2490 - Instructions

knobs fit perfectly

Removed everything from inside freezer compartment (food and shelves) Removed inside backpanel that covered the coils. At the top of the coils is where the thermostat was attached. Removed old one and installed new. Has been working since.

Part selects cataglog for parts selection was very easy to use and the online service and delivery was great.
When I got the part, it was not apparent on how to remove the auger so that I could insert the new connector. There were about about 8 visible screws, with star drive heads that I fortunately had a screwdriver that fit, and I could not tell if I had to remove all of them or only a couple.
I ended up removing all, but still could not separate the dispenser portion which held the front of the auger from the back of the ice bin. I finally figured out that the dispenser door trip lever had to be disconnected and I almost lost it when I removed the metal clip that attached it to the outside of the ice bin when the spring loaded lever tried to unwind. I managed to hold it in place, separate the dispenser holding the auger from the rest of the ice bin and replace the connector. I them got the pieces back in place and was able to refasten the spring loaded lever and then replace the screws.
If the spring loaded lever had unloaded, it would have been tricky to try to replicate the amount of turns (load) on the spring tension.

I TURNED OFF THE POWER TO THE GRILL FIRST. Then Removed the knob on the top face plate and then removed the 2 self tapping screws at the high end and this allowed the face plate to be pushed forward. And allowed access to remove the switch I removed the wires one at a time and replaced them on the new switch. All done in 20 minutes.

I have replaced the circuit board, the condenser fan motor but the unit still will not feeze correctly. The bottom of the unit freezes but just barely cools the rest of the freezer and ice box. Have you got any other advice that might help. This is a side by side unit. What else could be the problem. It seems that the fan is not working correctly or it is stuck in defrost mode. The coils where the fan is seem to be icing up but it will not let the fan work. THanks for your help, David Wilson

First I removed the back cover then removed 3 nuts holding the motor. Next I removed the two wires. Next I attached new connectors to the wires and installed the new motor and everything worked perfect!

Service and shipping were fantastic! I would definitely use Partselect again!

First, I read the instructions that came with the replacement ice maker, which I found confusing because they were apparently written to be installed in some other make of refrigerator. However, after removing the white plastic cover on the new unit and insuring that it was identical to the one that came with the refrigerator, I removed the old unit by first, removing the bottom screw that held the unit to the side of the refrigerator. Then, I loosened the two top mounting screws. slid the unit up and pulled out and away from the side of the refrigerator. Then, holding the unit in my left hand, I pinched the two plastic tongs on either side of the wiring harness where it attached to the outlet at the back of the refrigerator, took the ice maker out of the freezer compartment and set it aside. Then I located the water regulator screw on the right side of the new ice maker and turned it one complete turn clockwise to reduce the amount of water that would fill the unit. After reinstalling the white plastic cover on the new ice maker, I saw that the wiring harness that came with it would not fit my refrigerator's outlet. So I removed the wiring harness from the old ice maker and installed it on the new one. Then I connected it to the outlet at the back of the refrigerator, slid the ice maker over the two top mounting screws and then pulled down to seat the screws. Next, I used a small torpedo level to level the ice maker both vertically and horizontally. This required placing several flat washers behind the metal mounting bracket at the bottom of the ice maker and the refrigerator wall. Once I had leveled the new ice maker, I tightened all three screws and shut replaced the ice receiver tray. Works fine.

Shut off the breaker! Removed down draft grill. Removed two phillips head screws and lifited switch plate out. Removed switches (2) and made wiring diagram as I went. Looked up Jenn-Air on line and ordered parts. Lost wirihng diagram in the process but still had two switches wired . Replaced all four switches. Everything working great. However while I was waiting on switches to arrive, somebody at the house was fooling with the switch plate and broke the on red indicater lens so now I'm ordering that. Oh well....

The lids are fastened to the underside of the unit by rivets....3 to each lid.
I used a cordless drill and small drill bit to drill through the rivets to remove the old lids and remains of the rivets.
The new lids are easily fastened back using a rivet gun ( about $20 in Lowes) using small 1/8th aluminum rivets.
No real problems.
1 thing to note is that the drill bit will pass through the old rivet by about 1/4 inch before it comes up against the upper level of the BBQ floor so do not drill any deeper.The aluminum rivets are easy to drill through and you will easily feel when the rivet is drilled through.

I removed the one nut screw holding the Ice bucket shelf then removed the Ice Auger Container. Then I lifed the Part containing the Drive Motor. I removed the electrical connection which just plugs into the fridge. Once the Drive motor and container was out of the fridge I removed 4 screws and the Drive motor was out. I disconnected 3 electrical connectors and connected them to the new drive motor. Then replaced the motor and connected the 4 screws. I then installed the yolk on the drive shaft and then put the drive motor container back in the fridge and reconnected the electrical. Installed the nut screw and I was done.

FIRST OPENED THE CIRCUIT BREAKER. Snipped the three wires, capped the white one with the ceramic insulating nut and crimped the spade connectors to the other two. Then CAREFULLY filed one side of the rectangular hole in the escutcheon until iwas wide enough to accept the new swich. Drew the two wires up through the hole, attached them to the switch and pushed the switch into the hole until it snapped in place. Reseated the escutcheon and reconnected the two screws. Closed the circuit breaker, pressed the switch and VOILA, on went the fan. Be careful not to let filings fall into the electrical stuff. Need crimping tool & file.

I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model

I first had to purchase the replacement motor which was quoted from a high of $236 to a low at graingers of$100. 00. The counterman at graingers removed the blower fan from the motor for me with a special long handled allen key. I then degreased and cleaned the blower fan. I had to cut off the screws on the motor and replace the 3 motor isolators and the urethane foam around the motor. I had to thread the 3 wires from the new motor through the bx cable from the old motor and reattach the fan to the motor. Anyone wanting more detailed informatioin may contact me at:mablume@optonline. Net

Replaced refrigerator cooling control. No luck. Replaced freezer cooling control. No luck. Coils were icing up. Unplugged frig and allowed coils to defrost. After more poking around, found that condenser fan was not spinning. Touch it and it'd start. That was definitely in need of replacement. Replacement was easy. Refrigerator is now running as it should.

blower wheel was caked with dried grease clumps; replaced blower wheel, urethan foam and 3 motor isolators; blower/fan no longer vibrating cooktop.