11062182103 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

So I opened the back up, and looked down the flame shoot and I could see that the igniter was never glowing red. (You can actually see the red glow of the igniter when its working right, then you here the solonoid click and flame. But again all this when its working correctly.) So anyway, no heat no glowing red.

I took the voltmeter out, grounded 1 lead and just followed the voltage (using the schematic provided), through the switches, yada yada trying to trace how far it got.

Voltage got to 1 side of thermal fuse, but not to other side. Bingo. Disconnected fuse and did continuity check - open. All of this took diagnosing took 1/2 hour to hour. Not really counting toward fix. Ordered the part at parts select. Put a jumper over the fuse so that clothes could still be dried (probably not recommended but it works). Part arrived in 2 days. Didn't even put the back panel on.

The part is right on the back. 1 screw, 2 space terminals. Takes all of 3 minutes to replace. Then another 5 minutes to put the back panel on and vent hose back on. Most of that is because you are working in a cramped space. (I don't have the biggest laundry room.)

Can't beat parts select!

Parts select + a little know how, saved me about $400.

Never did get the part. Initial order was not the right part. Ordered the right part on 12.2 and this is 12.18. While the initial oder and delivery was correct, they do not tell you that you do not have to ship by Fed ex. Fed Ex seems to not be able to provide service to our address despite driving past it several times a day.

this was a super easy job! i unplugged the dryer, removed the back panel, located the fuse on the bottom left side, replaced it, put the panel back on, plugged it back in and IT WORKED! this was the first appliance repair job for me and i am so glad i found this site. it probably saved me $100.00 or so doing it myself. thank you!!!

I watched the video several times before beginning, which was very helpful. As I didn't have the tool that was recommended in the video, I used pliers, which although took longer, worked out fine. I also used pliers to pull the wires off of the old thermal fuse. My dryer had been not working for 2 months, so I was very pleased that I was able to watch a very detailed video, order the parts on the same website, and receive them very quickly (within couple of days.) My daughter who lives in another state googled my dryer model number with a description of the problem and found your website. She sent me the link of the video to watch as it appeared very easy to understand. She and I both were very impressed by the step-by-step instructions on the video, including a list of all the tools required. I am an 81 year old woman and had no problems fixing this by myself with the assistance of your website. I have recommended this site to several of many friends and family members. Thank you!

I researched causes of the noise, zeroed it down to the idler pulley. I then got the dryer schematic and took the dryer apart after disconnecting the power and the vent. i did not have to remove the drum, the idler pulley was easily accessible once the top and back panels were removed. I simply removed the drive belt from tension off the pulley, removed the old pulley and installed the new one. Once finished the dryer was running whisper quiet.

I remove the back panel then look for thermal fuse.. so easy to replace.. thank you so much ..

Replaced Thermal fuse, hardest part was getting behind the drier to disconnect the gas & vent line.

Attempt to start dryer normally. Turn timer dial to high heat setting. Press the Push To Start button. Verify plug is secure in wall outlet. Got to breaker panel to verify breaker is not tripped. (Sometimes breaker may trip but visually appear no to be tripped). Reset breaker to maker sure breaker is in the on position. Attempt to start dryer normally. If dryer did not start proceed. Get a multimeter. Remove plug from wall outlet. Slide dryer from wall. Remove exhaust duct from bottom of dyer. Use multimeter to check voltage at wall outlet. Verify 120 to ground and 208 between hot legs. Remove rear cover if main dryer unit and rear of control unit. Connect the multimeter to rear of control panel rear of push button. Turn meter to ohm setting. Push the start button to see if there is continuity. Release the button to verify no continuity. Next major part of curcuit is the thermal fuse. Look on lower left area of dryer. With multimeter in Ohm mode place the leads on the light blue wires. If no continuity replace thermal fuse

I took off the back panel off the dryer. The idler pulley could be accessed on the bottom. It was a bit cramped but not too tough to replace.

I made sure air vent was clear and clean. I removed front panel of dryer unit, located fuse, removed wires, tested fuse with ohm meter, which was defective. Tested new fuse placed back in dryer reattached wires. Cleaned out inside of dryer, replaced front panel. Now works like new.

Seemed daunting but pull the front off and the drum is basically just perched inside on some rollers. You have to pull it out to really reach in and wrap the 96”+ band around it and to motor and don’t forget to tension it with tension pulley if you don’t see that if your belt broke!
Another bonus is after 10 years I got to remove the softball size fur ball rolling in the squirrel cage fan , big help on air flow!!!

The repair, replacing the thernal fuse was easy, just one screw and then remove and replace by disconnecting and reconnecting two wires. It did take a bit of time to find which part was defective. I first removed the back panel and front panel and the drum to get at the igniter and flame window. I checked continuity of these parts as well as the gas solenoids and they all checked out ok. The thermal fuse was last on my list. It read as an open circuit. I temporarily jumpered the two wires at the fuse and checked that the igniter would now heat up. I spent over one hour removing the ductwork and giving the unit a thorough cleaning with a shop vac.

An online help site lead me to believe the problem was the gas igniter. After ordering that and installing it I discovered that wasn't the problem. I took a look at the schematic which is in the electrical compartment and found that there is more than one thermal breaker. I found the other one, ordered and installed the part and had it running within 30 minutes. I had to access the back of the unit, remove the back cover with a socket wrench, unscrew the thermal breaker and re-install the new one with no special tools.

There were two tricky parts - one, was locating the part to repair on the dryer. One set of instructions said it was on the back of the dryer behind the panel. Once I removed that panel I realized that the thermal fuse was on the front. After I identified where the part was (bottom front), the second tricky part was getting to the screw. You just need a mini-socket set and relatively small hands. A magnetic light that can attach to the dryer while you are working is also useful. This would have been a 30-45 minute job had I known precisely where the part was that needed replacing. Otherwise, this was relatively easy.

I removed the top first followed along with removing the side bracket that holds the circuit board. I then proceeded with removing the bottom cover and front panel. I disconnected the front panel from the control board and was able to slide the front panel upward. The door and blower housing was a bit tricky to pull out without thinking I was damaging something. I then replaced all the seals and cleaned the dryer after removing the drum and belt. I also replaced the drum support rollers. Afterwards I put everything back together and had an "E1" error and I pulled the thermostat out and wiped it down from all the lint and dryer worked perfect after that. Dryer takes the right amount of time to day clothes and no more rumbling noise. The instructions videos were VERY helpful.