2048778481 Kenmore Upright Vacuum - Instructions

Unfortunately my washer cabinet did not come off as in the video so I had to do repair from underneath. The rest of the repair worked exactly like the video showed. I had a couple of small, sturdy wood boxes about 9" high which I used to brace the washer after tipping it backwards a bit (and unplugging it too). My wife acted as a spotter to be extra safe. The only two things that required the hook tool and mirror were: 1) Working from the bottom my hands were at an awkward angle so I couldn't pop the retainer clips off the pump, but a hook tool (like a screwdriver with a hooked end) popped them off easily, and 2) The other issue was once the new pump was in place I could not locate the slot for the top retainer clip until I could look at it with the telescoping handle mirror, and then I was able to put the clip in by feel. Extremely easy repair, especially with the guidance from the video. Thanks for video help! WH

First unplug washer and turn water off (both hot and cold) You only need to pull washer out away from wall about 1 1/2 feet. Take a putty knife and slide under the front corner of the control panel ( both sides one at a time) lift up corner as you slide putty knife under the corner. After both sides are released on the control panel slide control panel forward( about an inch) to release rear of panel and flip panel over the top. Unplug the lid safety switch then with a screw driver unsnap the cabinet straps one on both sides that were under the control panel. Put screw driver into the spring strap end closest to you and push screw driver back which will release the straps( one on each side). Next tilt the cabinet toward from the back( about 6 ") and lift up about 2 " the cabinet can now be removed. Undue the two hoses on the water pump that is located at the bottom of the washer in the front ( make sure you catch the water from the hoses in a small pan). Undue the two spring clips that hold the pump on. Pull pump straight out (about 1 ") discard old pump and install new one in reverse order. When reinstalling the cabinet there are two stubs on the bottom bracket on the washer that have to put into the slots in the lower front corners of the cabinet ( the hardest part of the whole project is putting the cabinet back on, the trick is what I described above with the slots in the lower front corners. Good luck it very easy to do.

Of course I tried to determine where the leak was from. There wasn't a solid flow of water and was confined to the front. Pulled the washer out and laid it down. Noticed that a metal clip had a little corrosion on it and followed it back to the water pump seal. Removed two hoses and unclipped the pump. That's it. No screws or nuts. Looks like it was expected to fail and was easy to replace. It did last for 20 years though.

First I watched the repair video. Then I pulled the power plug and shut the water off. I didn't have all the room available to remove the front and sides of the machine in my narrow hallway so I just slid it away from the wall and leaned it back against the wall and had plenty of room to do the repair lying on my side. $28.00 part and in 20 minutes all done. This is the second time this site saved me time and mucho money. Thank you. Leon B. from Massachusetts

very well the part was easy to install and the part was easy to find on the diagram furnished by parts select

Remove four screws securing control panel from the rear and tilt control panel forward. Unplug wiring harness from door limit switch. Unsnap and remove two S-clamps securing enclosure to back panel. Tilt enclosure slightly forward and remove it from wash machine. Disconnect water hoses and clips securing water pump and remove water pump. Install in reverse order. Caution: inspect water hoses closely. I had a rotten pump intake hose and found out the hard way (water everywhere).

I Removed hose clamps and 2 pump clamps. I took the old pump(had a small hole burned in it) off and replaced it with the new pump. I replaced the 2 pump clamps and the hose clamps and it was ready to go.

Unplugged the washing machine. Removed the two philipps screws holding the control panel. Swung it up , disconnected interlock connector, and pried the two clips. Removed the top and cabinet assembly to have easy access to the leaking pump.
Disconnected the two hoses connected to the pump. Used the plier to loosen the hose clamps. Removed the two retainers securing the pump. Removed the old and damaged pump and replaced with the new one. Reinstalled the retainers back on. Reconnected the hoses and clamps. Put the top and cabinet assembly back on. Snapped back the clips and reconnected the interlock connector. Screwed the control panel assembly to the cabinet. Done. Ran the washing machine to check for leaks. Found none.

Just removed the old pump with a pair pliers and snapped the new one on. It was a snap

I shut off the water supply hoses and then disconnected them and also disconnected the power supply cord--next I laid the washer on its back being sure to place a block near the water supply valve so the weight of the washer does not rest on the water valve--next I disconnected the inlet and outlet hoses from the pump--next pop off the two retainer clips on the pump and then remove the pump by sliding off of the motor shaft-----to re- assemble just reverse the procedure and you are done--it is a very easy fix.

Using the part select website, I discovered that 64% of the time, replacing the water pump will fix the drain problem so I ordered that part. I laid the washer on it's back. And was able to unclip the water hoses, detach the pump and install the new one. The parts select website has great instructional videos to help but in this case, the video recommended removing the outer skin from the washer which I found unnecessary.

I followed the you tube instructions. The hardest part was realigning the washer housing on the lower frame.

Used online instructions from this site

Isolated problem to front section of washer by elevating and adding water. Once I identified the pump as leaking (it was pretty obvious:>)I used a screwdriver to release the snaps that hold the pump to the drive motor. After sliding the pump off of the drive motor I used the pliers I release the clamps on the two hoses. Next I logged on to Partselest.com and ordered a replacement. The item arrived in two days. I placed the pump on the motor first then connected the hoses. It was much easier to slide the hose clamps to the proper position with the pump held secure on the motor.

I propped the unit on its side, then I removed the intake and discharge hose with pliers (remember to have a bucket handy for the extra water in the hoses.)
Secondly, there are two clips on the top and bottom of the pump which hold the unit snug against the motor. These simply pop off with your hand or a screwdriver (be careful to save these!) Now the pump should slide off the drive shaft easily but most likely it will not due rusting of the shaft. A pry bar or large screwdriver and some elbow grease will get the pump to slide off.
Installation is the reverse except you will have to sand off the rust on the shaft. Sand paper will do but I used a Dremel type grinder (die grinder) which made easy work of removing the rust. Finally, sliding the new pump in is remarkably easy.
Installation of the new pump should take less than 10 minutes with a clean driveshaft.