1985818201 Kenmore Freezer - Instructions

My brother is a handyman. The part was delivered very quickly. The instructions were very easy to read and after an hour, voila the oven works perfectly!

Terrified that the washer water value would blow due to the noise... Diagnosed the problem, ordered the part and it took only 10 minutes to fix. The hardest part was moving the washer in the confined space, which required moving the driver out and sliding the washer at a 45° angle in order to reach the access panel. Once access gained it was straight forward. Step 1 removed fill hoses from supply. Backed the valve assembly out; detached water hose from value assembly with nut driver; detached wires'; value released; added new value and reverse process. Checked for leaks, reassembled fill hoses with new washers (stainless steel hose), ran cycle, checked for leaks, replaced washer in original position Need commend the video producer and repair person in the video. The narrative gave me the confidence that, Yes, I can do this.

First you turn off the main water supply or turn off the valves at the wall behind the washer unit. Second you disconnect the hot and cold water lines going to the washer unit valve. You then use 1/4 closed end wrench to remove one screw. Then you use a flat head screw driver to remove the two screws holding the valve in place. At this point use a 1/4 socket drive to loosen the clamp that is holding the hose that feeds water to the valve. Remove the hose. Then you disconnect the four wires and re-connect the wires to the new valve. Re-install the hose to the valve. Then you are ready to put it all back together.

un hook electric and shut off water:
had to remove top of washer
remove two screws holding valve in place
un hook water line and elec. wires from valve
reverse to put new valve on
Billy Myers
Alamogordo,NM 88310

Very easy, video helped tremendously

Shut off the electricity (pulled thee plug). Working from the rear of the washer. Removed water hoses with Stillson wrench. Removed two self tapping screws with nut driver to get to the assembly. Slipped off the wires lugs one at a time from thee old assembly and slipped them onto the new valve assembly in the same location. Installed the new assembly. Attached the water hoses to the new inlet valves. Note: My washer had the hot and cold valves identified on the washer. The replacement valve assembly was marked hot and cold (H, C.). which was the reverse of the marking on the washing machine. Go by the marking on the washing machine.

Took off the top plate at the bottom of the oven, and the flame spreader, removed 2 screws on the igniter, pulled out the broiler tray and unplugged it. Took longer to get off the floor than it did to replace the part.

Removed grates and bottom plate two screws holding it. Turn oven light on and unwire the wire. Unscrewed the two screws and replace. This took my husband about ten min. And for him he says that this was a walk in the park. He says if he can do it anyone can. This was one of the easy honey dews. Good luck with yours. Nola & keith

Instead of buying a new range my son said he could replace the part so I looked your company up on internet and had it shipped. Three days later I was cooking with gas again! Thanks!

Just like the example I removed the oven base, removed the two screws holding the igniter. Pulled out the wires opened the connector, plugged in the new igniter put everything back and turned on the oven. The oven now lights better than it did when new. And it holds a steady temp.

Super easy. Turn off gas and unplug. Lift door off hinges, just pull up on it. Take racks out. Lift floor of oven out. You may need to release clips in the back of the oven, but mine were not engaged. Remove wing nut from shield plate and lift plate off. Using nutcracker, or Phillips screwdriver, remove screws holding the igniter to the brace plate. Carefully pull wires from the back of the oven wall. Carefully unplug the old part. Carefully plug in the new part. Feed wires back into the oven wall and install fiberglass padding. Replace screws, shield plate, wing nut, oven floor, oven racks and door. Door just slides back onto hinges. Watch the video on parts elect. Couldn't have been easier. Saved $500 on replacing my oven. $40 for DIY repair. Awesome!!!

After disconnecting the power and removing the input hose connections I was able to remove the valve assembly through the back panel. I then removed the wires from the valve and disconnected the outlet hose. I removed the old valve and replaced it with the new one. Then reattached the outlet hose and 4 wires to the new valve. The assembly then was reinserted into to the back panel and screwed into place. Reconnect the input hoses and plug it in and it's ready to be tested for leaks & used. (I had no leaks, BTW. A little silicone grease on the fittings made reassembly go easier but it's not needed. )

Replaced the igniter by removing 2 screws, pulling on the wires to pull the connector in from the back thru the oval opening, screwing in the the new element, reconnecting the wires, pushing the connector back and that did it.

Remove the door... it just pulls up and out... set the release tabs so you can remove the bottom plate .. pull out broiler drawer... unscrew the 2 screws on the igniter ..let that hang... remove the cover for the termination.. and unplug the old igniter... then reverse everything to put back together..

The repair was real easy, other than the old bolts which just turned in the sockets when trying to get them out. It might be a good idea to provide two nuts and bolts to negate this problem. I would not mind paying a dollar or two extra for two bolts and nuts. Other than that, the instructions were clear. Product arrived on time and I would absolutely use your services again. Oven is back to working great! Thank you!