36361 - Instructions

I replaced the drum bearing slides and also the main front drum bearing. First, disconnect the electric. Then I removed the two screws inside the door that attach the top cover, removed the top cover, removed two screws that attach the front cover, lift up the front cover and pivot it to the left leaving the wiring attached, removed the front bearing assembly by pulling it out at the top and then up, installed the new front bearing ring and snap it into place, installed the drum bearing slides, reinstalled the front cover, reinstalled the top cover, and tested the drum by turning it by hand first and then under power. The whole operation took less than 15 minutes....

Pull the two scews to release the top of the cabinet. Pull the two screws to release the face of the cabinet and tilt out.
Take the old slide out and install the new ones.
Put it back together.
No more squeeks
My wife thinks I'm a genius...

My GE GDS18SBPBLSS is now 21 years old (they do not make them like they used to) so I took extra time to not break any of the brittle old plastics. For this replacement you will only need a Phillips head screwdriver.

Parts list:
2 x PS284959 Fan Motor Grommet
1 x PS2359960 Evaporator Fan Motor Assembly

• The first thing you want to do is to unplug the unit refrigerator to prevent any shorts or the fan from starting while you are handling it.
• The evaporator motor is in the refrigerator section, so leave the freezer door shut to preserve the temperature.
• Open the refrigerator door as much as possible and take out the two vegetable/fruit drawers. If your door is right next to a wall and you cannot open it more than 90 degrees, take the drawer furthest from the door hinge first. Then take out the remaining drawer and gently shimmy the center plastic rail guide to allow you to take it out diagonally.
• The front lip of the floor of the refrigerator is clipped in, so pull the plastic trim forward to remove it. If it does not move, lift the center of the plastic trim piece in front of the screw a bit to convince it loose, but it prying it upwards is not advisable because the ends are under the side walls.
• Once the trim piece is removed, remove the Phillips head screw.
• Pull the plastic floor of the refrigerator towards the front and then up to remove it.
• A large foam block secured down with tape needs to be removed next. Once the tape is loosened, lift the foam out carefully with vapor barrier attached under it. Watch for the two foam pieces at the back wall on each side. If they fall off and drop, find them in the freezer later.
• The fan assembly and bracket will be in view, and my suggestion is to take a photo. This way, you know how it should look when it comes time to reassemble everything.
• To the left rear is a small foam block that is taped down. Removing that will reveal the connector clip for the fan motor’s power line that you squeeze the sides to disconnect. Pull the motor wire out of the foam guide.
• Lift the motor bracket assembly out – it is not attached to anything and sits on the foam block.
• Carefully pull the fan blade off by pulling it straight along the motor shaft.
• Undo the rear motor bracket by unscrewing the two Phillips head screws – the right rear motor bracket screw holds the wire guide in. When undone, take the guide off the wire.
• Once the rear bracket is removed, discard the two motor grommets and the motor.
• Put in the new motor with the new motor grommets into the bracket and screw in the left rear screw.
• Clip on the wire guide on to the new motor wiring and then finish mounting the motor with the right rear screw with the wire guide in place.
• Clean off the fan blade thoroughly before pressing into the shaft. Once on, spin the fan to see if it rotates smoothly and easily. Note: Avoid pressing the fan blade too far down as you do not want it to contact the grommet.
• Place the assembly back into the foam block – use the photo from before as a guide if needed.
• Route the motor cable through the foam groove and clip it into the power connector.
• Plug the refrigerator back in to see if the fan spins and to see that there are no issues. If there are no problems, unplug the unit again and continue the reassembly.
• Place the small foam block back into the rear left to cover the connector area.
• While making sure the vapor barrier is positioned correctly above the coils, put the foam block back into place.
• Clean the plastic floor of the refrigerator and then slide it into place, making sure the back and side are flush. Use the screw hole to align the floor properly and then screw the Phillips head screw back in.
• Clean the front trim piece and then slide it back into place.
• Put the drawers back in.
• Plug the refrigerator back in and leave the door closed for a while so the unit cools the internal temperature back down.

Opened dryer door and removed two screws that held front of top panel on. Lifted top panel off and removed two screws that held front panel to side panels. Tipped front panel forward and replaced all four slides. Cleaned everything off and put back together. Works great again. Thanks for this site and for others that have done these repairs before and posted their stories.

Follow YouTube "how to change dryer's belt" some video is very clear.

Freezer worked great but no cooling to refrigerator section. Replaced with part ordered. Phillips head screw driver is all that is needed. Very easy to replace, it's plug and play. New part powered up neither the freezer nor the refrigerator. Went back to old part and atleast freezer still works. New part was no good from factory. The replacement part# matched the original. I attempted to contact PartsSelect but there was no response back.

Easy repair, but did take a little longer than anticipated due to the extra cleaning that I did while the dryer was disassembled (highly recommend). First, unplug the power cord. Then, open the door, and locate the two screws in the upper corners, and remove. This will allow you to remove the top cover. Be careful and work the top panel up and down to loosen the control panel tabs, and set aside top panel. Next, remove the two screws located near the top on the inside of the front panel. Removing these two screws will allow you to lean the front panel forward, lift up, releasing the tabs holding the bottom of the panel. Be careful when you pull the front panel from the dryer as you will need to lift the drum off of the front bearing which is attached to the front panel as it is removed. You will also need to use your needle nose pliers to remove the wires prior to setting the panel aside. The wires are straight forward and power the light at the top, and the safety door switch. I always take a picture with my phone's camera just to validate when I re-connect them. Reaching underneath the drum you will be able to feel the belt and belt tensioner pulley. With both hands under the drum, use one hand to push the pulley to the right, releasing tension on the belt. Move the belt out of the groove, and let it hang freely. Now from the top of the drum, bump the drum to loosen, and remove from the cabinet. It is a tight fit, so you will need to spread the sides slightly in order to remove the drum. Next, remove the 3 screws holding the heat diffuser in the rear of the drum in order to remove the rear drum bearing. (Tip: It would be nice to have a helper hold the new drum bearing in place when starting the screws, and it also helped to tighten each a little at a time to keep the new bearing flat as it was drawn up next to the drum.) Tighten the screws holding the new bearing in place. Next, remove the 4 small screws holding the heating element housing to the rear of the dryer. (Tip: Rather than disconnecting the wires, I used a bent coat hanger to hold the housing while I removed the bearing retainer and clip from the rear of the housing.) Remove the 4 screws holding the bearing retainer and clip, and replace with you new part, paying close attention to the clip's position, and tighten. Replace the housing to the rear of the dryer. (Tip: Now is a good time to familiarize yourself with the belt and tensioner pulley for reassembly. Also, it may be a good idea to look at your belt, and replace as needed.) Next, reinstall the drum and insert the new bearing shaft into the new bearing housing. Using both hands again, reach underneath the drum, locate the tensioner pulley, and belt. Push the tensioner pulley over to the right, and move belt over the pulley on the motor, and behind the tensioner pulley. The belt should be tight. If not, inspect to ensure that the belt is over the motor pulley, and the tensioner pulley. Next step is to reinstall the front panel. I also spent the extra money and replaced the front drum bearing, and slides. Please note that the green slides are on top, and the white slides are on the bottom. Lift the panel over the tabs, lean forward while lifting the tub, resting the tub on the front bearing. Reinstall two screws in the upper corners, and tighten the front panel back in place. Now is a good time to turn the drum to ensure that the belt is in place, and that the drum turns correctly. (Tip: If your dryer is equipped with a light, you may also want to replace the bulb in the front panel (if needed) prior to attaching the front panel.) Reinstall the top panel by aligning the tabs in the control panel with the top panel, being careful not to bend the tabs. Next, open the front door and use the 2 long screws to reattach the top panel to the front panel. Plug in power cord.

I order the parts needed to replace the slides, the felt ,and the bearing on a Sunday afternoon. The parts arrived on Tuesday even though I used regular shipping. I followed the instructions posted by another customer. It was extremely easy and only took me about fifteen minutes. My only problem was that I needed 2 each of the front slide and the rear slide, and I unknowingly only ordered 1 of each. I order the other 2 on Tuesday via regular shipping and they arrived on Wed. AMAZING!!!!

I found instructions on the web about how to do this repair, so I ordered the part with confidence. But the instructions simply said "pull out the old switchlight". That was actually somewhat difficult as the clip on the side intended to hold the part in was stubborn. I eventually used a utility to slice off the clip. From that point, it was just a matter of plugging in the new switchlight , which was very simple.

Unplugged power. removed 2 screws to take of top cover. once inside removed 2 more screws to slide front panel of. I first replaced slides on front panel. I then lift drum and installed new belt. Only trick is to make sure you wrap belt around tension arm pully properly. Basically a very easy job

When we first heard the screeching i thought right away that it was the belt. we ordered a new one and after i replaced it the dryer was still just as loud. I wished i went here first. Right away i found others with the same problem, did the same repair which was just taking 2 screws out, sliding the top and front panel off(watch for the electric wire connected to the panel) and replace a couple of plastic slides. now it is better than ever.

I watched the Parts Select video with Steve and he showed me how to do the repair. Took the top cover off and front door panel, I did not undo the wiring on the door switch. Removed the old top bearing (it snaps in and out) put the new one in placed the glide bearing put everything back together and no more noise. It worked.

had a great video to follow, made it easy to install.

First I watched the repair video on partselect.com and that really helped. It was really easy to replace the slides. I even ordered a new top bearing, old one was busted, and replaced it. Thank you for your help.

Removed top panel giving access to drum and screws that hold front panel (door). Removed to screws to be able to remove front panel but be careful wires are short not giving you much room to remove panel. Removed plastic Drum Bearing and replaced with New one. Installed slides and put back together.