Dryer Drum Belt 4400EL2001F

Unplugged dryer, pled forward to get access to back of dryer. Removed screws, enabling top, front control clip. door panel to be taken off. Lift out drum, replace heater assembly. drum belt, thermistor. Cleaned entire interior and reassembled, working good as new. All parts fit and were a exact match.

Watched the video a couple of times. After that it was a breeze.

Replaced idle pulley wheel, worn drum belt and all 4 rollers (1 frozen) due to dryer age. Site video re general disassembly/re-assembly easily adapted to this model and very helpful with exception of replacement of drum rollers. New rollers received (AGM75510755) were pre-mounted on included shafts. This required removal of existing roller shafts to replace with new shaft/roller units. Site video shows placing a new roller on existing shafts after removing a plastic retaining clip. New roller/shaft assembly is a better option and fortunately I did not order extra retainer clips! Rear drum roller shafts have small carved out space to fit a box end wrench to remove shaft nut. Watch out for sharp edges on internal steel parts!

Completly disassembled dryer removed 2 rear rollers installed 2 new rollers. Reassemble dryer in including new drum belt. Dryer is nice and quiet again running fantastic, thank you for your support

Removed top of dryer
I carefully removed wires from back of control panel
Removed control panel
Most of screws hold cabinet together
Unhook wire from light on door and sensor on the front panel.
Remove the front door and panel together
I changed both front rollers on front panel
If you have to change rear rollers lift tub up by belt
Remove screws on back of dryer that will let you lift out inside rear panel that holds the rear rollers
Change rollers and just revearse procedure to put back together

I took the dryer apart. You have to take the top off, then the door/front off. There are wires & other parts that need to be unhooked as well. A flat tip screw driver can be used to pop the top off. The screws were all phillips. Once you take that all apart, then you can access the drum. I bought the belt because I thought that was what was wrong with it. Turned out to be hair in the drum rollers. Took those all off & put wheel grease on each of them, put new belt on (since I had it LOL) then put it all back together. Make sure everything is lined up correctly otherwise you will have to take it apart & reline (which I had to do)
I am a 49yr old female & was able to do this repair on my own!

Used a video to explain how to do repair. Video showed about 1 1/2 hours, took probably 4 hours at least. Bearings were very difficult to remove and were in very bad shape for a 4 1/2 year old washer. We were very lucky and did not have a spider that needed to be replaced. All and all not to bad of a repair, but without the video we found it would have been a guessing game of how to do the repair. Parts all worked well and the washer is now quiet as a mouse in the spin mode. Spending $200.00 instead of a new washer was the goal and it was completed. Here's hoping to more than 4 additional years before another repair is required.

First of all, I watched the videos provided by this site. I am not a professional appliance technician.

My dryer is mounted on top of my LG washer.
I ordered appliance moving leg pads. And I ordered a small but effective jack to raise up both units to insert pads under the feet.
Now I could slide the stacking unit away from the wall.

I set out my drill, Phillips head bits, pliers, a socket set, a small crescent wrench, and my phone with videos.
I also used a short ladder to get up to the top of the dryer.
Having the dryer mounted on top of the washer was actually perfect for working from the front of the dryer cabinet.
Watch out for very sharp edges. You can wear gloves. But I found gloves to be an impediment to feeling the parts.

My replacement parts:
1) four drum support rollers with shafts. I replaced the roller and shafts together. The new rollers would not fit on the old shafts.
2) drive belt
3) two moisture sensors. Located on the lint filter housing.

Here is how it went:

I spent six hours in one day to disassemble, vacuum, reinstall parts, and reassemble. My dryer is a steam unit, so the control panel electronics are on the right side rather than on the front panel as in the video I watched. In order to replace the drum rollers and their mounting shafts I just needed to pull the drum rear mounting bracket forward just enough to get the small crescent wrench on the nut behind the roller and my socket wrench on the top of the roller shaft. And off they came.

I tested the dryer with a load of damp bath towels. The motor ran but the drum did not turn. It was then that I realized that I had the drum drive belt on with the wrong side facing the drum. One side of the drive belt is smooth. And the opposite side has parallel grooves. The parallel grooves side needs to contact both the drum as well as the motor pulley. The grooves face away from the tensioner pulley.

So, the next day I spent 90 minutes partially disassembling the dryer enough to get to the drum belt once again. I pulled out the drum again to wrap the drive belt over it in the correct orientation. It is not easy to see the motor drive pulley or the belt tensioner pulley. I did it by feel and watching the videos again. I hooked up the drive belt mostly by feel this time. And I got it done. Now the drier runs very quietly. By the way. No need to remove anything on the back of the dryer.

Pretty satisfying overall.

Followed the repair video provided in the order confirmation email. Was easy.

We replaced the drum belt and the rollers. Everything was very easy and straightforward but took a fair bit of time due to the extensive disassembly required. We followed the video available on the website for the belt replacement, which was very clear and accurate. Unfortunately, the rollers we received used a different attachment method than the OEM rollers which are depicted in the video provided. Instead of attaching from the front with a triangular plastic lock washer, they had to be attached via a nut on the back side of the roller. This required some improvisation and was a little more involved. For the rear rollers, we actually had to remove another panel to access the nuts, which was not described in the video. Nevertheless, we managed to get everything replaced and the dryer is working like it was the day we bought it.