Lid Switch with Wire Harness WH12X10334

After removing frt panel which prys off I checked for anything obvious like a loose belt. Then I jiggled the magnet switch located on the inside of the loading cover. I saw the machine start agitating the it stopped again when I stopped touching it. I ordered the new part and spliced it in with the wire crip tool. Now the machine is A ok.

Replaced lid switch with wire harness. Video available on this web page. The technician said bad motor. We counted the flashes, light on top of motor, was 7 times. Diagnoses are very important, save you money! Do it more times, be sure. Biggest problem is socket size for the screws, size 6,5mm or 1/4 inch. Do not call technician or throw away your washer!...

Removed front panel, cut two wires to switch ( color coded ) snapped old switch out and installed new switch, connected wires with wire nuts. Removed two screws in lid, removed magnet and installed the new one. A caveman could do it!

Reviewed your website for problem symptoms for top loading washers not agitating and possible solutions. Purchased the lid switch wiring harness. All I needed was a painters 1" putty knife, wire cutters, Philips head screwdriver, (2) electrical connectors (crimping type), crimping tool, and electrical tape. Very easy installation and problem was solved. Recommendation, the wiring harness should come with electrical connectors (crimping type). The installation video on your website was a big plus in making this small project a success

I wasn't sure what the problem was. I Googled the most common problem for this washer and it pointed to the Lid Switch with Wire Harness. I ordered the part, watched the video provided, and installed it. Installation was just like the video said. Due to the lack of dexterity in my hands due to arthritis, it took about 25 minutes from start to finish. Washer works like new now.

watched the video, and it was simple!

Ordered lid switch from parts select via website. Two days later I received the part in the mail. Instead or re-wiring, I cut wire close to existing bad switch. Splice two wires and cap with wire nuts. Zip tie loose wire to tub housing.

First I googled the problem. Then ordered your part, from specs on your website. Went to Lowes and bout butt splicers. Then when I got email that it shipped I watched the video attached. Awesome. Very proud as I am a woman. Video was excellent. Thank you, Maureen

I followed the video from the website to install the lid switch. Worked like a charm. Great instructions. You do need to supply your own butt splice connectors .

I researched what could be the problem in the internet and follow the instructions from a GE technician, I chose the problem from a list and followed the video the technician played on how to do it yourself. This time was the lid switch which is found visible under the lid opening usually right middle flush with the opening. When I got the new lid, only the switch gets bad so I cut the cable enough to replace the old one, pulled out and cut and connected the new one. If there is not enough cable use the spatula to push the clips on the front panel on the top both side about 5 inches from the corner and pull panel out front and now you can see the wires better and make the connection.