1985818101 Kenmore Freezer - Instructions

Pushed machine out from wall; disconnected the supply hoses (after closing the valves at the wall); unplugged electrical cord; removed two wires from the solenoid connectors; removed two screws that secure valve assembly to backplane of machine. Installation of new assembly was the opposite procedure. We have private well, and silt was plugging the cold water side of valve. So, I also installed a large sediment filter behind the washer, so this will never happen again.

Did the same as others. Loosened the three screws diconnected the wires and put them on the new valve. Disconnected fill hose and connected to new valve. 10-15 minutes. Replaced panel and tested new part. perfect, My repair was a little longer, I vaccumed up all the dust bunnies I could find before moving washer back. Good for another 35 years, I hope. Thanks for the help and experiences.

Solved theprobel m by noticiing the HOT water filled the tub and it began to run when it was full. Figured out it was the solenoid valve. Ordered a new one. Simple to install and then it ran just fiine.

Disconnected the hot/cold water hoses. Removed screw that holds water valve in place. Removed two screws that hold valve to metal plate. Disconnected wire terminals from old valve and installed on new valve on the same spades. Disconnected water discharge line by loosing screw that hold line on valve, reattach to new valve. Removed old valve from plate, installed new one with the two screws to plate, then put in place and put in screw that hold valve in back of washer. Connected hot/cold hoses and fired it up and noisy water eliminated. About 30 minutes and back in service which made the wife happy that her washer was quite again. Thanks!

First I remove the hot & cold water hoses using an adjustable wrench. I then unscrew the panel that holds the water inlet valve using a nut driver. I then carefully pull out the panel, moving the harness wires out of the way, so that I can loosen the clamp holding the inside rubber tube. I remove the old water inlet valve from the panel by removing the 2 screws and then put the new one in. I then reconnect the rubber tube and tighten the clamp. I then screw back the panel and reconnect the hot & cold water hoses. It took me about 20 mins to complete the job.

First turned off water and unplugged washer. Removed hoses and then removed bracket. The new part needed the bracket from the old mixer which was no problem - 3 screws. Removed electrical plugs from old mixer-placed on new one.No problems - worked like new. Thanks for your prompt shipment and the good illustrations of the parts when I was searching.. Also, half the price of local parts houses and it would still have to be ordered.

followed simple directions... no brainer.
just be careful - shut off water and unlug first.

First thing unpluged power cord from wall outlet, removed hot and cold water supply hoses.Then took out srew holding metal plate ,pulled plate out exposing valve, marked wires and diconnected.Pulled clamp and hose from valve.Pulled out valve and reinstalled new.Reconnected wires and hose.Installed screw to hold in place, reconnected hot and cold supply hoses.Plug unit back in. Job done.Washer works like new.

First check that the screens are not plugged. There are fine screens in the mixing valve and at times you will find them in either end of the inlet hoses. Not a hard job if you can get to the back of the machine, just a few small screws, swap the wires to the new part and swap the outlet hose from the valve and screw it back together. Wife will think you are a wiz kid.

Removed hoses and inlet valve from washer, replaced inlet valve by attaching the electrical connectors, reattached new water lines, returned inlet valve to its place in rear of washer. Checked for leaks, washed a load of clothes, everything worked properly.

Disconnected the electric plug and removed the water hoses from the washer. Took off the old water inlet valve under a plate on the washer and hooked in the new one. As we dismantled each section of the valve hook-up we connected that area of the new valve to be sure we got it connected correctly.

Shut water off and unplugged. Used channel locks to remove hoses. Used nut driver to remove mounting plate. Disconnected electrical connections to solenoids. Broke one. Had to replace. Used nut driver to loosen fill hose. Rusty and broke. Cut hose. Used new clamp to secure fill hose to fill solenoids. Stripped and crimped on new connector and replaced electrical connections as they were removed. Reinstalled hoses and plugged in. Tested A-OK.

The most important part of my repair was watching the video that was sent to me with my order confirmation. After I viewed it, the rest was easy. The only hard part was moving the washer away from the wall!

I ordered the part. Watched the video and did the repair. I removed the cover plate on the washer, removing the screws. I then, removed the broken water inlet valve and replaced it with the new one. I placed the cover plate back onto the rear of the washer and "VOILE", it was done. I am a divorced mother of three, who has never attempted to do any type of home repairs, however, the way PartSelect has set up the website, it made it easy to determine what part I needed and provided me with a video which gave me step by step instructions on how to repair it. I even posted my victory on Facebook! Thanks PartSelect.

Maytag made this easy. The water value was mounted to a plate on the back of the washer removed one screw, pulled the plate from the washer, removed the valve, reconnected the electrical connections and outlet hose, re inserted the plate, attached with screw and tested. 30 minutes tops and I hwve never done this before. Thanks to partsselect and others for recomenning the correct repair. Others had suggestjng the timer device ($180 +) for the parts. OUCH !!!!!