11078103310 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

First I removed the front panel which allowed access to the burner assembly. Then I removed the gas connector and elbow from the back of the dryer. Then I removed 2 screws that hold burner assembly in place and 2 screws that hold an angle brace for the burner assembly. Had to loosen the screw that clamps around the gas pipe holding it in place clear in the back inside dryer housing. Unplugged all wiring connectors, then I removed the burner assembly and removed the 2 screws holding the burner tube to the valve. Remove the orifice and replaced with the proper size for LP gas. Then removed the blocking pin and replaced with one for LP gas. Then reassembled in reverse order. Actually pretty easy.

took off about 8 screws, opened door into it's front & back parts, popped out the old/broken door catches and re-inserted replacements. Only 1 is needed, but this is the 2nd one to break. The first time a repairman switch the un-used from right side to left. (there are 2 so the door can be hung left or right opening)

the ignitor did not glow red checked thermal fuse by exhaust duct. fuse open replaced thermal fuse

the problem was not the igniter its was the thermal fuse I broke the igniter during inspection of the problem be careful its a very easy thing to break repairs complete thank you parts select for the quick shipping and low prices

Pulled the big front panel by removing two screws near bottom of front and pulling out at bottom until the top pops loose. Vacuumed out all of the dust and checked for loose connections. Ran dryer - igniter would light, but no gas. Checked the two solenoids with a VOM. the one with the two leads would intermittently read Infinity (open). Super simple repair. Remove two screws on solenoid bracket on top of the gas valve, Replace solenoid and plug it back in with the easy push-on connector. NO PROBLEM - all fixed.

Our dryer would not heat and it seemed that no gas was coming from the regulator. The igniter was working fine but the burner never turned on. To check the problem, i followed the instructions to remove all body panels until I had access to the burner assembly. I dismantled both gas valve coils and tested each one for open or closed circuit using my multi-tester. I found that the three terminal gas valve coil was an open circuit and was not functioning so I ordered a new one from PartSelect and within just a couple days, had the drier back up and functioning. I also replaced the igniter due to a malfunctioning igniter that has been changed by the manufacture. I must say that PartSelect has the fastest shipping I have ever seen. One part I ordered was at my door in less than 24 hours and I only paid standard shipping...un real! OUTSTANDING....5 STAR SERVICE

I removed the front panel of the dryer by removing the 2 screw that secure it at the bottom and pulling upward to disconnect the cover at the top. I then removed the two screws that hold the metal cover that secures the 2 elements in place. I disconnected the wire plugs from the 2 elements, removed the 2 elements and replaced them with the new parts making sure to place them in the same positions as before. I then replaced the housing cover and tightened the screws. Then I replaced the front cover of the dryer.

Initially we thought the problem was the igniter, so we ordered an igniter kit. Installed it but was unsuccessful. We then went on the websight and read further, about 50% of dryers with no heat but working had a problem with the thermal fuse.So we ordered the thermal fuse installed it, which was very easy, and success. Once the problem was diagnosed properly it was fast and easy. Recommend looking at the statistics for specific problem.

Very bad design to keep door shut but very simple to fix. Just screw bad strike out and screw new one end. Whirlpool should have gave extra when you buy this type dryer.

Opened front panel .Tested both coils on gas valve.
Found no continuity on one of the coils. Replaced coil,
dryer works like new.

Like another reviewer's repair story, I decided to take the door apart. It was too difficult, at least for me, to get the faulty catch out without damaging either the the door or my hands. This is why I give it an "easy" rather than "very easy" rating and put the total repair time at a half hour or better. I also decided I wanted a second person to help - not with getting the door apart or putting it back together, but because a second pair arms was very helpful in rehanging the door well. We removed the door (four screws), marking which side of the hinge needed to be flush with the actual dryer when rehanging. Then we took the door apart, which comprises another sixteen screws (four on each edge). We used an electric drill but I'm sure it could be done manually. We used needle nosed pliers to get the faulty latch out of that side of the door, then replaced it with the "back up" from the other side. Then we put the door back together and carefully rehung it. Done. We did decide that, in future, all kids (we have three boys) slamming the door would be severely beaten. Pushing the door until it's against the dryer, then PUSHING (as opposed to slamming) the latch ONTO the catch pin on the dryer is obviously what was intended. However, I've learned not to count on my boys being particularly conscientious, so I'd ordered four replacement latches to keep on hand. This machine was delivered in April 2009 and I replaced the latch in April 2011. Based on this and our laundering habits, I'm sure the others will be used long before the dryer calls it quits.

Removed the broken catch with a pair of needle nose pliars and replaced it the same way. Took about 10 minutes. Saved a Service Call

Took out two front Panel screws and removed the panel. Removed Gas solenoid coil holding bracket by removing two phillips head screws. Disconnected the coil leads. and removed the coils. Connected the new coils to the leads and set in place. Replaced the holding bracket and the two screws. Replaced the front cover and the two front cover screws. Piece of Cake!

I removed the two screws holding the access panel, and removed the access panel. Then removed the lower air duct. I then checked the burner, The solenoid was not opeing the valve for the gas. I order the coils, in two day I had the coils and installed them. The dryer is working great.

After replaceing several parts including the thermostats the last part I replaced the coils were the defective part. I originally metered out the themostats and they appeared to be okay but since this was my first time I thought I might have been mistaken. It turns out the last part I thought it could be was the part that was defective. I will say that it is very simple to replace any of the parts involved. The hardest part was trying to open the dryer itself. But after having to do it 3 times, I'm now a pro. I also replaced the drum belt and since I had it open I also replaced the belf idler with a newer modified idler rolller.

Putting the belt back on is easy, but it helps to view the video or a picture to understand how the belt goes around it.