10651762511 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

Turned off power. Placed all frozen food in insulated containers. Removed all interior door parts to access ice maker, then removed the old ice maker. Dried everything with heat gun to make sure there were no ice obstructions. Installed new ice maker, interior door cover and ice bin. Turned on power, replaced food items shortly thereafter. It seems to be operating just fine.

In reading other post for this problem on the Parts Select web site, I checked the solenoids on the Inlet Valve (PN WPW10341320) located behind the refrigerator. A previous post indicated the solenoid should read between 500 and 1500 ohms. In checking, I read around 290 ohms, and confirmed the solenoid was ok. There were other items to check, including the primary water inlet valve and filter. I confirmed water these were ok as the water dispenser on the unit worked properly, and the filter has been replaced on a regular basis. I Ordered a new Ice Maker (PN PS11738120) and replaced as directed in previous post. After several days, the new ice maker did not work. I removed the solenoid connector for the water dispenser which is located next to the ice maker solenoid on the inlet valve, and connected to the ice maker solenoid. I depressed the water flow switch located on the door and the solenoid opened, and dispensed water into the ice tray. I confirmed the solenoid was not the issue. I also was concerned about the ice maker over flow lever that is connected to the ice maker. this switch shuts off the ice maker if the ice level is too high. I checked the old ice maker and determined a blue and yellow wire were connected to the switch, and terminated in the buss connector that connects the ice maker and the refrigerator. in normal condition, the switch should be closed. when I checked the replacement ice maker, I found the switch was open, which kept power from turning on the water supply to the ice maker. Parts Select sent a replacement, and after installation, the unit worked properly.
Issue solved.

Received the union I ordered, then discovered that the tubes were different sizes, so I had the wrong part. I had read elsewhere that it was necessary to trim the two ends of the tubes with a box cutter to stop the leaks - I did this, and the leaking stopped. I was then able to go to a local hardware store and get a 5/16 to 1/4 union and replace it. The leaking is stopped, and the water supply in the door is now working like new. No problem with partselect, but I did buy a caliper so that I can check tube diameters if I ever have a similar problem! This is a great site to find instructions - well worth the time to search!

Just replaced the switch, but unfortunately that was not the problem; nor was it the bulb....so I am back to square one.
But Parts Select is a great place to order from. Thank you.

Very simple. Matched female plugs with respective male color coded prong; pushed together then inserted unit in slot of freezer sidewall and rotated into position...job done.

followed the instructions provided and that's it!

1. Remove the ice box
2. Unscrew the two Phillips screws on the base of the ice box compartment
3. Lift up the coupling and shaft (be careful because there is a spring between shaft and coupling and washer)
4. Remove old coupling
5. Replace with new coupling and remember to put back the spring
6. Insert back shaft with coupling and washer
7. Screw back on the Phillips screws
8. Replace back the icebox

It was so easy!

Thanks for the rush to my home on the part.

I just unscrewed the plate that locks in the light switch (screwdriver) and unplugged the old faulty part and plugged in the new switch, screwed the cover back on and I was done!

Easy!

And I am not Mr. Fix-it!

The plastic covering over the buttons for water and ice on our refrigerator door ice maker wore out after 4 years and looked bad. So instead of buying a whole new fridge we looked at replacing the panel. I found it here and ordered it. All it took to replace was a small flathead screwdriver to pop the old one out on the tab by the light. I figured out where it was by looking at the new unit. plugged in the new panel and it was good to go and easier than I thought it would be. Thank god because I thought my wife would never stop complaining about the refrigerator door buttons. ;)

We removed the old switch, unplugged it, plugged the new one in and it was easy to do. But when we tried to put the switch back in we had a very hard time doing it. Eventually got it in, but if it had not been for the difficulty we had getting the new switch to snap in to place, it would have taken under 5 minutes.

Used a screw driver to pull old switch. Pulled one wire at a time, only two wires. After wires instlled to new switch push new one back in place where the old one was.

Very simple, easy, and quick! Anybody can do it!!

1 Remove ice tray
2 turn off ice maker
3 Remove 4 screws
holding on the
cover over the ice
maker
4 remove the two hex
screws holding in
the ice maker.
Remove ice maker.
5 Reverse this procedure for installation.

I first replaced the lower (freezer) evaporator thermistor based on recommendation from other feedback, however that did nothing to resolve the problem. I subsequently discovered a diagnostic document hidden under the upper right door hinge, which helped me narrow the problem down to the upper (refrigerator) evaporator fan motor. After replacing the fan motor, my refrigerator is up and running again. The only challenge was accessing and removing the access panel(s) and air column. Once those were removed, replacing the fan motor was simple.

I simply removed the old switch using 2 small screwdrivers and the old switch case popped out. I then upluged the wires from the old switch and reversed the process. Didn't take longer than 5 minutes begining to end! Thank you for the great service! Duncan quaid