11042826200 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

The baffles do push thru slots in the drum and by then pulling them towards you, it moves slightly locking them into place. There are screws supplied and they could be installed to aid in the baffles not coming off as ofter but this cannot by done by the average person for you would need special tools and allot of fixet smarts and patience. My washer can be set at a higher spinout speed and this does save on drying costs but the trade off is the baffles break off way too often. There are metal tabs in the drum that are raised up and snap behind tabs on the underside of the baffles as you slid them towards you install them. If you rebend these tabs up with a longnose pliers twice as high as they are, they will have more holding force, keeping the baffles from coming off as often. In my opinion, the baffles should have been designed to slide backwards to lock them in place, not foward. If you look at how they are shaped, they natually have pressure pushing them towards the back of the drum in the spin cycle which just contributes to the problem of them coming off in the first place.

firts remover the three bolts that held the front panel on, and removed that. Then removed the screw that held the pump in place. then removed the hoses from the pump. After that put hoses on new pump and srewed back in place . the put front back on.

Unplugged power cord, turned off both water valves on the wall, Disconnected the water hoses o the back where they are attached to the water inlet valve. Note: there will likely be some water left in the hoses. Then removed top lid of washer (this is a front load washer) by removing the 3 nut screws on the back of the lid and sliding it to the back and lifting off.. Disconnected the small hose that is attached to the water inlet valve by squeezing the hose clamp and sliding the hose off. Removed the 4 wires connected to the water inlet valve (marked each one with a number in order) then removed the Phillips head screw on the back of the machine holding the water inlet valve, sliding the valve to the right, . Removed valve, and replaced with new one, and re-installed by reversing order of removal.

Removed the three screws in the back took off the top and swamped out the part. I recommend that the inlet valve is checked periodically by removing the hoses to see if there's any build up on the filter.

UNPLUG WASHER ,SLIDE WASHER OUT FROM THE WALL. TAKE THE BACK OFF ,THEN TAKE PANET OFF IN THE FRONT. TWIST OLD SHOCKS ON THE TOP FIRST THEN TWIST BOTTOMS AND THE SHOCK WILL CUM OUT. PUT NEW SHOCK IN BOTTOM FIRST TWIST TILL YOU HEAR OR FEEL THE SHOCK SEAT ITSELF THEN INSTALL ON THE BOTOOM OF THE TUB.

Factory hose clamps were awkward to maneuver. I used automotive radiator hose clamps instead. They worked great.

1. After ordering I watched the video on the page for the part, the guy showed exactly what to do.
2. The day the part was to arrive I leaned the washer back and opened the lower front, based on the video on the page for the part, and removed the old shock absorber.
3. Part arrived, and I put in the new shock.
4. I ran a light load in the washer and it worked.
5. I put the washer back together and put in place.
6. I have since run a full load and it has worked well.

Note: In case I messed up the shock I was putting in, I bought 2 but did not need the 2nd one. I have kept it, just in case my 20 year old Whirlpool might need another one in the future.

Easiest repair on 2003 front loading washer. This unit cleverly uses star tool machine screws with a hex head so you can pick your favorite tool. Turn off the water supply. Remove the hot and cold hoses at the inlet valve, draining any water into a small bucket. Have a towel for dribbles. *This is a good time to examine the hoses and replace them if they are anything other than perfect. Burst or leaking hoses is the #1 cause of water damage in homes.* Three screws releases the top cover which slides 1/2 inch back and lifts off easily. Remove one screw securing the inlet valve (same size screw as the others). Pull the old inlet valve away from the rear panel for easier access. Remove the 4 wires from the solenoids (they pull straight off but maybe need a little finesse), and re-attach to the new inlet valve. Using pliers, release the hose clamp on the old valve sliding it down a couple of inches, then move the hose to the new valve and reposition the hose clamp. Toss the old inlet valve in the trash, screw the new one in place, replace the top panel, reattach and hand-tighten your hoses, turn on the water, look for any leaks, and go have a three martini lunch with the money and time you saved.

Remove three screws on bottom panel lift up and remove panel.The water pump in right in front. One screw holds it in place and the input and output hoses are on the back side.The hose clamps are a little hard to take off I found that before taking the one screw off the pump remove these two lines.Putting the pump back in secure the pump with the one screw. The output line is easy the intake line can be a bit of a more work to get it on because the rubber is so thin.Getting this hose and clamp was tough. Most of all use a wet vac to remove water in washer and vac out the line to drain doing this will be water free during replacing water pump.Run a cycle to make sure the lins do not leak. The other is the people that has posted this replacement are very good

Easily. 4 Screws. 2 Clamps.

Simple repair. #20 Torx, pair of pliers and 10 minutes to complete the job. Part was exact fit. Turned off the water supply, removed the three screws at the back, slid the top to the back and lifted it off to reveal the valve. Removed the screw holding the valve in place, slid the valve to the right and pulled the valve out to the inside. Used pliers to move the hose retainer off the valve, removed the hose, unplugged the wires, and reversed the procedure to install the new valve.

Had the old pump out - 1 screw and two hose clamp to unhook and an electrical wire to pull out - couldnt been any easier - when new one came took 5 mins to install - did a load to make sure pump worked before put it all back together

The baffle just slipped on with no tools required. The best thing was that we received our parts the next day after ordering them, and we just paid for regular shipping!

I had units stacked so I had to take the dryer off, pull 3 screws from back, slide cover back and the water valve is right there, easy to change. I have not had the problem since then.

Inputs on your web site of other people who had replaced this valve assembly helped.
Remove top cover from washer - three socket head screws on rear of machine, (need to move washer forward for access)
Turn off both hot and cold manual shutoff vales on wall. Run washer to take water pressure off from hoses (turn on for water to turn on , and then turn washer off).
Remove both hoses (mark/remember which side is hot/cold, as valve assembly has no markings), from valve assembly, had to use channel locks/adjustable wrench to remove nuts as they were really tight. Check to see if gaskets were OK, would have been nice, if these gaskets are supplied with new valve assembly. Remove screw which holds valve assembly to washer. Slide valve assembly slightly side ways to free it from bulkhead panel. Remove last hose assembly inside washer, attached to valve; remove four wires from solenoids. Keep track of wires (which solenoid).
Replace valve, reconnect internal hoses and wires; install valve assemble on bulkhead panel; attach screw; reconnect hoses; turn on manual valves; check for leaks; briefly turn on washer, check for internal leaks; install cover; push back washer in place.