin from VALDOSTA, GA
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
4 of 4 people
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My dryer was squeaking with an occasional thump
Watched videos on line on how to repair. Replaced all four Drum Rollers, Belt and Idler Pulley, cleaned out inside of unit.
Parts Used:
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Michael from BOILING SPGS, PA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Wrench set
4 of 4 people
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Dryer drum turned hard because rollers were worn
Remove top, front and drum. Top is removed by sliding a putty knife under the front corners and pushing the tabs back. Front is held with screws. Disconnect two electrical connectors. Rollers are easily accessible and changed.
Parts Used:
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Paul from STONE CREEK, OH
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers
4 of 4 people
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Sqeeking noise fron old worn belt and rollers
Watched instructions, Ordered the kit and repair was fairly easy until the time to line up the cover over the fan wheel. That was difficult part. Would be best to have two people at this point to hold it and align the screw holes. Otherwise its was a fairly easy operation.
Parts Used:
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Randy from HUNTSVILLE, AL
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
4 of 4 people
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Annoying loud metal to metal screeching noise.
Took the front part of the dryer out, released tension on the idler pulley, took the drum out, and remove the old drum seal. Make sure you remove the old adhesive with sandpaper or wire brush. Put the new adhesive on the seal, not on the drum. Adhesive is very runny. Seal may need to be stretched to fit the drum. Set the seal on the drum, let sit a few minutes. Put everything back together.
Parts Used:
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Ricardo from ARBUCKLE, CA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
4 of 4 people
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Taking 90 minutes + to dry one load
Removed the back of the dryer about 8 screws. Removed the Thermostat 250 F and replaced with new. Dries a load of clothes in one cycle on medium. Not bad for a 16 dollar part. I am a computer tech and I am used to taking computers a part but I think most people that are in anyway mechanically inclined and can look at a diagram could do this and save yourself a lot of money.
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Bryan from newington, CT
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Socket set
5 of 7 people
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Broken Drum Belt
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Garry from Garland, TX
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
4 of 4 people
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drier would not heat up
i took off the back of the drier and with a screw driver removed the 2 screws and put the new part on
Parts Used:
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PATRICK from PALOS PARK, AL
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
5 of 7 people
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Dryer ran but without heat.
Turned off my circuit breaker first. Removed back panel with a 1/4 nut driver. Replaced the dryer fuse first. Very easy but did not fix the problem. Watched how to videos to narrow down the parts I might need. Purchased the thermal cut off kit. Installed the High limit thermostat first. Tested the dryer, no dice. Finally installed the Thermal cutoff. BAM!! I have heat. Since this is an older dryer I did need to use some WD40 to loosen some of the connections. Total cost of parts including tax and quick delivery was $48.30. Fantastic. My old man told me it was unfixable. He was wrong. I WIN. This site is a great teaching site. Thank you!
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barbara from SOUTHAMPTON, PA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
4 of 4 people
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