WW30430W Jenn-Air Wall Oven - Instructions

Took longer to turn off the power than replace the element ,, crazy the appliance company would charge $180.00 for a 3 minute job.

Remove the screws from bottom of door to gain access to the hinge screws. Remove the bottom hinge screws and then open the door to gain access to the top hinge screws. CAUTION after removing the top screws close the door as far as possible while still griping the sides of the door. Pull up on the sides to remove the door from the stove. The springs are fully loaded if you have the door open all the way and try to lift up (like I did) the hinge will spring back and get your finger. Install the new hinge, put the door back into the oven, install all the screws and then remove the temporary rivet that comes installed in the new hinge.

It took us longer to do this repair than others report, but the repair was relatively easy. As with others, our clock display was getting very dim. In fact, when we turned on the oven to bake, the clock and temperature display would both completely dim. While we were not sure that the clock assembly was the part we needed, the comments from others led us to believe that replacing the clock assembly would likely fix the problem – which it did!

To be safe, we first turned off the power to the oven. Next, using a #2 Phillips screwdriver, we removed the three screws on the top of the control panel and the four screws on the bottom of the control panel. Now, the control panel is completely loose from the oven except for the two wired connectors running between the clock assembly and the oven. The two wired connectors take a little bit of care and effort to remove since a “lip” secures them. For the four-wire connector, we were able to remove the connector by wiggling and pulling on it. For the other connector, we needed to use a small flat head screw driver to bend back the lip on the clock assembly, and then still needed to wiggle and pull on the connector to get it loose. Be careful not to pull on the wires!

Note that a connector does not terminate the ribbon cable. To remove the ribbon cable, squeeze together the two tabs on each end of the connector on the clock assembly and pull up on the connector (i.e., pull away from the board). The part of the connector that you are squeezing will rise up slightly and the ribbon cable will rise up with it. (You might want to practice with the new clock assembly to see how this works as it is easier to unhook the connector when the ribbon cable is not connected.) The ribbon cable has two holes in it that fit over two pegs on the part of the connector that rises up. The ribbon cable should simply pull out once the connector is opened up.

Use a ¼” nut driver to remove the four hex head screws that attach the clock assembly to the control panel. The clock assembly is now free from the control panel, but we still needed to pull on the clock assembly to remove it since the fit was very tight.

Assembly is simply reversing the above steps. To fit the new clock assembly onto the control panel, we needed to use a pair of pliers to first slightly bend the metal tabs on the control panel outward, as the fit (as noted) was very tight. After fitting the clock assembly into place, tighten it down with the four hex head screws. If you have not already done so, release the ribbon cable assembly on the new clock assembly by squeezing the tabs and pulling up. Fit the two holes in the ribbon cable over the two pegs on the connector, and then simply push the connector piece down until it snaps into place (making sure that the ribbon cable stays on the two pegs). Take the control panel back to the oven and reconnect the other two wire connectors. To finish up, place the control panel back on the oven, replace the seven screws, and then turn the power back on.

If your experience is like ours, you will be amazed at how bright the new display is!

Removed the 3 screws from the top and 4 screws from the bottom of the touch pad. Pulled the touch pad away from the oven then disconnected the wiring harness and the strip from the old clock assembly.
Removed the 4 screws holding the assembly to the touch pad and pulled it away from the touch pad.
to assemble I just reversed the order.
Easy project.

The repair for the glass on the inner door of the oven was very straight forward and easy. All I did was remove the door from the oven and then systematically took apart the door. I did not have any schematics, but if you just look at it you can figure out what you need to do. Once apart I had to use pliers to bend the metal that was holding the glass in place and then I simply installed the new one and put everything back together. The whole process took maybe 20-45 minutes from start to finish. Now I can bake a Turkey for Thanksgiving...YEAH!!

The video indicating •unscrew old sensor, •pull wiring, •unplug old sensor, and •plug in replacement was good until I pulled the old one and saw wire nuts behind the small square hole! After some research, I learned that the nuts COULD come through that small hole with use of needle nose pliers. One of the wire nuts had the edges pinched off (chipped) in the process. Then I learned about ceramic wire nuts, which I'd never previously encountered. Very important if you don't want to melt your nuts! I cut and stripped the end of a disconnect plug to the stove wiring and now I have a plug in place; which, hopefully, I'll never need to use.

Shut off electricity to stove. Took out bolts, removed old element. Slide tabs out of connectors. Put new heating element in. Put bolts back in and turned electricity back on.

The door seal was an exact fit for the factory one. There are little clips that hold the seal to the door. The clips are already installed in the seal. To remove just grasp the seal at each clip and pull up. The seal comes off easily. The ends of the seal are tucked into holes at the bottom of the door so you can just pull them out. For the installation of the new seal grasp the seal at each clip and push them into the littles holes. I used a flat blade screwdriver to tuck the seal ends into the two larger holes at the door bottom. The whole process took about 10 minutes.

I wouldn't have changed the seal but the hot lasagna made the seal sort of hard after it cooled off.

unplugged oven. removed 2 screws that hold the sensor in place, then removed the dozen or so screws that hold on the rear panel, unplugged sensor and fed wire through insulation. identified and installed correct harness adapter then fed new wire and connecter through insulation and connected to adapter. installed sensor retaining screws.plugged oven back in and tested function.no dice. unplugged oven once again. removed oven control panel and upon inspection of printed circuit board discovered 3 solder joints had failed. dang. resoldered failed joints and also sweetened up a few others that looked suspect. reinstalled controller, replaced all retaining hardware, and plugged in the oven. tah-dah!! works like a charm now. moral of the story is check the pc board first and save $50 for unneeded pats!!! or buy the controller from parts direct for $260ish. btw a roll of solder and soldering iron from an auto parts store cost around $10, learned to solder on you-tube $0. amazing all the home appliances yo can fix if you're not afraid to take a few screws out and poke around a bit. CHEERS!

Removed three screws on top and 4 on bottom to open the compartment of the display clock. Four more screws were removed to take the display clock itself. Three connecting wires were easily remomed (pay attention to the thin wide wire connection, you will need to pull the tabs from both end to free the wire connection). Put the new display light in place. Connected the wire and put the screws back.
I am not a mechanic by any means and I think everyone should be able to do it easily, as long as they know how to unscrew. (dont forget to shut off the power to the oven while doing this)
Somone had suggested that they can fix the faulty part. I will send this to them for $10 only (to cover shipping and handling). They can repair and sell it. My unit is functioning except for the infamous display failure.

Bought a pair for needed door hinges for replacement. Found a DIY video on You Tube showing technique to replace. Door removal was a bit awkward but hinge replacement and door reinstallation was as detailed in video. Could not nor would not have tackled this project without video. Premium quality parts sent and received within days of ordering. Wife happy therefore so am I.

Oven sensor replacement was easy. Thermistor was installed in less than 15 minutes. After installation STILL had "F3" error message. Harness was ok, "Clock" or ECU needed to be replaced. "Computer" is obsolete, no spares available, some companies will rebuilt for $400+. Since the stove was going to the landfill I had nothing to lose by taking the "Clock" apart. It has one chip that is probably the power supply and control chip, another chip is an EEPROM with 128 bytes of storage and the last is a darlington chip that controls the relays. Cleaned up everything that looked like it needed cleaning with alcohol. When I reassembled the unit the pins for the thermistor harness felt loose, so I took it apart, again, and found cold solder joints on all four pins. It must have been there all along but plugging and unplugging the harness finally broke out the solder so I could see it. Soldered the pins back in and now it all works. It's worth a try if you're getting the "F3" message. If the relays on your stove aren't working it would be a good idea to replace the darlington chip. Good luck.

Removed the two screws holding the sensor to the rear oven wall. pulled out sensor wire. It was caught on other wires behind the oven. removed the three screws holding the 8" inspection plate in the center of the rear panel. Carefully move the insulation and reach in to grasp the back end of the sensor wire. Once free from the snag it easily pulls out with the sensor just as stated in the video. using the appropriate adaptor it was easy to re-asseble and and attach to the oven wall. Replace the rear panel with the three screws and it was done

Although only one side hinge had snapped, I replaced both sides with new oven door hinges. Followed the website video installation directions and all went well; the new hinges work perfectly.

For display replacement: remove top three phillip head screws and four underneath bezel screws. Detach 3 wire harness sockets. With control panel assembly detached from oven face remove two screws holding display control using socket driver and replace with new. Reverse steps for installation.
Hinge replacement: Follow guidelines written by previous comments. Before re-installing door in to oven cavity slots be sure to remove temporary hinge "open" pin (small round-head pin approx. 3/8" long which holds the spring loaded hinge in a position to insert it through the oven door housing assy. slots). Also download the PDF service manual found on the web!