11042826200 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

removed top cover,disconnected wires to valve,removed valve and hooked up a washer hose to test valve,one side was leaking,valve would not close.replaced with new valve that I received in 2 days,do not buy after market.

We followed another very helpful repair story. Unplug machine. Unscrew top back screws, remove top of washer. Reach inside from the top in the front of the machine. Remove screws holding latch in place, unplug the three plugs attached to latch. Replace with new door latch, screw it in place, replug the three plugs, put top of machine back on, replace screws on back and your'e done! Works great! Job made easy thanks to others helpfulness!

Could not have been easier. Have spent more time building kids' Star Wars Lego than this took...

Slid the washer out, took the hoses off and the back panel then the front panel, found coins in the filter tray and a baby bottle plastic cap was sealinhg the drain going into the plastic filter housing (it fits perfectly) removed all the items and put the white plastic screw cap back on the drain. Next problem was the washer walking around the laundry room, upon fixing the drain problem noticed the front shock absorber was unhooked and two on the right side of the machine had leak some grease, rehook the front shock and ordered two new ones it don't walk around anymore and works smooth and quiet now. I also have to add that Parts Select has been absolutely GREAT had the parts, delivered when promised.

Washed three loads and it was ok but then it stopped draining again. I don't know what to do.

Looked at how the old drain pump was installed, then removed it and installed the new one. It was a fairly simple fix. The only feedback were that the parts picture was a little confusing becuase the picture didnt really look like the actual part, so we were unsure if we were ordering the correct part.

Pulled washer away from wall, unplugged power from outlet, shut off water valves and removed hosed from back of machine. Removed the 3 screws on the back top of washer that holds top on and removed top. Unplugged the 4 wires on the back of the valve, removed the screw that holds the valve in place, pulled the valve out so I could remove the hose clamp and hose from the valve. I then reversed the operation. It is really pretty simple.

First I want to acknowledge Parts Select for their prompt delivery(received parts in less than two days)and their unbeatable prices(approximately 1/3 less than two local appliance repair/parts shops). Repair was straight forward a simple swap of the pump and I saved quite a few dollars.Thanks Parts Select.Any future appliance parts needs will be purchased here.

Plastic door hook was broken in half and door lock (DL) error code was showing-- though the hook was still in the door (each half held in by its own screw) and the door actually felt as if it was still latching o.k. After reading some things online, I though it was worth buying new hook since it was cheap, and giving it a try. Got it for a total of about $11.00 a little over 48 hours after placing order. It took about a minute to put it in. Then, tried to start the washer and "Voila"-- same error code still appeared! Read some more stuff online and saw a recommendation for "restting" this error by unplugging and replugging the pink wire harnesses at the back left of the top of the machine, after taking off the top (held on by just 3 screws at the back edge). So I did this (after first unplugging power cord), and this time "Voila", it worked! So I assume the error code was initially caused by the broken plastic hook, but the code stayed in the system (even though I had also tried unplugging the power earlier)- and then was cleared off when I did wired harness unplug/replug operation. So the situation was a little puzzling, but still an "easy fix" overall.

Replaced pump assembly

It was an easy fix,all I had to do was pull the washing machine out and remove the top off the washer,leaving everything connected,I cycled the machine to figure out where the leak was in the first place,then unpluged the washer,turned off the water and removed the water lines from the back of the washer(be sure to have a couple towels handy)disconnected the 4 color coded wires from the inlet valve making note of which color went to which relay,disconnected the hose from the inlet valve,and removed the one screw holding he valve to washer.That was all,then reversed the procedure to put it all back together. success! took about 20 min start to finish.

Read the instructions provided by PartSelect.....and with a bit of patience I installed all four bolts so the washer's inside agitator was not damaged in shipping. I highly recommend that anyone who is moving/storing or shipping their washer that you find the correct shipping bolts according to your model and make and install them prior to moving your appliance.

The replacemnt inlet valve was a little shorter than the original. I had to lenghten the slot on the back of the washer to get the mounting screw in the hole to attach the valve. There is only one mounting screw, so this was an important part of the replacement.

Unplug the power first.If you can lean the washer bank and support it with something underneath to make it easier to work on.Removed the 3 bolts at the bottom panel underneath the front door. Pump is right there in front. Unplug the power connection first,you can also remove the wiring that is right in front of the pump so it will be out of the way. remove the pump from it mounting grommets and pull it out a Little so you can get to the hoses at the back of the pump. Using pliers to pull of the hose clamps you can pull off the hoses. Now you can remove the pump out. Do everything in reverse and that's it. I found it to be easier than I thought and took less then 20 mins.

The washer tech manual stated to: 1) remove the top, 2) control console, 3) front below the door (front load washer), 4) remove the retaining wire, 5) pull back the rubber bellows, 6) remove the three screws and remove the door latch/lock assembly. I discovered that steps 1 through 3 are not required to replace the assembly. Installation is the reverse of steps 4 through 6. That was easy. The difficult part was figuring out how to reset the pressure switch so the drain pump would not start every time you reconnected to the power supply (pressure switch thinks the washer still contains water). With the power disconnected, I disconnected the pressure switch from the central control unit. Then I reconnected the power supply and pressure switch. That reset the pressure switch solved the problem with the drain pump. Washer works fine now.