ZICP360SRASS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

After determining that the ice maker on this relatively new refrigerator would make ice cubes if it received the proper amount of water. Ordered the valve and received in a couple days. Using a nut driver, removed the cardboard cover from the back of the refrigerator. Removed one screw holding the valve bracket to the fridge and removed another screw holding the water supply line and the water line to the ice maker in place. Pulled plug on fridge and removed 2 wires from valve. Removed inlet and outlet lines from old valve and reversed the process installing the new valve.

thats what I did is remove the teo screws and took the old single outlet valve out. And put the new one in and put the screws back in. First turned off the water and put the water back on after I was threw and no leaks.

unplugged the old valve and disconnected the water line, then reconnected water line on new valve and plugged it in. It was an easy process but unfortunately that did not fix the problem. It is the ice maker it self so I will be ordering a replacement ice maker.

I'm not a DIY-er, and wasn't sure a 20 year old refrigerator was worth the repair, but for $30 I could afford to be wrong. The swap is pretty intuitive, especially in my case since the problem was that the water tube from the valve to the ice maker had detached from the coupling. So I didn't have to cut anything off, just inserted the tube into the new valve. Reconnected the supply line, screwed the assembly back on the refer, and Bob's your uncle. Other than unloading some canned goods to lighten the refer, longest process was finding the right size nut driver in my disorganized tool tray. Be aware, there are NO instructions included with the part. Found a good video on you tube that confirmed the obvious. Glad I took a shot!

Removed the old water valve from back of refrigerator by using a screwdriver. Pulled water line off old valve that runs into the fridge and inserted it into the new part. I used a pair of pliers to take off water line that runs into the water valve from the house. Screwed the water line back onto the new valve. Took about 10 minutes.

replaced lights in refrigirator and freezer

Did the repair just as the instruction said, once I read it. The part I didn't read was that if the plug was under the ice maker, you had to take the wire out of the clip on the side. So, had to dismount ice maker, unclip wire, remount maker, plug it in. Still under 30 minutes. Thank you.

Unplug refrigerator and turn water supply off to the ice maker. Remove the screws holding the bottom cardboard-like cover from the lower back of the refrigerator. Remove the water supply line to the old solenoid with 1/2 inch wrench. Unplug the two power supply wires to the old solenoid. Remove the screw that holds the solenoid to the back panel of the unit. After the solenoid is pulled out, remove the output hose with a 1/2 inch wrench. The configuration of the replacement solenoid is likely a little different than the original, but it seems to be rather universal and will fit back into place and perform properly. The new solenoid does not use a compression type nut to secure the output line. It's just a simple push-in connection. The wires may have to be rerouted a little, just keep them clear of the evaporator fan blades Reverse the removal procedure and you're done.

0. As a safety precaution, unplug the range or hit the relevant fuse breaker before you start. You might also want to grab a flashlight. Definitely do not try to do this while the oven is hot.
1. Pinch the wire over the light bulb cap to remove it. This is inside the oven at the back.
2. Pop off the hemispherical glass cap.
3. Unscrew the old light bulb, and screw the new light bulb in its place.
4. Put the cap back.
5. Secure the cap by putting the wire back in its slots on the cap.

No tools needed, the cap is just held in place with pressure from the wire.

Installation could not have been easier!

If you have a reverse osmosis system for filtered water system in your home that also feeds the refrigerator, using another water filter in the refrigerator is redundant, so GE makes a Water filter Bypass Cap that allows you to run using the already filtered water without needing to expensive water filter. FIRST - using a phillips screw driver remove the toe kick plate at the bottom front of the refrigerator - two screws - one on each side of the plate that extends the entire width of the refrigerator. SECOND - Locate the water line (should be right in front) and the valve to turn off the water. Turn valve clockwise (right) until completely closed. Then test by attempting to fill a glass with water using the dispenser on the door. If any water continues to come out, continue turning the valve (without forcing it) clockwise until it has been turned as much as possible. If water still comes from dispenser, locate the source of the water line - most likely from under the kitchen sink. There should be another valve under the sink, or simply turn off (turn the cold water valve clockwise) until water cold water completely turned off. Test again as required. THIRD - clear the top right hand back shelf directly under the water filter screwed into the ceiling of the refrigerator in the rear top right side of the refrigerator. Place a small towel under the water filter, and slowly turn the filter 1/4 turn clockwise without using force. Continue turning until the full 1/4 turn is complete and the filter will drop down without pulling. Place the old filter upside down in the sink, thereby allowing the filter to drain any water present in the filter. FOURTH - remove the filter plug from package, notice notches in top of plug that align with gaps in the area where a filter would typically be screwed into the filter location in the ceiling above the top right shelf in the refrigerator. After aligning notches in the bypass plug with gaps in the screw mechanism, carefully turn the bypass plug 1/4 turn counter- clockwise - at which time the bypass plug should be firmly installed. FIFTH - Reverse step SECOND, and turn valve Counter-Clockwise until valve is completely open. Test to ensure no water is leaking from the Bypass Plug. SIXTH - Finally reverse step FIRST by reattaching the toe kick plate using the two phillips screws removed in Step FIRST. NOTE: The Bypass Plug is quite inexpensive, but after adding shipping from Canada - the cost is about the same as purchasing a new filter for the refrigerator. :-(

First I removed the electrical plug from the back of the freezer that plugs into the icemaker. I then removed the two hex head screws that hold the icemaker to the wall of the freezer and removed the icemaker. I removed the plastic cover, which incidentally protects the gears, by prying it off with a srewdriver. I removed three small nuts(7mm) which holds the internal cam in place. I removed the cam by pulling it off the shaft. Once I got the part from you folks I reversed the procedure that I just mentioned, and put the icemaker back together. It works great. The part with shipping was around $16.00. A new icemaker was roughly $159.00. If I would have called a technician it would have cost around $300.00 to repair.

Moved stuff out of my way on the top shelf, reached in and turned old filter to remove. Filled new filter with water, lined up and turned to lock in place. Whew, never thought I would get that job done. :-)

Tried replacing water valve since no water in ice cube tray. Exact part not available due to age of refrigerator, but I got the equivalent replacement part for $18. Mounting holes different, but I made it work. Also one connect on new one slip connect whereas both compression fittings on old valve. I put it back together and icemaker now works great.

First, turn off power - since I did not want to pull the refrigerator out on my wood floor I tripped the circuit breaker to that circuit and opened door to make sure interior light was off (ensuring power was off). This unit has a bottom freezer, I took out all shelves, ice maker and all parts in the way of accessing back of interior of freezer section. Removed back plastic section by removing one screw in middle top of back panel and prying it out. This was a bit difficult as it was in there a bit tight but once the plastic warmed up it pulled out ok. This revealed the compressor section and temp sensor that was attached to the copper coils with of all things - a zip tie! In pictures of this that I looked at on various web sites the sensor was on a metal bracket attached to the coil so it made me wonder if tf the factory took a shortcut? I cut the old sensor wire, stripped the two wires 1/2", and connected them to the new sensor wire with butt connectors, I put some silicone into the ends of the butt connectors to prevent moisture from entering into connectors and wrapped the connection in black electrical tape. I then "attached" the sensor to the coil using a zip tie, put the plastic back piece back on, inserted everything I took out and put power back to refrigerator. It's been 3 days and temp of refrigerator is stable, ice maker not clogging up, and compressor not running all the time! So far so good.