10663996200 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

Referencing the info/schematics you have on your website, I unscrewed/unattached top-front panel (carefully), from behind the panel you have to detach the wires (2) from the switch, pushed "in" the switch to remove, put in new switch and attach wires to test BEFORE remounting panel. Tada!! Thank you PartSelect! You saved me at least $80...would have been at least $100 to have a repair person come to the house!

Ordered it, received it in due time and it was very easy to replace. As of right now I'm very pleased. Thanks

It was very easy. The part make look different online but it was a proper replacement.

Repair went well,took about five to ten minutes to disconnect the power from the fridge removed the defective switch installed the new one ,reconnected the power,,,and Let there be light and there was light!

I simply removed the old switch by gently pulling down on the old switch with a screwdriver. When it was about half way out I just gently pulled down on the old switch and it popped out... I removed the two connectors attached to the old switch by pulling on the connectors with a pliers...I tried using my fingers but wasn't able to pull the connectors off so I used pliers. It worked perfectly.. When pulling off the old connectors, make sure you attach the new switch to the same tabs on the new switch... It was very easy to do and took under 5 mins.....The light switch works perfect....P.S. You should unplug the frig while making the connection just in case....Safety first....!!!

The repair story webpage has some problems. I want to rate it "very helpful" but it showed "not helpful". I am pleased with the order service. It was very hard to find the parts on the web. There are a couple of web sites but only partselect has it in inventory. I ordered it, and it came in within 5 days. Excellent service. Will continue to order parts from this site in the future.

The majority of the repair time was spent moving the items in the refrigerator off the glass top under which the track was to be placed. After that, the track was a cinch to put in its place (it's pretty idiot-proof). Perhaps the track wouldn't need replacement if it were made of something stronger than plastic, but I felt pretty handy doing this for my wife, and she's glad to have the hydrator drawers back in proper operation.

inserted a knife between the switch and the plastic interior in order to pop the switch out.
then took off the 2 wires on the old switch put them on the new switch and reinserted the switch into the plastic interior.

I took a chance and ordered a switch that is next to the top of the door. looked for how to remove it easily done in ten minutes works fine last long time.

I took out the old socket by moving a clip. Reattached the electrical wires, clicked in the socket and that was it.

1 removed bottom off old ice maker (3 hex screws) and ice drop shield (white plastic ice flips over into ice holder, old unit had different drop angle, see how described below, but I just musled it off the old unit) 2 removed "ice sensing bar off new ice maker and rotated mechanical sensor to on (leatherman tiny flat head) 3 removed end cap from new ice maker, then loosened to large screws (Phillips, leatherman) for motor unit cover. This allowed removal of ice drop shield on new unit (two tabs, one at each end). 4 removed ice drop shield and installed old ice dropshield on new unit 5 tightened two endcap screws (Phillips/leatherman) and reinstalled end cap 6 installed old bottom unit/tray on new ice maker (3 screws) 7 ensured wiring matched and routed plug properly 8 installed unit slides in 9 plugged unit to existing plug 10 installed old wiring shield (1 hex screw). Waited two hours to verify water valve worked properly, although IR codes did indicate "okay". Machine has been making ice and IR sensor shuts it off properly. So far a success. I have many spare parts if I need to do further repairs including a new water solenoid. Only saying it was a bit difficult because of the parts exchange, in actuality for me it was really easy.

I unplugged the appliance removed the back cover exposing the fan motor.Unplugged the wiring harness from the motor assembly.unbolted the fan motor mounting bracket,and removed. Next I unbolted the fan and motor assembly from the mounting bracket.( I pulled the whole bracket out so it would be easier to reinstall the motor and fan assembly,then reinstalled the bracket with the motor and fan already installed) I installed the bracket assembly with the motor and fan back to its location,plugged the wiring harnessback to the motor. replaced the bask pannel ,and plugged the 110 back in the wall socket

First let me say that the instructional video on your website for this repair was very informative. My son and I watched that before we began the repair. We unplugged the unit first. After removing the back cover, he unplugged the old fan's electrical connection, and then proceeded to remove the fan and bracket from the unit. We then removed the old fan from the bracket, installed the new one and then he reinstalled the new fan and bracket back into the unit. He used the included electric adaptor cable to complete the electrical connection, plugged in the refrigerator briefly to confirm all was well (it was), then replaced the back cover and we were done.

I just followed the directions on the video of my specific model. Make a note of where to locate that video of your model, as there are many other videos of other models that can have different parts located in different areas and it can be time consuming finding the exact video you want again.
Also note that you must make mental or written notes on exactly what direction any parts you remove are facing, this can save huge amounts of time when reassembling.
I was worried that I might need other parts, but decided to do one part replacement at a time since this unit is a spare and no urgency to get it back working again. I found that the evaporator fan was the only thing needed! The fridge works like new again!

In my case the defrost thermostat was not the problem. Not worth going through the hassle of checking the thermostat as I would have had to cut it out and test it in another freezer (while the food that was in the freezer was being stored elsewhere). I just ended up buying it and replacing it. So, like I said the defrost thermostat was NOT the issue. I ended up getting a drain tube heater strap, and have been keeping my eye on the fridge. It hasn't been long enough to say the strap fixed the problem, but all indications are pointing to that being the case.