The filter is made of metal and is intended for use with ranges and cooktops. As per the manufacturer, this filter may be 1/2" slimmer than the original, but will still function the same.
This surface burner switch, also known as an infinite switch, is a key electrical component that controls the heat output of your stovetop burners. When you turn the control knob, the switch adjusts t...
This is a multi-use and multi-appliance screw. It can be used on a microwave, refrigerator, range/oven, air conditioner, dehumidifier, washer, or dryer. The measurements of this screw are 8 x 1/2 inch...
This hinge is located on each side of the oven door. The hinges control the rate that the oven door opens and closes, and allows the door to stay open at an angle. This hinge can be used on either the...
This electric coil element cartridge is designed for use with compatible cooktops and ranges, offering a reliable replacement for worn or malfunctioning modules. Housed in durable stainless steel, the...
Restore your range’s cooking capability with this burner module assembly, which replaces two surface burners in a single, compact unit. The black housing contains the heating elements and is built for...
This stove cartridge assembly, also known as a cooktop module, is a manufacturer-approved replacement part for your stove. It is black in color and comes complete with burner elements. Make sure to sh...
This electric oven bake element with screw in wire terminals is 19 inches wide. It has a terminal depth of three inches and a total element length of nineteen inches. This element is intended for use ...
Most of the repair was obvious as I took the blower apart before ordering the parts. Unfortunately the new motor was significantly larger than the original motor so I had to um. Adjust the position of some of the other parts to fit it in. There was a sheet metal flange that was installed on the other side of the blower from the motor which was designed to focus the air flow into the blower. I used a hammer to ajust the angle of flange so it no longer extended as far into the blower housing.
It works just fine although its a bit louder than the old motor was.
1. Killed power and removed the regulator's knob, noted the position of the old control. 2. Took off the cover for the center vent and loosened the two screw holding the housing in place--the screws didn't have to come out completely as it is a U-shaped friction hold. 3. Unscrewed the two screws holding the old control switch in place--lifted the housing enough to get at the old switch and carefully pulled it loose--it was a front burner so the control switch was about as far back as it could be but still wasn't that hard to get at. 4. Turned the new switch to orient the wire connectors, then, using a needle-nose pliers, removed each friction connector, one at a time, and fitted them on the new switch (note: one of the wires fitted best if it went under as opposed to around the base of the new switch). 5. Replaced the control back through the housing and screwed it in place, making sure the orientation of the control matched the way it looked originally. 6. Slide the housing back over the two screws and tightened, replace vent. 7. Replaced the knob and turned on the power.
(The above took me about twice as long to write as it did to make the repair and I write professionally but am not a professional electrician.)
Also, I bought a second control switch because, given the age of the unit, I'm sure another one will go. The second one will assure that it won't happen :-).
