17774B Admiral Refrigerator - Instructions

After disconnecting the electricity. I followed the instructions as indicated in the "HOW TO" article on the website. I used a steel putty knife and pried the light switch out of its retaining hole. I worked the right side the most since this is the side with the retaining clip. After I removed the switch I transferred the two electrical outlets to the new switch and easily snapped it into place. Engaged the electric power and tested the switch.

removed the 2 screws that held the panel in place, had to reach up and push on locking tabs to lower trhe front of the panel. was able to then push on the locking tab of the switch to release it. removed the wires, replaced them onto the new switch, and snapped the switch into place. the rest was reverse of the uninstall process.

removed all three screws, disconnected power. then I switched out the plug assembly (mine had different male adapter. Then the Control Arm, new arm was to wide and took up to much space when it was fully extended. Put it back in reverse order, and within 5 hours it was making ice.

Fridge has a top freezer. I unplugged the fridge and removed the lower panel in the back. I removed the two screws that hold the valve bracket to frame of fridge in lower right corner (facing fridge from back). I then disconnected the modular wiring plug and both the water supply and the hose to the icemaker.
i connected the power plug to the new part, reconneced the hose to the icemaker and reattached the bracket with the two screws into the frame of the fridge. finally, i reconnected the water supply and plugged in the fridge. In a few hours the icemaker was working like new. I figure i save about $100 or more by not having to call a repairman and it was easier than I had expected.

Looked up the part and found it on PartSelect. I was exactly like the same as the part I had to replace, there for I didn't have to make any new adjustments to the part to fit. I also read the story by others that had the same problem on the website. I had anticipated the part was bad, because no water was getting to the tray. I ordered the part and did the repair pretty quick.

Checked the manuals and found the needed part. Having worked with solenoids before gave me an idea that it was the defective part. The valve would open when water was needed and you would hear this gushing sound. Water supplt was okay and the ice making unit was also working. Bought the part from this website, switched the unit and now the ice maker is working perfectly. This could not have been any easier. Make sure to keep your manuals handy!

Popped the old one out with a kitchen knife and popped the new one back in. It tool less than 15 seconds!!

My owners manual said to unplug fridge from elec outlet, use a kitchen knife to gently pry off the switch plate
(manual had a pictoral example), unclip the two wire, replace with on new switch and replace the switch. Close
door and plug back in. Open door to check that the lite
works. Walla! It did. Thanks!

Sincerely, Ron Marshall, Billings, MT

I pried the old one out with a screw driver and pushed the new one in. I expected instructions in the box it came in but there were none.

yup

Please bear in mind I am 65 years old & it was harder to get up & down off the floor then to change the switch. Was very easy - watched video, unplugged unit. I used the putty knife at the right front corner to work loose, when it came loose had to loose the left side a little. The unit pulled out easily. detached the wired that had a single plug with 2 prongs on it. Attached the plug, pushed new switch into place. There was no way you could place wires on wrong prong. When done, plugged refrigerator back in & checked if working. I CAN SEE THE LIGHT and the food in the freezer now. Thank you for making an easy repair.

It was simple to just replace the shelf support. This is the thrid time I have used Parts Select for replacment parts. They always have the parts in stock, ship really quickly and it's a beeze to search their site for the parts I needed every time. Parts Select is now at the top of my Favorites list when it comes to appliance repair needs. Thanks to everyone at Parts Select!

Simply stick a putty knife between the switch and refrig wall. Pop out old swith, remove both wires by pulling off switch by terminals. Throw switch out. Put wires on new switch and push into slot and all done. Nothing to it! Took me 5 minutes if th

I have never before seen a bulb with the filament intact not light. If the bulb's filament seems intact, screw the bulb into a known working lamp and see if it lights. When screwing it back into the socket in the fridge, it takes a bit of extra effort to fully seat (until it does, it won't light!). For replacing the switch, I unplugged the unit, used a paint scraper and worked it under the switch bezel from the right side. A bit of moxie, and the switch came out. The replacement switch had a different spade contact spacing than the original. I used a pair of scissors to cut the rubber bridge between the two switch wire connectors so I could connect to the new switch. In the end, it turned out to be the bulb. NOTE: The Model TC18KL is _not_ listed! What I finally found that the number "P7803211WL" on the sticker is actually a manufacturing code. Found this out by searching, and Sears' part search came up with matches.

Followedinstructions that came with kit. Kit parts were unnecessary as new valve fit in exactly as old one had been. Quick connect for flow out of valve to maker was a surprise as no threaded connection present and no nut necessary; simiply push the line into place. Reconnect water line, check for leaks and refasten back covering. Instructions with kit contained an incorrect drawing of connecting water outflowline; a one page addition verbally gave correct info, but detailed step by step instruction for this one connection was confusing. Otherwise, could not have been easier; surely a do-it-yourself project.