ZISS480DRKSS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Take the cardboard grill off the bottom of the back it is held on with 5-6 hex head screws. Located the voltage inverter on the tank. It's on the bottom left of the refrigerator. Removed the screw that holds it in place.Remove the jumper wires at the quick connect. Rotate the voltage inverter and removed it. Check the voltage at the plug in going to the voltage Inverter. It should be 115-125 volts. Plug in the voltage inverter to the Quick connect away from the tank check the voltage on the side that would be connected to the tank. If both sides don't read at least 115 volts the inverter is bad. Order a new on and reinstall in the reverse order.

While the switch did last for 9 years, the design is poor due to the failure mode. The failure should be to fail off or not able to turn on the lights which would be inconvenient but would not warm the refrigerator contents. Arcing at the contacts eventually caused the switch to "weld" closed. It is not obvious that this is occurring so it took some time to recognize why the temp inside the ref was high while the freezer was OK. Replacing the switch was easy once it was recognized as the problem. All that was required to replace the switch was to remove the screws holding a fiber cover and then pulling off the aluminum cap which covered the switches. Unplug the switch an squeeze the keeper on the switch to release it and pull down. Pop the replacement switch in place and plug the wires harness back in. All in all it took much less time to replace than it has to write this up. T Pope

I removed 6 screws, unplugged assembly that had motor attached,removed from fridg,replaced motor and reinstalled assembly, putting back 6 screws.works like new.
thanks.

The existing light switch was very hard to remove. I ended up having to grab it with a pair of pliers and pull it out. Once it was out, it was very easy to put in the replacement and it seems to be working fine.

Replaced flapper

opened refrigerator door located water filter location in right back corner unscrewd 1/2 turn and out it comes without shutting off water it is a snap to do by anyone and shipment was really quick thanks. People do not call a service tech for something this simple even a child tall enough can do it.

remove by hand turning old and replacing new by turning by hand.Lifted out old grill and placed in new one

Followed video for replacing the ice chute flap solenoid replacement because getting to the ice funnel took same steps of disassemble. Looked at how the existing funnel was set in the housing, where and how one spring was located, where the switch and its activating arm on the ice funnel were located, took old one out and put new one in. Cleaned everything in process.

It took me about 15 minutes to complete the repair, 1st I emptied the ice maker, then I removed 4 screws from the rear of the ice maker tray and took the plastic piece off of the auger. I reversed the steps and put it back together.

I replaced that part, but I still have the same problem, no water is dispensed. I believe I may need a circuit board. The problem was not the parts I replaced.

I replaced the three sensors, 2 in the freezer 1 in the refrigerator. This was rated as the most common problem. Did not fix the problem. I then checked the ohms on the new sensors then the old sensors they were all within .5 of each other. So I got smart and went down the list of causes on their list. I emailed partselect and asked what the parts should read. They replied with that information and it turned out to be the voltage converter on the compressor. I ordered the part on friday payed for overnight delivery and it arrived tuesday. This as you can imagine makes me angry. But the part was easy to install and my refrigerator started working right away. I would advise anyone with this problem to start at the top of the problem list use a multi meter check everything on the list and only replace part or parts that don't come up to standards. This will save time and money and hopefully fix the problem the first time as you are not switching out parts and hoping that it solves the problem.

as described, I used a thin screwdriver to wedge in and pull down existing, broken switch. I was able to pull it down about a 1/4 inch, but wasn't quit able to disegage it until I gripped it with pliers. I then pulled it out, unplugged the old switch, plugged in the new switch, and carefully tucked the wires back into the fridge and snapped the new switch into place.

10 minutes total.

After gaining access thto the Evaporator Coil, lots of disassembly, I was able to cut the foam (Heater Trough) and remove it first (in pieces). This allowed room to lower the Condensate pan and slide it out to replace the Heating Coil, which was also purchased from you. Don't forget to disconnect the drain hose. Because of the "V" shape of the pan, the rear portion of the foam trough had to be removed to allow reassembly. I still have to verify whether the Defrost Timer is working properly, but the unit is coolingto proper temperatures (Freezer and Refrigerator).

Regards,
Mike Hall

Watched video, however could not get outer casing off. Under the panel are three small holes, pushed up with an Allen key, used a small screwdriver to wedge out, came out easily, followed instructions from video on removing and replacing solenoid

Tested the circuits then the inverter and found that to be no good. There was no 277 voltage leaving the inverter. Ordered new and replaced. The frig is now working fine.