20213 (1988) Kenmore Range - Instructions

Lifted out and unplugged grill. Plugged in and put in place new module. I tested it right then and it worked great!

Simply unpluged the old cartridges and plugged in the new ones, it could not have been easier. My 18 year old cooktop looks brand new. My old cartridges were black and the new ones are stainless, but, the look is good, since most new appliances are now stainless. The best part is that it cost less than half of what a new cooktop would have cost plus all of the mess that would have been made tearing out the old one and installing a new one. Thanks PartSelect, A Very Satisfied Customer.

needed hammer to help loose screws .pulled out and replaced leement

unplugged old one and installed new griddle and burners. very easy and less than 30 seconds to complete.

I had a service guy come in and he told me the repair would be $550.00. I asked for a part list and did it myself. You guys saved me hundreds of dollars.

Ordered the leveling bolts, very fast shipping, parts correct as shown. Purchased a condo by the shore, frige had no levelers, they went in smoothly & was done in no time.
Steve

I removed the stove top cartridge from the stove top and plugged in the new one. No tools were needed. It was very easy.

Installing the new switch was EASY. However, removing the old switch was very difficult due to the nuts holding the switch in place being designed as clamps not threaded screws and nuts.

Cut power!
Removed old switch.Only problem was new switch had shifted the four 'spade' connectiors on back so when I was done fan and light switch was crossed.

Everything PartSelect had on their site was perfectly correct.

REALLY appreciated the way PartsSelect handled everything, I will be back for further help on other things.

After accessing the switch and removing the wires(four wires as the rocker switch operates both fan and oven light) I attached the wires to the new switch. However , I was unable to mount the switch in place as I could not get the spring - clip type of fasteners to slip on.
Fortunately, there was space to drill a hole on each side of the switch and I used brass machine screws
and nuts to hold the switch. The round-head screw
tops show on top of the stove, but at least the new switch is in place and operating.

Regrettably I have been unable to replace the bake element since the two screws are completely stuck. This doesn't appear to be a common problem.

Bought a pair for needed door hinges for replacement. Found a DIY video on You Tube showing technique to replace. Door removal was a bit awkward but hinge replacement and door reinstallation was as detailed in video. Could not nor would not have tackled this project without video. Premium quality parts sent and received within days of ordering. Wife happy therefore so am I.

Took parts off from under the range, and replaced the motor. Then put the unit back under the stove and connected the vent.

Everything went fine. No trouble.

Although only one side hinge had snapped, I replaced both sides with new oven door hinges. Followed the website video installation directions and all went well; the new hinges work perfectly.

Important: 1) ALWAYS REMOVE ALL POWER FROM THE STOVE. 2) Do not "preassemble" the ceramic recepticle and wire kit. The wires are nearly impossible to remove from the receptacle once inserted. The wire colors have changed and are not the same color as your old wiring. 3) All the fasteners are sheet metal screws, different sizes (note where they are used) and are easly stripped if tighted too hard. Either unplug the stove or open the main circuit breaker to the stove. Take out the right-hand burner cartridge and place it aside. remove the center screw and metal strip from the old receptacle (you will reuse this item). Loosen the control panel from the front of the stove by opening the oven door and remove the four screws holding the control panel in place (Screws are located on the underside of the control panel). The panel slides down about 1/4 inch and tilts forward exposing all the control wiring. Ues a hex-headed driver or large screw driver and remove the drain plug from the drain pan. Use care as there is a small gasket under the drain plug. Remove the four screws holding the burner's pan to the stainless steel stove top. Move the wire bundles aside and GENTLY pull the burner pan half-way out of the stove (it is a tight fit but do not use force. Remove the screws and strap holding the old receptacle from the pan. Withdraw the pan from the stove. (good time to clean the pan and drain plug) With the old receptacle now exposed, assemple the new receptacle and wire harness wire for wire carfully replacing each lead. The new wire harness is inserted into the new receptacle thru the top of the receptacle and will lock in place within the new receptacle. The blades on the end of the wires must point toward the slots in the receptacle. The receptacle wires will be pointing down. Trace each wire and be certain the correct wire is switched out with the proper lug on the control knobs within the stove (needle nose plyers will help but do not force the connections). Gently push the pan halfway back into the stove and attach the new receptacle to the pan with the small metal strap across the back of the receptacle with screws. Push the pan all the way back into the stove and re-attach the pan to the underside of the stove top with sheet metal screws. Re-install the drain plug and drain tube. Tilt the control panel, slide the panel back up into the front of the stove and reattach the control panel with sheet metal screws. Re-install the small metal clip into the front of the receptacle (one end of the clip slides under the stove's stainless top frame). Reenergize. Reset the clock. You're done.