2661532413 Kenmore Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

The video I watched said to remove front panel, control panel, and top panel. After I removed the front panel, I was able to remove the lid switch and splice the wires together and reinsert in the mounting without removing the other panels. Secured with wire tie and put front panel back in place. This did not, however fix the problem.

Ensure washer drum is empty of water before attempting repair. Disconnect the power to the appliance. Remove the front washer panel (a metal putty knife if needed to unlock the two upper tabs which releases the panel). Locate the existing drain pump at the bottom of the unit. Disconnect the two wires from the drain pump motor (one orange, one black/white). A pair of pliers and a gentle pull should do it. Using a small ratchet and socket, loosen and remove the two bolts that secure the drain pump to the bottom panel of the washer. Using a pair of pliers, squeeze the factory hose clamp on the large drain tube that connects the pump to the drum and remove the hose from the pump, being careful to capture any residual water from the drum. A towel is helpful to absorb the water. Repeat for the smaller discharge drain tube located on the side of the pump. Once both tubes are disconnected, remove the old pump. Install the new pump and reconnect everything in reverse order. Connect the small drain tube to the side of the pump. Connect the large drain tube from the drum. Ensure the clamps are properly secured. Insert and hand-tighten the two bolts that secure the pump to the bottom panel of the washer, making sure the bolts are snug but being careful not to overtighten. Reconnect the two wires to the motor. Restore power to the appliance. Run a quick wash cycle to ensure pump is working correctly and check for any water leaks. When satisfied, reinstall and secure the front washer panel.

TOOK OFF TOP AND FRONT PANEL REACHED IN UNDER TUBE AND REMOVED FROM BELT TENSIONER HARDEST PART IS PUTTING BACK ON TENSIONER TAKES TWO HANDS LAYING ON YOUR BELLY

Replaced the rear drum bearing. Not doing it before ,it took about 1 1/2 hrs. Problem was fixed.

Took the dryer apart to get to the rear bearing. Took the bearing assembly out, kept the e-ring from the old bearing shaft, replaced the bearing kit, took the o-ring off the new shaft and replaced it with the e-ring, then reassembled the unit. Make sure to place a nail or long screw into into the rear of the drum, so that you can realign bearing on the drum. It is easier with two people when reassembling.

Used online instructions. Worked well.

Pulled the drum an found spade clip burned on wire. Hi limit Thermostat crumbled/ broke while pulling spade clip so I trimmed back the wire, cleaned the spade clip and soldered the wire back on. Isolated the other thermostats in the system and tested for resistance. Reassembled dryer.

as per your instructions. The copy of the directions was very hard to read

loosened two hose clamps and four screws to replace the anti siphon valve.

My husband and I had taken apart this dryer before, so the second time was a lot easier. The first time we took it apart it took 2-3 frustrating hours. So, if it's your first time, plan for longer.

1. Before we started anything we unplugged the dryer and disconnected the vent.
2. We removed the top and loosened the contol panel on top.
3. We removed the front. Be careful of the wires. You can label them, or just remember where they go.
4. Lay the dryer down on it's back. This make's it easier to remove the drum.
5. Remove the drum, but gently slide the belt off first. Don't stretch the belt removing it.
6. Once the drum was removed, we removed the screws from the inside of the drum.
7. We didn't need to use the entire kit, just the part that sits in the center and spins...kinda looks like a top. (Yes, that's my technical description)
8. We screwed in the new "top" and put the dryer back together.

Really the only part I had to help with (this time)was putting the drum back in to make sure it sat where it was supposed to. It made a big difference that it was laying on it's back...we didn't do that the first time, which was part of our frustration.

Putting the belt back on is a little tricky too. We had instructions still for our dryer to refer to put it back on. If you don't have yours, just google or bing for the instructions. There's website's out there with great pictures.

Un plug the dryer. Gather phillip, flat head and torix screw drivers. Remove the rear of the dryer to get the spec sheet with the appropriate part number. Next called for part. Belt installation requires removal of front and top of dryer in order to slide belt over the drum. Getting to all the fastners requires tilting the dryer on its back. Clean out excess lint from dryer interior and duct work. Slide drive belt over drum and use some masking tape to hold it in position. Reassemble dyer. Return dryer to upright position and put the belt on the pully and tensioner from rear access port. Remove tape. Replace access panel. Reattach vent duct work. Plug in. There are 5-6 different size screws holding everything together...you may want to use masking tape to label where each type of screw goes. All totaled it took about an hour and cost less that $25. Well worth the effort.

This was easy and took maybe a half-hour. The harder part was pulling the front panel off (up) to access the insides. Simply snipped the wire to the old sensor and spliced the new wire and inserted the new sensor. Worked perfectly and saved me $400? on a new washer! (Cover panel is slightly bent, did not re-snap in, so it's loose; I don't care about the looks, so I will screw metal screws using a hinge to close it.)

By watching your video which was very helpful as I never made this repair before. All worked out fine. Since then I have ordered other parts., (drum bearing kit, door slides and a new belt.) The video on replacing the drum kit is very helpful too. One other fact is prices beat all other sites I looked and when I'm done the dryer will be "rebuilt" I recommend your parts to everyone., they are great quality.

Well, the intall would have been great except for the fact that I needed another part. If your belt breaks there is a reason for it. Make sure you check all the parts that work with the belt. Their was a pully the was defective and also need to be replaces. I think it would be a good idea to put a little note on the page for the Belt Drive to let people know that if you are replaceing the belt you might want to check the Idler Pully for it too might need to be replaces. I'm not an expert and if that was on the page for the Belt Drive I might have look at the pully before I ordered and I would have ordered the part along with the Belt Drive. As it was had to wait another 4 day to get my dryer fixed. I'm very happy the Parts Select has all my parts and they pretty good at getting them out to me in a good amount of time when I need them.

Watched a video online on how to replace the belt, it pretty much told me what to look for to get the drum out. Followed the instructions sent with the bearing kit and removed the old bearing assembly. Ran the screws supplied with the kit into the bearing assembly before I installed it. This was a tip I got off PartsSelect website. Running the screws in first is a must! Had my wife hold the assembly in place while I ran the screws in. That part of the job is the only time you need an extra set of hands. Put the dryer back together and it works like a quiet champ now.