WT1701CV (00) LG Washer - Instructions

Our Samsung HE washer started making a grinding noise and stopping at the end of the rinse/spin cycle. I had replaced the clutch and seal 2 years ago and it sounded like it was going out again, however we were not getting the gunk inside the tub like before (seal) and the machine was throwing the tE error code when it stopped which it did not do last time. According to the manual this meant a thermistor error and the solution was "Call for Service". The machine is 9 years old and way out of warranty so....uh No! I ordered the new thermistor for $15 plus shipping to correct the tE code before looking to replace the clutch again or get a new machine. The new thermistor arrived, leaned the machine on its back, unplug one connector, remove two screws and pull the old one out of it's hole, push the new one in, replace two screws and the connector and GO! Problem fixed! No tE code, no stopping, no grinding noise. As best I can tell, the old thermistor was faulting during the spin cycle and the machine went into emergency stop mode which made the grinding noise. It was not the clutch or bearing at all. Most of the repair time was moving the machine out and disconnecting lines so I could lean it onto its back. Note: If your machine is stopping before draining, it will have water inside the tub which will drain out of the hole where the thermistor goes when you pull the old one out. It has an o-ring to seal it, so just expect a little water to come out and be ready to catch all the water or put the new one in quickly.

Removed flimsy, easily breakable panels (one on each side), that cover the hinges for the top lid. Removed screws that cover the pins in the door top, that fit in the swivel. Removed broken door.

Placed pins in new door into swivel brackets, replaced covers that hold the door correctly in place. Tightened in place with screws. Pot panels back into pace to cover the swivel mechanism.

Job complete.
Sorry for the written confusion, don’ see a way to attach photos that make it simple to understand.

I had a hard time removing the agitator, had to get thin prybar to get a hold of washplate. After I removed washplate, I found that the shaft that the washplate attaches to was actually worn out. What used to be a spline was smooth. So I ordered a new clutch assembly. There are a lot of bolts that hold the clutch assembly on to the basket. There are a lot of videos on Utube that will walk you through step by step. The only problem I encountered with this was removing the nut that holds the basket to the tub. One video said it was reverse thread, which it wasn’t. You can check the thread on new clutch assembly to see which way is correct. After I put back together. Works like new.

Everthing went to plan except the wet side of the parts removal was difficult. used puller to remove the wash plate and got it to release. But the plastic part of the wash plate released and left the aluminum part still on the coupling. Corrision was the problem, and I had to again use a puller to remove this part of the wash plate. So it wasn't a matter of just lifting the wash plate off by hand. The rest of the replacement was fine.

I first fixed the stator coil by repairing the cut coil spots at 2 location using solder and with a bit of equivalent wires to extend with heat shrink sleeving to extend over the iron core. Next, I assembled the new coupling in the new coupling assembly with a bit grease around cogs. Wached few videos to see orientation since mine was broken assembly and wasn't certain how it sits inside. Once oriented and seated right, I wiggled to sit in properly over the stator cog..I felt the stator cogs with coupling locked to the shaft. After that I secured the main nut and connected the appliance. All worked perfectly after that. Thanks for sending the ordered parts. Now the washing machine is strong and solid in its agitation.

raised the front of washer by hand (literally) and placed two 2x4 blocks under front lip for support. reached up inside washer cabinet and unscrewed the broken leg piece upwards into the cabinet. this was the only way I could get the broken piece out without some specialized tool to reach it from the underside. replacement with the new leg was a breeze.

unplugged machine, turned off water valves. Moved machine away from the wall. Disconnected supply lines. Removed cover housing water valve assembly.
Took a picture with phone. Disconnected water and electrical wires. Removed water valve assembly . Installed new assembly ,cover and reconnected supply lines, plugged power cord in, turned on water supply valves. Done.

Very close to the installation video online at Parts Select. Removed the back panel, unclipped the hose from the inner fitting and replaced with the rear hose. Why it didn;t leak on the inside is interesting as there was no clip on the at the inner fitting.
The one difference from the existing install video online was that I didn't have to tip the washer over ~75 degs before replacing. I instead found that I could put to cinder blocks under the back edge to replace the drain hose. This made the job quicker without having to worry about having a box for it to rest on (with any risk of falling to the floor).

Very simple repair after watching YouTube video on how to complete repair.

I HAD A CHAT WITH LG EXPLAINED THE PROBLEM . SAID IT WAS THE WATER SHUT OFF VALUE. V EVEN SENT THE PAGE WITH PART# TO ORDER ONLINE.

LOVE LG CHAT!!!