10651762511 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

Received the union I ordered, then discovered that the tubes were different sizes, so I had the wrong part. I had read elsewhere that it was necessary to trim the two ends of the tubes with a box cutter to stop the leaks - I did this, and the leaking stopped. I was then able to go to a local hardware store and get a 5/16 to 1/4 union and replace it. The leaking is stopped, and the water supply in the door is now working like new. No problem with partselect, but I did buy a caliper so that I can check tube diameters if I ever have a similar problem! This is a great site to find instructions - well worth the time to search!

It was so easy!

Thanks for the rush to my home on the part.

I just unscrewed the plate that locks in the light switch (screwdriver) and unplugged the old faulty part and plugged in the new switch, screwed the cover back on and I was done!

Easy!

And I am not Mr. Fix-it!

Removed nuts and bolts in order to remove ice maker unit, and 4 screws from the surrounding shell to get to said icemaker unit. I'd say it was a 15 minute job, but that's kind of a lie. It took me about a week of procrastination. And then 15 minutes to remove one unit and then put in the new unit. It's very easy unless you're really lazy. In which case it's still easy, the hard part is getting outta your recliner.

1. Remove the ice box
2. Unscrew the two Phillips screws on the base of the ice box compartment
3. Lift up the coupling and shaft (be careful because there is a spring between shaft and coupling and washer)
4. Remove old coupling
5. Replace with new coupling and remember to put back the spring
6. Insert back shaft with coupling and washer
7. Screw back on the Phillips screws
8. Replace back the icebox

1 Remove ice tray
2 turn off ice maker
3 Remove 4 screws
holding on the
cover over the ice
maker
4 remove the two hex
screws holding in
the ice maker.
Remove ice maker.
5 Reverse this procedure for installation.

Used a screw driver to pull old switch. Pulled one wire at a time, only two wires. After wires instlled to new switch push new one back in place where the old one was.

I simply removed the old switch using 2 small screwdrivers and the old switch case popped out. I then upluged the wires from the old switch and reversed the process. Didn't take longer than 5 minutes begining to end! Thank you for the great service! Duncan quaid

In reading other post for this problem on the Parts Select web site, I checked the solenoids on the Inlet Valve (PN WPW10341320) located behind the refrigerator. A previous post indicated the solenoid should read between 500 and 1500 ohms. In checking, I read around 290 ohms, and confirmed the solenoid was ok. There were other items to check, including the primary water inlet valve and filter. I confirmed water these were ok as the water dispenser on the unit worked properly, and the filter has been replaced on a regular basis. I Ordered a new Ice Maker (PN PS11738120) and replaced as directed in previous post. After several days, the new ice maker did not work. I removed the solenoid connector for the water dispenser which is located next to the ice maker solenoid on the inlet valve, and connected to the ice maker solenoid. I depressed the water flow switch located on the door and the solenoid opened, and dispensed water into the ice tray. I confirmed the solenoid was not the issue. I also was concerned about the ice maker over flow lever that is connected to the ice maker. this switch shuts off the ice maker if the ice level is too high. I checked the old ice maker and determined a blue and yellow wire were connected to the switch, and terminated in the buss connector that connects the ice maker and the refrigerator. in normal condition, the switch should be closed. when I checked the replacement ice maker, I found the switch was open, which kept power from turning on the water supply to the ice maker. Parts Select sent a replacement, and after installation, the unit worked properly.
Issue solved.

Popped out with butter knife and unplugged 3 prong connector and reversed with anew switch.

But, unfortunately it got broken again exactly same way as before.
So, I ordered same switch again for 2nd time.

Maytag should recall that Rocker Switch and build with better materials.

Removed the 2 screws holding the light bulb shield, then the 4 uolding the metal panel. Unplugged the olw door switch and replaced.
reassembled the pieces.

Watched video. Unplugged refrigerator and popped out switch. In plugged connector and pushed switch in place. Plugged in refrigerator and the light worked

Referencing the info/schematics you have on your website, I unscrewed/unattached top-front panel (carefully), from behind the panel you have to detach the wires (2) from the switch, pushed "in" the switch to remove, put in new switch and attach wires to test BEFORE remounting panel. Tada!! Thank you PartSelect! You saved me at least $80...would have been at least $100 to have a repair person come to the house!

Repair went well,took about five to ten minutes to disconnect the power from the fridge removed the defective switch installed the new one ,reconnected the power,,,and Let there be light and there was light!

Remove back side cardboard access cover. About 6 dcrews need to be removed. Remove 9/16” bolt and lower compressor tray frame down to slide out wheel axel. Place wheel in slot and replace axel. Lift compressor tray and replace 9/16” bolt. Replace cardboard cover. Remove 2x4.

Simple to replace. 6 screws out. Unplug connections... Plug back in, replace screws.

Unfortunately still not making ice. Will try fill valve replacement.