1985818201 Kenmore Freezer - Instructions

Watched your video and followed your instructions and it was very simple.We bought our maytag washer in 1988 next year it will be 30 years old we raised 3 children and for $21 and your video I hope to it last another 30 years

I watched a repair video, unplugged the electric,turned off the gas valve and disconnected the gas line. removed the shelves and burner tray. removed 2 screws and unplugged the igniter. Replaced the igniter and put tray and racks in.Hooked up gas and plugged in the electrical plug. Job done....

Checked igniter it glowed but never got hot enough to open gas valve. I switched igniter from broiler to oven and oven burner lit. Switched igniter back to broiler as wires were shorter than the oven igniter. Ordered part from number and picture comparison. It took about 20 minutes to get it installed and all stove parts back together.

Super easy. Turn off gas and unplug. Lift door off hinges, just pull up on it. Take racks out. Lift floor of oven out. You may need to release clips in the back of the oven, but mine were not engaged. Remove wing nut from shield plate and lift plate off. Using nutcracker, or Phillips screwdriver, remove screws holding the igniter to the brace plate. Carefully pull wires from the back of the oven wall. Carefully unplug the old part. Carefully plug in the new part. Feed wires back into the oven wall and install fiberglass padding. Replace screws, shield plate, wing nut, oven floor, oven racks and door. Door just slides back onto hinges. Watch the video on parts elect. Couldn't have been easier. Saved $500 on replacing my oven. $40 for DIY repair. Awesome!!!

Remove oven door, remove burner bar, replace ignitor, splice wires together because the old electrical connectors had melted together. Shipping was fast and extra wire, insulation and ceramic wire nuts were included.

Terrified that the washer water value would blow due to the noise... Diagnosed the problem, ordered the part and it took only 10 minutes to fix. The hardest part was moving the washer in the confined space, which required moving the driver out and sliding the washer at a 45° angle in order to reach the access panel. Once access gained it was straight forward. Step 1 removed fill hoses from supply. Backed the valve assembly out; detached water hose from value assembly with nut driver; detached wires'; value released; added new value and reverse process. Checked for leaks, reassembled fill hoses with new washers (stainless steel hose), ran cycle, checked for leaks, replaced washer in original position Need commend the video producer and repair person in the video. The narrative gave me the confidence that, Yes, I can do this.

1. remove oven door 2. remove racks and oven floor 3. remove oven burner 4. unhook igniter 5. install new igniter 6. tuck wiring back in as reinstalling burner 7. put in the insulation supplied in kit 8. install floor and racks. 9. install door. 10. test system 11. oven came on. SUCCESS

Followed video that came with part.

Accessed igniter removed 2screws holding it.unpluged igniter installed new one.

Shut off the electricity (pulled thee plug). Working from the rear of the washer. Removed water hoses with Stillson wrench. Removed two self tapping screws with nut driver to get to the assembly. Slipped off the wires lugs one at a time from thee old assembly and slipped them onto the new valve assembly in the same location. Installed the new assembly. Attached the water hoses to the new inlet valves. Note: My washer had the hot and cold valves identified on the washer. The replacement valve assembly was marked hot and cold (H, C.). which was the reverse of the marking on the washing machine. Go by the marking on the washing machine.

Very easy, video helped tremendously

I watched your 'how to' video, then repeated the procedure on my own machine. The repair went pretty much like the video. The new valve corrected the problem, and in fact, fills the washer faster than the old valve. I also replaced the water supply hoses, as one started to leak after I jiggled it around during the repair. Very satisfied with the this sites experience.

Replaced the igniter by removing 2 screws, pulling on the wires to pull the connector in from the back thru the oval opening, screwing in the the new element, reconnecting the wires, pushing the connector back and that did it.

I noticed that the ignitor would glow but the stove wouldn't light - I got the model number of the stove and googled the maytag model number. Came upon your website and realized that 94% of the time the problem was the amps were not enough to light the stove. I looked at all of the stories on how easy it was to fix. I ordered the part and received it within 3 days. I opened the door part way and lifted it straight up to remove it. I pulled out the bottom broiler plate by grabbing the back on pulling up. I undscrewed the wing nut of the flame bar and had easy access to the igniter. I removed the two nuts from the old igniter. Unplugged the igniter from the easy access door from the back and plugged in the new igniter. Replaced the access door and attached the igniter with the two nuts. Put the flame bar back on, put the broiler plate back on, put the door back on, plugged in the stove turned it on and success. It was so easy. I know in our area I would have paid near $200 for a service technician to come out and do what I did in approx. 20 Minutes and $50 for the part. Thank you so much for you website to help us not so talented appliance repair homeowners.

took oven tray out and loosened igniter and replace same works great.