119908821 Kenmore - Instructions

replaced old, worn blocks with new style surface plug in block kits - all 4 burners. Completely resolved the problem at very low cost (less than $50.00).

1. Turn off circuit breaker, pull out element and remove reflector pan.
2. Unfasten terminal block mounting screw and remove terminal block from casing.
3. Cut wires as close to defective terminal block as possible (not as per instructions) since you will need the maximum possible length of wire.
4. Slip on heat shrink sleeves, strip stove wires and connect to new terminal block per instructions.
5. Heat shrink sleeves per instructions.

Unplug range, remove top back panel. Remove knob. Replacement part is different, but if you look closely, each metal tab has a number stamped on the plastic housing directly beneth it. Remove old switch (2 screws)and remove and replace wires one at a time. You will need to cut the "one size fits all" metal shaft that the knob attaches to. We had to remove most of it, leaving only 2 "segments". File rough edges and apply vaseline so that the plastic sleeve will slip right on. We used the shorter sleeve (only 2 that are supplied will fit the knob). Replace unit and screw in. Replace knob.

Pulled out the range, unplugged it and removed the upper back panel. The switches were held in place with two screws. Removed the old switches, detached the wires and plugged them into the new switches. Mounted the new switches, replaced the back panel, plugged the range back in and pushed it back into position. Appliance repair company wanted $370. I did it in 45 min. for less than $100.

Removed the wires that I could, then terminal block. Installing the new terminal block was very easy; however the wires that arced were fused to the terminal bock screws and needed to be cut and new connectors had to be put on the wires to allow them to be reattached to the block safely.
Once all was replaced and reinstalled the oven has worked great. The length of the repair was increased because of the melted parts and having to run to the store to get the new wire connectors big enough to fit on the wires. If we were simply replacing the block and had not encountered the melted ends, it would have been a very quick and easy repair.

removed old Plug-in block by removing 1 screw and cutting 2 wires. (Screw was so tight and rusty that I had to use vise grips to remove it). Installed new Plug-in block with wire nuts and heat shrink wraps. YOU just have to make sure the wires are seated in the block properly. This job was much easier than I anticipated. The burner works great now!

I cut the power to the circuit. Removed the burner and then unscrewed the old aluminum plate attached to the range top cover. Opened the topcover to access the wires. I cut the two wires being sure that I left enough length. I then slipped the two new wires with the brass contacts into the new black plastic holder until it locked. Reattached the new metal plate to the range cover, fed the wires through and snapped the new plastic holder into the aluminum plate. Secured wire ends with the ceramic wire nuts. Total time about 30 minutes.

Drilled a pilot hole with a 1/16 th drill bit and tapped off screw head.

Pretty easy installation; you lift the top plate up and snip the wires maybe four inches away from the burner. Leave more wire than you think you need; once you get into it you'll realize you need more wire length than you think.

Then strip the remaining ends, twist them together with the provided caps, and use the heat shrink to hold it together. Remove the old terminal, replace it with the new ones, and you're good to go!

Remember to check that the wires are tight in the cap before heat shrinking, though. I had to get more shrink wrap in order to finish.

Turn off power, remove heat coil assembly and drip pan. Unscrew the terminal assembly from the range top. Cut back 3 inches on each terminal wire and strip insulation 3/8 inch. Terminal assembly should be with the short side of the black block (from the side securement hubs) facing toward the coil stems. Slide the shrink wrap onto each wire and Twist each old with each new wire using the wire nuts and slide the shrink wrap Over each. Using a hair dryer, heat gun, or open flame carefully shrink the wrap. Secure the terminal back in place on the range.

Just followed the instructions

remove the bottom storage door unhook 2 return spring check with flash light install support under the top cook door and open the top door slowly , remove 3 screws at the bracket slide out the hinge with springs and slide out the hinge from the door install the 2 springs the same way you take it out and reinstall bracket and screws and springs and your done just picture and remember the you remove and reinstall i did it and i'm not a handy man i got happy when i did it my self i said wow to my self if i called some repair guy he possible wil charge me at least $ 125 to $ 150 for 25 min job

I watched a you tube video from the reference library at reference oven door repairs and the explanation was clear and simply understood , even though the oven type was not exact, very easy to follow.

Removed 2 screws, cut the wires, pulled the part out that the element plugs into. Replaced the old part with the new one and put the screws back in to hold it, reconnected the wires and plugged in the element. Turned stove on and Valaaaa! It was fixed in 10 minutes! Thanks for the great repair parts!

removed the plug that had burned up on one of the top burners, replaced it with a new plug purchased from parts select., it was quite easy ,I unpluged stove and raise the top exposing wiring for the burners cut the old plug wiring and connected the wires for the new plug with connectors and shrink tubing supplied in the repair kit easy and quick repair