1949 - Instructions

I only really needed the lip seal that fits in the faucet adapter. After much research I discovered that the seal was simply not available. I tried to substitute a standard O-ring of the correct size, but it was too thick and did not allow the adapter to snap on to the faucet.

I purchased the complete hose assembly from Partselect.com, and received it quickly. I used a small screwdriver to remove the seal from the new hose assembly, and installed it in my existing hose assembly. The seal was a perfect match with the old one, it fit perfectly, and no more leaks.

Be careful not to damage the new seal when you are removing it. Also, be advised that if you choose to replace the entire hose assembly that you may need to replace the areator on your faucet, in this case the new hose would not fit on the existing areator, but fortunately the seal was a perfect match.

The Retaining Nut of my Upper Spray Arm fell off and was stripped. I was thinking I was going to have to get a new dishwasher because mine is pretty old. I found Partselect.com and plugged in my model number and it gave me all the parts. It cost me less than $10 with shipping and it saved me about $450.

I have a new faucet so I remove the screen then I used an extender ring put on your adapter an got the washer to run.

Repair went well,took about five to ten minutes to disconnect the power from the fridge removed the defective switch installed the new one ,reconnected the power,,,and Let there be light and there was light!

Add the new one it was slightly different than the original but it worked out perfect.

Referencing the info/schematics you have on your website, I unscrewed/unattached top-front panel (carefully), from behind the panel you have to detach the wires (2) from the switch, pushed "in" the switch to remove, put in new switch and attach wires to test BEFORE remounting panel. Tada!! Thank you PartSelect! You saved me at least $80...would have been at least $100 to have a repair person come to the house!

removed back cover, removed fan motor and replaced with new one. connected new power wires. worked right away

I took a chance and ordered a switch that is next to the top of the door. looked for how to remove it easily done in ten minutes works fine last long time.

I removed four screws and thus the front plate at the bottom of the dishwasher. I then removed the old spring, using a long nose pliers and, still using the pliers, replaced it with the new one. The enclosed instructions were helpful as was the previous letter written by someone with the same problem. I then replaced the bottom plate and the door worked as it should. Thanks for once again having the part I needed.

Order the part from the Internet on Sunday, it mailed out on Monday and I received it on Tuesday. I unplugged the fan then undone 3 screws that held the fan bracket to the refrigerator pulled it out unscrewed 3 more nuts and replaced the fan on the bracket and I cut the old wire plug off the old fan and with 2 wire nuts put it on my new fan. Replaced the fan and bracket back on the refrigerator plugged it in and it works like a new refrigerator.

I simply removed the old switch by gently pulling down on the old switch with a screwdriver. When it was about half way out I just gently pulled down on the old switch and it popped out... I removed the two connectors attached to the old switch by pulling on the connectors with a pliers...I tried using my fingers but wasn't able to pull the connectors off so I used pliers. It worked perfectly.. When pulling off the old connectors, make sure you attach the new switch to the same tabs on the new switch... It was very easy to do and took under 5 mins.....The light switch works perfect....P.S. You should unplug the frig while making the connection just in case....Safety first....!!!

Ordered the leveling bolts, very fast shipping, parts correct as shown. Purchased a condo by the shore, frige had no levelers, they went in smoothly & was done in no time.
Steve

inserted a knife between the switch and the plastic interior in order to pop the switch out.
then took off the 2 wires on the old switch put them on the new switch and reinserted the switch into the plastic interior.

Removed and replaced the old tray, which had lost its elasticity and wasn't emptying properly. This couldn't have been easier.
Several years ago, we had the same problem, so I called a repair service and paid a dude about $85 to diagnose the cause and correct it. This time, based on observing that prior repairman, I ordered the replacement part for about $25, from this outfit, and repaired the fridge in less time (including time online) than previously spent finding a repair service and dealing with it.

Remove the lower panel by taking out the 2 screws on top and 2 at the bottom of the panel. To diagnose the problem, verify that there is water supplied from the valve under the sink to the water supply valve under the DW. This can be done by turning off the valve under the sink, disconnecting the copper supply line under the DW then turning on the valve under the sink to see if water passes through the line.

The float switch is located on the left front (as you face the DW). This is activated by the float in the tub. Check to be certain that the float is not restricted. The contact point on the switch is a spring loaded plunger. It should depress as the float rises and pop back out as the float returns to its low point.

Turn off the circuit breaker for the DW. To remove the switch, pull off the two electric leads from the switch. Mark the top lead with a piece of tape. Then remove the one philips screw. Replace the switch by reversing the procedure. Note that you have aligned the float contact point with the float.