17774B Admiral Refrigerator - Instructions

I had to find a couple screws that would match the clips and kickplate. I screwed on the clips. The kickplate snapped on perfectly.

Removed rear cover to see non-operating fan - removed three mounting screws on the motor that were a challenge to access. Swapped fan from old motor onto new motor - one threaded nut on the motor shaft. Spliced new fan wires into fan wires of the wiring harness and mounted with three self-tapping screws supplied with new fan motor. Replaced rear cover and plugged it in! Now the refrigerator cools like new (1981 model side-by-side Admiral)

The first issue was to determine if the problem was with the ice maker or the water dispenser / pump. I chose to try to repair the dispenser first since there air bubbles in the plastic line. Also, the ice maker seems to have been working. There just wasn't enough water so the ice cubes were hollow.

I unplugged the power cord, , removed the cardboard backing and two bolts that secured the pump to the refrigerator. I vacumned the area so I could see around. I pulled the valve out and disconnected it from the internal power source. I disconnected the copper water intake and the plastic tubbing to the ice maker. I used a pipe cutter to take the old flanged area off. A new flange was included in the package. I used that and reconnected the copper intake and the plastic tubbing. I replaced the power source and secured the valve to the refrigerator makeing sure the plastic tubbing wasn't twisted. When I plugged the refrigator back up, the ice maker started working within five minutes.

Pulled out the refrigerator and removed the two panels from the rear of the refrigerator. Removed the fan held in by four screws and unplugged the connector. Soldered on the original connector, installed the fan to the motor and re-installed the unit into the refrigerator. Then blew out and vaccumed the condenser coils.

The old water valve leak required me to purchase this new complete part. After shutting off the water supply, disconnect the supply line, take out the old water valve by disconnecting the "plug" from the refrigerator, and disconnect the plastic water line going into the ice maker. Then just reconnect the new water valve by plugging it into the 2 pronged receptacle, note to be sure to write down which wire goes into which input when disconnecting the old valve. Then hand tighten the plastic tube into the valve. Next attach your water supply line into the new water valve, tighten this supply line as you would any plumbing supply line with a couple of adjustable wrenches and some teflon tape at the connection. I would also recommend at this point, if the compression fitting on your supply line was like mine a bit old, to spend a couple bucks on a new fitting and put that on the supply line, since you don't want to worry about it being a good seal at the supply line point, once the repair is done. After checking for "no leaks" reattach everything to the rear of the refrigerator (make a note of the attachment before taking out the old valve) and see if your ice maker starts to make some ice. You will hear the valve feeding the water to the icemaker if all is properly setup.

Remove the 3 screws and disconect the plug. The wiring harnes on the new Ice Make did not match so I use the wiring harness from my old unit. I pluged the new one in and screwed in the three screws and it was ready. I did have to wait a full 24 hours before the first 8 pieces of ice eject out.

A very cold and brittle switch in a 17 year old fridge. Used screwdrivers to pry out with some resistance Had to cut the molded plug in half and split wires, because replacement contacts were farther apart than the original. End result, works great.

Turned off water supply and electricity. Removed old valve by removing two 1/4 in nut screws and water supply line and the ice maker suppy line. Disconnected the electrical line.Reattached water supply line,the icemaker supply line and the electrical connector. Put valve back into refrigerator and attached the two 1/4 in nut screw. Turned on water supply and electricity. Bled water thru system and now have plenty of ice.

removed all three screws, disconnected power. then I switched out the plug assembly (mine had different male adapter. Then the Control Arm, new arm was to wide and took up to much space when it was fully extended. Put it back in reverse order, and within 5 hours it was making ice.

Used a screwdriver to pry loose the old switch, swapped wires to the new switch and pushed it into the opening. Took about 2 minutes.

Pry old switch and pull out. Disconect two wires. Put two wires on new switch, must be inserted right and connections not loose. Put switch in, making shure wies do not come off and snap in place

Part was easy to order, delivered quickly, installation very easy. Just unplug the unit, pop out the old swich using a screwdriver, disconnect and reconnect leads and pop switch back in. Definitely recommend that you can do it too.

Unplug appliance. Socket wrench to unscrew two screws. Module drops down. disconnected two press-on wires by prying off with screwdriver. Removed old switch. Press-fit new switch. Reconnected two wires (color coded). Screwed module back in place. Plug in appliance.

I noticed that the refrigerator was having trouble maintaining temperature. Thought it might be time for new one until I found out that a new frig was $5k to $7K. Just happened to notice that the light switch didn't look quite right (was not sitting sqaure to the door). Once I pressed it it came loose. I then realized the the lights were staying on (50 watts of heating). Replaced the switch and the frig started working like new.

disconnected el. power to fridge. pried out broken switch with small screwdriner and pulled out w/water pump pliers. installed new switch and pressed into opening.