WTW6200SW1 Whirlpool Washer - Instructions

The rod kit fixed the issue. I cant really explain how I did it, because I dint know if I did it the right way.

We ordered the outer tub & bearing and now the washer works like it was brand new.

reemplace the lid lock assembly

I read the directions on this web site and was able to install the new drainage pump in about 30 minutes. I suprised myself. Thanks.

need to get washer turned on side where you can work underneath the machine. This job is alot easy if you get where you can see good and have plenty of room to work. You have to unhoook the wire from the old pump and then take the two mounting screws off from there you unhook each hose by squeezing clamp together and sliding backwards away from pump. A pair of needle nose pliers can make this process easier if the clamps are turned in an hard to get to position. You mount the new pump the same way as taking off the damaged pump. Take a screwdriver to help you slide the clamps up onto the new pump makeing sure the sleeves are completely over the new pump fittings and the clamps are slid up evenly, so you want have any leaks. Then replaces wiring harness and mounting screws.

Easy repair. Went to You Tube and saw PartSelect video. The best instructions...should make a link from parts page to video of install. Also replaced Heat element on Dryer. Watched video first.

All went good until installing the rollers. I put a rubber ban around them to hold them in place so I could put the upper and the lower parts together. I had a string tied to the rubber ban so all I had to do is pull the rubber ban out and the rollers stayed in place.

The instructions displayed the parts location and and some instruction. The top of the unit will release and pivot up after the two catches at the front are presed in at the front seam. The catches are located about 6 inches in from the sides. Before lifting the top though you should secure the lid to the top. I used some masking tape. Pivot the top up and brace the top to prevent it from falling back too far or forward over your work access. I leaned the top back against the wall behind the washer. Once the top was secure I began by lifting one conner of the tub assembly so that a corner dampner assembly could be removed. The top of the dampener assembly has a loop which grabes the plastic cup at the top frame of the washer. Lift the tub assembly (about 30lbs) on one corner and as the hook becomes free rotate the plastic cup to disengage the hook from the cup. To make it easier to work inside the washer frame I used the bar clamp to hold the tub asembly to one side so that I could reach along the damper assembly to pop loose the top retainer at the tub by pushing down with a screwdriver. Once the dampener assembly was loose it can be removed and the new one inserted in its place. I repeated these steps for each dampener and was done in about 30 minutes. You may want to note there is a wire clip on the right rear dampener and this was easily removed and reinstalled on the new assembly.

Went to youtube.com and watched the video that took you step by step in replacing the lid lock assembly.

First off always remember to empty all pockets, coins etc ruin pumps.shut off water supply, unhooked water lines and drain into pan.tilted machine forward so i could work on pump which is located lower left. drain pan under pump area, removed 2 rubber water hose's 3 5/16 screws with nut driver. Very carefully un clip rear of housing and removed wire harness. installed new pump

PLASTIC motor housing gets hot and become loose. causing bearing to spin and make noise . Replaced motor that was quick and simple by removing 3 screws and 2 hose clamps , pluged up motor and begain washing again with no problem . Just wish motor housing was not plastic .

Unplug washer. Use scraper to depress spring steel catches under top cover of cabinet. Raise and support cover. Remove lock mechanism from cover using nut driver and remove switch and cable from spring tension clips. The last cable stay is zip tie/plug; pry it from hole in cover. Don't worry about saving this cable stay as the new switch has one pre installed. Before lowering cover place an object such as a rolled up towel over the cabinet spring catches to prevent engagement. Then lower cover. Locate two screw on back of control panel and remove with nut driver. Just below control panel on back side of cabinet is a single screw securing a small cover plate. Remove screw and plate. Lift control panel and turn it over. Locate plug for the latch switch and disconnect it. Then set control panel back in place. Raise and support top of washer again and pull faulty switch and cable assembly from washer. Attach new switch assembly to top cover and place cable into spring clip and insert plastic cable stay into hole. Route the connector through the opening the faulty one was pulled from. You may now close the top of the washer. Lift and turn over control panel connect new switch plug and set control panel back in place. Replace screws on back of panel and the small cover and screw. Plug washer power cord in and you should be done.

Had to dig a little to find what error code "F1" really meant. Thanks to the Internet. Paperwork with machine advises to call a technician. Once I discovered what the error code indicated, I followed the instructions and removed and replaced the controller. Although it was expensive I didn't have to pay for any labor. Machine now functions normally.