12303 (1988) Kenmore Range - Instructions

My son did the repair for me. It was easy, he said. just slid it out and put new one in.

The door came off easily after I removed the two hinge covers that are attached to the oven. Taking the door off can be done with one person but ideally two.

The new parts fit in perfectly and the hinge pin used for shipping comes out easiest with a pair or wire cutters (you do not cut it just grab it and pull).

After that, re-assemble the door and drop in place. It was a snap.

FYI...the shipping was ultra fast and the price was great.

No issues whatsover with the entire process.

Replaced all 4 burners, grates, pans, middle grate and fan/light switch. No real "repair" except for the switch, which has two phillips screws to remove the little panel the switch is enclosed in. The fasteners holding the switch TO this panel were VERY difficult to remove, you have to destroy them to get them off! Once that is done, removed the wires from old broken switch, placed them on new switch (now attached to the panel) placed panel back in to position, replaced the two screws and DONE! It was all quite easy and the stove looks brand new now.

Took the door apart and replaced the hinge, very easy

This range is about 17 years old and the igniter on the left set of burners had failed in the first month of use. A warranty repairman came, made a big mess, marred the adjacent counter top, spent a lot of time badmouthing Jenn-Air and left without fixing the problem. We have been manually lighting these burners all this time. Now that I am retired, I have set about repairing everything I can get my hands on just to have things to do. I always did this when I was young but got too busy with career and family. One big help is doing things now is you can Google a problem, find parts and instructions how to make the repair which is much easier than all the research you used to have to do. This repair is easy but time consuming due to all the screws that you have to remove to get to the igniter and the controller in the back. Since one side worked I was confident that the controller was good but the problem was only the igniter on the left side. This range is a dual fuel unit and has a downdraft connection so sliding it out from the wall is also time consuming. First pull the breaker at the electric panel. Remove the bottom plate and disconnect the flexible downdraft connection. Hopefully, you have enough flexible gas line so you can slide stove out to reach the back without having to shut off the gas and removing the connection. Next you remove the grills and burners. Then you have to remove all the screws connecting the top of the stove. There are nuts and washers that surround the gas jets that you can remove to partially lift the drip pan so you can unscrew the old igniter and install the new one. Next remove the back and see where the igniter control is located. Disconnect the old wire, install the new wire in the guides and insert in the controller. At this point all you need to do is put everything back where it was. This does not take a lot of know-how just time and patience. It makes you wonder why an "expert" could not have done this easily.

I had repair men replace the door hinges 2times and decided the 3rd time to do it myself and save some $. ordering was a chinch, received the parts in 2 days and followed instructions posted on this site. They were excellent. Just a few things I would stress: Lift UP the door to remove, not open the door fully and pull out and also make sure to take the small pins out of the new hinges before closing. They are so small you could over look them. The person who put detailed instructions on this site is to be commended for clarity and detail on "How To" I really appreciated it.

Replaced oven gasket and both oven hinges. Repairs did not work. Oven door is actually worst. Do not waste your time replacing the oven hinges unless they are actually broken. When to Ace hardware and bought a package of 3 super magnets for about $10. Practice placing the magnets on metal strip on outside of the actual oven vs the oven door. This metal strip is not galvanized for which the oven cleaning latch goes through. Appeared to solve the problem. I then used epoxy glue to insure the super magnets would permanently stay in place. These are dangerous magnets that must be kept away from children and pets. You will spend more time separating these magnets from each other than gluing them in place. This part I will let you figure out but the only way to separate the 3 magnets from each other is the slide them, one at a time, from each other. Now I am awaiting 4 to 6 hours for the epoxy to cure. Best of luck. Jeff

Loosen two screws to remove door. Removed outside trim and other outside screws hold center panel in place. Removed one screw holding hinge in place. Screwed new hinge in place. Re-attached center panel to outside trim and hung door. Easy enough.

We watched the video demo & followed it step by step. The project took about 35 minutes and we replaced the hinge on each side of the oven. First we removed the oven from the wall, then dismantled it & cleaned it thoroughly, removed the old hinges and replaced with new ones. the only problem we had was that the pin holding the hinge open was missing on one of the hinges, but we cut a nail and inserted it to hold the hinge open. The job was completed quickly, and the oven door fits and works well. Thanks for the video--it really helped us.

I watched the youtube video that was provided by this website on my computer while doing this repair step by step. It was a snap!

We found the youtube video created by partselect.com and followed it. We took the door apart, cleaned the inside, removed the old hinges and replaced them with the new ones. Now the door works perfectly!

sorry, son did job. It went like a charm. Easy, quick, and works great.Thanks

Opened oven door. Inserted a small bent nail into the small holes on the hinge. This locks the hinge from closing all the way. Removed the chrome hinge retaining plates. One at each hinge. Lifted the door off the oven. Laid door on towel. Removed 3 screws from the top of door, three screws from the bottom of door. This allows you to separate the two pieces of the door. Clean all glass surfaces, including the ones under the middle glass panel. Removed 1 screw from each hinge at bottom of door. Pull hinge from bottom of door after removing screws. Insert new spring at top of door first, replace retaining screw. Realign the two door parts and replace all screws. Set door back on hinge pocket. Be careful to insure that the hinge seats into the pocket. Open door just enough to replace retaining plates. Process was easy, but it did not fix the problem completely. Bought heavy magnets from hardware store and installed them inside the door. This with the new hinge fixed the problem.

Unlike many here, the oven door closed enough to come up to temperature quickly and I could not feel any heat escaping. The oven worked fine but the light stayed on because the door just wasn't snug enough. I watched the great how-to video and ordered the hinges. They arrived in two or three days! I set up a work space, cued up the video again and the new hinges were installed in just a few minutes! But the door would not close enough to turn the light off! I did some more googling around and found the magnet trick! I just happened to have the perfect size magnet from a broken souvenir magnet! and now the light stays off! I stuck the magnet (about the size of a nickel) inside the door opposite the light button. This won't help if you have serious problems with the oven door, but it works if the only problem is the light!

I did not have the model number and thought I picked the correct knob by the picture. I sent back the knobs and one of my knobs to see if the company can match.