36361 - Instructions

1st - removed the two screws inside the front door panel. They are somewhat hidden up underneath so you may have to look for them. 2nd - I removed the top of the dryer cabinet by lifting it out of the clips holding it in place. 3rd - removed the two screws (one on each side) in the o=uppper corner of where the side panels connect the front panel. These are about 3/4" phillips head screws. Then the front panel could be moved to one side of the dry. 4th - remove the drum by lifting it up and out the open top area. 5th - add the new belt to the dryer tub (rib side towards the drum) and replace dryer tub to its original position. 6th - reaching in underneath the tub you need to pull the ideler pulley toward the center of the cabinet while laying the belt on the "outer side" of the ideler pulley and at the same time fitting the belt over the small pulley located on the motor. Once that is done, you reassemble in reverse order and should be good to go.

Parts were shipped quickly, packaged correctly, and were in original GM packages - very reassuring. BTW, your customer service is excellent.
Reviewed YouTube videos.
Patience is required, take your time, take photos of the wires and also make a written wiring chart. This was the flaw in my planning. Reference the schematics from PartsSelect to number the controls. Do NOT use masking tape to identify the wires as they will have all stuck together by the time you go to reinstall them.
Most difficult process was removing and identifying the numerous wires to the back panel. They have push connectors, but some were very difficult to remove. The people doing the "how to" videos no doubt had them partially released and that made it look easy. Examine the connectors before removing to identify how they are captured by the connector. A paper clip "tool" I made enabled me to release some of the capture lugs, but some were so tight, I had to use small needle-nose pliers to open up the lug to release the wire on the connector.
When reinstalling, re-tighten those connectors.
Replacing the parts was much easier than the wiring disconnect/reconnect process. I'm happy to report that replacing the rear bearing and the front 2 green and 2 white shim/bearings immediately and completely solved my problem. For about $150, I restored my dryer to "like-new" functionality and got a lot of satisfaction from doing it. The project took about 4 hours, which could have been reduced to 2 hours had I know about the clip release and wiring identification process. Also, make sure you thoroughly vacuum out your unit while it is disassembled. Good luck!!!

The easiest way we found to install the speed sensor was to detach the motor from the washer by removing 2 hex bolts...one on the left and one on the right. This was much easier than other suggestions of removing the impeller itself and working in such a tight space. when placing the sensor on, it mounts to the back side of the motor in designated bracket area; the green face of the sensor must point downward and towards the impeller.
when remounting the motor, a second set of hands is helpful to reapply the belt and install the bolts.

Took the few screws out replaced the part then put it back together.

While the switch did last for 9 years, the design is poor due to the failure mode. The failure should be to fail off or not able to turn on the lights which would be inconvenient but would not warm the refrigerator contents. Arcing at the contacts eventually caused the switch to "weld" closed. It is not obvious that this is occurring so it took some time to recognize why the temp inside the ref was high while the freezer was OK. Replacing the switch was easy once it was recognized as the problem. All that was required to replace the switch was to remove the screws holding a fiber cover and then pulling off the aluminum cap which covered the switches. Unplug the switch an squeeze the keeper on the switch to release it and pull down. Pop the replacement switch in place and plug the wires harness back in. All in all it took much less time to replace than it has to write this up. T Pope

Read the other posts - they are very good. On my particular dryer it took two Slide WH and two Slide Dryer Drum Side PS266785.

Most time spent was vaccuming out and removing a softball size ball of lint clogging the dryer - now it will actually dry clothes!

Part select delivery is really fantastic (even though it took me three orders to get it right!).

I followed the instruction of the first posting for this category and it worked perfectly...thanks for the nice detail...

- Upon receipt from PartSelect, placed new slides in Drum Bearing (this does not come together or as a kit - must order 4 slides AND Bearing separately for this dryer model)
- Loosened Top panel screws (2) from inside door area
- Slid top of dryer off - PAY attention to HOW the top comes out (tabs at the back and slots on the sides) or replacing the top could prove frustrating)
- Loosened Front panel screws (2) and GENTLY leaned the panel forward to access Drum Bearing - no need to REMOVE the front panel but be aware of the switch wires when leaning and the weight of the door if you did not remove that
- Removed old Drum Bearing
- Vacuumend interior of dryer cabinet (especially area leading down to vent)
- Snapped new Drum Bearing into place
- Re-secured Front panel paying attention to drum position to make sure everything still rotated properly and freely
- Reset Top panel - align back tabs first, gently pull forward just a bit until Top slips down over side tabs, then slide back into place and re-secure

Worked like a charm - took about 20 minutes...

The existing light switch was very hard to remove. I ended up having to grab it with a pair of pliers and pull it out. Once it was out, it was very easy to put in the replacement and it seems to be working fine.

Took the top and front end of the dryer off. Took the old slider spacers off and installed the new ones. I replaced all four of them even though only two was bad. While I had the dryer open I decided to use my shop vac to clean up the lint that had accumulated there. Replaced the front and the lid plugged it up, hit the start no noise just like new.

Washer/dryer belongs to a friend. Originally, the problem was that the dryer wouldn’t heat, so I opened it up, and removed the drum thinking it might be the heating element. It wasn’t, and the ohm reading confirmed this. It turned out to be a burnt wire connector to the element ( unknown to me, and found out later, was that the start switch had remained continuously in the down position because the switch was pressed too far down and thus remained locked “on” in place under the surrounding cabinet frame. This, in my opinion, caused for a continual call for heat and thus burnt the wire.)

I replaced the burnt wire/connector and reassembled. Now the dryer would heat, but would only run if the start button was continually depressed. Let go of the button, and the dryer stopped.

Repair pros suggested a new start switch. I bought a new start switch along with a new interlock switch (it basically shuts off dryer if belt breaks because lack of a belt releases pressure on the pulley that keeps switch depressed.) Apparently they can go bad, too.

It turns out neither of these switches were bad. Instead, upon further inspection, after the first installation of the drum belt, the L-shaped bracket which holds the pulley for belt tension became dislocated from its correct position and was not allowing for the depression of the interlock switch, causing the dryer to “read” broken belt, and thus, not run.

I loosened the motor bracket to allow placing the bracket in the correct position. Reassembled and all was good.
PSA - almost every sheet metal edge is razor sharp.
In the process of returning parts. Now in the process of returning parts.

Many have already described the repair, and it was exactly as they have described. Remove the two screws inside the top of the opening which hold down the top of the dryer. Pull off the top, and look inside to remove the two small screws that attach the front of the dryer. As the front separates, the front comes out of the drum and the drum bearing will come into view. Pop out the drum bearing ~ there are no screws ~ it simply snaps in place. (I suggest removing the lightbulb first, or you'll be buying one of those also. )

Replace the new drum bearing and snap it into place. Then replace the four drum slides. Replacing the drum slides is a quick, one minute task. Mine were completely worn away ~ no wonder it was squealing so badly. Then reverse the process to put it all back together. Total job was maybe 15 minutes long. Easy as could be and saved a ton of money, I'm sure. Sounds like new now!

Piece of advice that I could not find anywhere prior to ordering ~ you need FOUR drum slides to replace them all. Not knowing, I originally only bought two, so I had to order two more and add them later. Also, I probably could have gotten away without replacing the drum bearing ~ the slides were all that was really worn.

Thanks for the quick turnaround on the orders and the advice on line. Easy, easy, easy!

I just pressed the latch with my thumb, the latch went in, and voila....job done. Thank you

Unplugged the appliance for safety. Removed two 1/4" screws that held the assembly in place. Carefully removed the wire guard that retains the glass shield. Unscrewed old light bulb and replaced with new part. Reversed the steps after cleaning glass cover.

There are 2 switches that should be pressed in when you move the handle to lock door, the switches usually go bad with time. Just take the six screws off on the inside of door, then remove screw on the underneath part of handle. The switches are located on the top part under a piece of 1 inch metal plate held in by a screw, remove that and you'll see the 2 switches, test the button on each one to see if it goes in and out, you'll hear the click to. Just unplug bottom first then the top if you need to replace the top one. Thats it.

First I called to get help with the right part and they told me I needed the pus-to-start-switch. It came in and I called my handyman Ed to install it. I am happy with your service. I dont install but just got the part in.