10663996200 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

Not so good that was not the problem. Fan is not seized and all the lights work and display is not on but lights up as well. No start once plugged back in after 15 minutes of being unplugged. Nothing same no change.

I just popped out the old switch with a flat head screwdriver. Removed the connections and then installed new switch by reversing steps. Popped in back in and the light went on.

Was told capacitor was problem 90% of the time.Capacior was not the problem.Bad start relay.

Used the suggested problem list here to narrow down that the repair was most likely the run capacitor. Poped the new one in and I now have better control of my compartment ranges. I have a temperature gauge in each compartment. Check them every opening of the doors.

Pried out old part with screwdriver. Unplugged. When new part came, just plugged it in and pushed the part into place.

I ordered a new one waited for the new ones to come in once it did I took out the old ones and replaced them with the new ones. It was simple.

I pulled the socket out and unplugged the wires. I replaced the light socket by plugging in the wires and snapping the light socket into place. A very simple fix.

inst said,"50 pct of the time this calls for new capacitor," so we changed the capacitor. Same prob. It also said,"25 pct of the time it's the bi-metal thermostat" So we ordered it. We removed the plastic rear panel from inside the freezer comp. using small nut driver. Here we found much ICE surrounding the defrost unit, three inches thick. We thawed the whole mess. and the freezer has worked fine ever since. I think my habit of getting ice cubes from the inside container rather than from the ice cube dispenser, had kep t the freezer door open too much, interfering with the normal defrost cycle and allowing ice to build up over time so that it finally defeated the system. My new rule, "get ice cubes only from the front."

Unplugged the fridge first then took the bottom panel off with a 1/4 inch nut driver. Disconnected the wiring & used my ratchet to reach the 3 screws that held the motor. Took me longer to clean the bottom of the fridge then the installation.

I suggest following video supplied with order confirmation perfect fit

stopped the fan and noise stopped ordered fan motor and fan with interface cable. Using 1/4 inch nut driver to remove screws from motor bracket installed new motor and runs like new.

Swapped out evaporator fan motor, solved the problem!

Removed the old gasket and ran the hard edged lip into the opening behind the door liner. Concerned that the gasket does not seem to be attaching itself to the door well. First put it on the side of the refigerator and it would not adhere enough to support itself. While it closes it just doesn't seem to attach with the magnets in the gasket. These magnetic strips have a weak magnet side and a strong magnet side. I wonder if they put the wrong side facing the door when they assembled it. Counter this with a new gasket for an upright freezer which was twice the length and attached itself firmly to the side wall of the freezer and did not slide down.

Got on floor, pulled broken parts off front of refrigerator. Clipped in new grille. Looks great!

I followed the instructions on the video you provided with my order. Removed the freezer door and used the putty knife to loosen the old gasket and installed the new one. I'm a 77 year old female and if I can do it, so can you.