Are you dealing with a faulty washplate in your washing machine? Meet the Whirlpool Washer Washplate Screw, your personal helper for securing loose or broken washplates. This genuine OEM part is highl...
If your washer isn’t spinning, agitating, or cleaning clothes like it used to, the gearcase might be the issue. This part powers the agitator and spin basket, helping your machine run smoothly. It fit...
This clutch slider kit is part of the transmission system in select washing machines, helping control the movement and speed of the agitator during wash and spin cycles. The kit includes a clutch band...
This water inlet valve is a key component in washing machines, responsible for regulating the flow of hot and cold water into the appliance during the fill cycle. It features two separate inlets and c...
This clutch assembly is designed for use in top-load washing machines, where it plays a crucial role in engaging the transmission during both the agitation and spinning cycles. If your washer is exper...
These rods help keep your washer drum steady during cycles, so it doesn’t shake or bang around. If your washer is noisy or feels unstable, the suspension rods might be worn out. This kit includes all ...
This small but important washer helps your washing machine run smoothly. It sits between the agitator or impeller and the transmission, reducing friction and keeping everything moving properly. If you...
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Questions And Answers for 11027132410
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Quinn
December 27, 2019
What is error code e2 f6
For model number 11027132410
Hello Quinn, thank you for your inquiry. The F6 E2 alert indicates there is issue with the appliance control unit, user interface or associated wiring. Unplug the washer, wait five minutes, then plug back in. We hope this information helps!
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Thomas
August 15, 2025
Washer stops half way through wash cycle. Appears to be just before rinse or final spin. Have to unplug, wait for lights to clear, plug back in go to rinse/spin, make sure “two rinse” is off and push start. It will then spin. Then it stalls again, complete and door locked lights on. Unplug, wait for lights to go off, plug back in and then it will unlock?
For model number 11027132410
Hi Thomas, thank you for contacting us. If the lid lock assembly is faulty, the washer might stop mid-cycle because it thinks the lid is open. Check the lid lock for any signs of damage or wear. Its part number is PS11722981. You may need to replace it to fix the issue. We hope this solves your problem!
Washer has a very loud roaring noise during the spin cycle, almost like a worn bearing.
For model number 11027132410
Hello Jamie, thank you for reaching out. The loud roaring noise during the spin cycle is likely due to a worn bearing, which is built into the gearcase. Since the bearing is not sold separately, resolving the issue typically requires replacing the entire gear case assembly. The part number is PS12741641. We hope this solves your problem!
1.) disconnect power to your washer. Turn off water supply and disconnect from the washer.
open the washer top and remove plastic cap from the wash plate
2.) using 7/16 socket, remove bolt from the wash plate. If you can't remove it with a socket , I recommend using impact wrench.
3.) remove wash plate ( you might need to spray penetrating oil or wd40 inside the bolt hole to loosen it. Check to make sure the wash plate gear grooves are not worn down, if they are, replace it.
4.) using your Maytag specific spaner nut wrench, remove the spaner nut from the shaft of the gear case. This should be right underneath where the wash plate was. If you can't turn it by hand , use a rubber mallet or hammer to encourage it.
5.) some people remove the wash basket at this point. I don't think it is necessary.
6.) close your washing machine. Tape the top closed to keep it from flying open. Tilt your washer back and prop it up where you have access to the underside of the washing machine.
7) remove motor rotor bolt and pull rotor off of the motor.
8.) disconnect the two wire connectors that supply power to motor. using a socket, remove bolts that are keeping motor attached to the gear case.
9.) Now that the gear case is all the is remaining on the underside, you can remove the 4 bolts that are holding the gear case to the washer. Now try to pull gear case out.
10.) if gearcase will not pull out, lower washer back to upright position. Spray penetrating oil or wd40 around the shaft of the gearcase and allow it to sit for 5-10 minutes. Using a hammer, lightly tap on the shaft of the gearcase and it should now fall out. ( you might have to apply penetrating oil again, or apply more force with the hammer.
11.) reinstall motor to new gearcase. Insert new gear case to the washer. Reinstall bolts and reconnect power supply wires.
12. ReInstall spaner nut inside the washer, reinstall wash plate.
Removed two screws on back of lid to raise top removed tub one bolt and one spanernut pulled tub lowered top reinstalled screws laid washer down to get to bottom of washer unplugged wiring removed four bolts pulled gear box and motor removed motor from gear box installed motor on new gear box reassemble washer
DIY'er working on a Maytag Centennial type washing machine should be aware that replacing a a transmission or agitator due to worn out splines is only half a job done well. I originally replaced my transmission due to worn splines, only to discover later that the worn agitator splines caused the new transmission splines to wear out at an accelerated rate. Transmission and Agitator should be replaced together, along with a new Agitator mounting bolt. There are plenty of video's online of how to do this repair so I won't get into that here. Just wanted to drop the above sage advice. Transmissions for these washers aren't cheap.
