WRX735SDBM00 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

Truth is, this took a couple hours of cursing, but that was due to poor information and no prior experience. I imagine the next one would take 20 minutes. The issues are these: videos tell you to use a putty knife to pry the old switch out. That is harder than it seems because each switch has a plastic spring that pops open to hold the switch on, and you can't access the spring when the switch is installed. So it is important to use the knife on the side of the switch (left or right of spring -- look at the new switch), and back and forth until the switch is worked out. Then it can get worse. The new switch has to plug in electrically before it can be installed mechanically. In my case, with the switch on the fridge wall rather than the top, the outlet for the plug was encased in foam insullation. That gives the appearance that the plug was fixed, immovable, which makes it impossible to plug it in electrically before the switch is in place, and of course once it is in place you can't then plug it in. The problem here was poor instructions. Just scrape out a lot of the foam around the plug and you find that the plug is really not fixed, but attached to reasonably long wires that allow you to plug it in with the switch a couple inches from the wall, and then insert the switch. None of the online instructions tell you this about the wires.

Watched video. Unplugged refrigerator and popped out switch. In plugged connector and pushed switch in place. Plugged in refrigerator and the light worked

For this repair, the following YouTube video was most helpful in showing how to remove the ice maker from the refrigerator model that I have: for some reason this site has deleted my video cite but it is the YouTube video cite that ends in 7HHH03SFdCA Next, because the electrical wiring harness part has changed since production, and the new ice maker part comes with two different harness' (you have to determine which one is most similar to the harness that you remove), take a lot of pictures of the old wiring harness before removing it. There are a lot of different wires that need to be reconnected. There was a prior post by "Greg from Aliso Viejo, CA" that I printed out and followed--that post was also very helpful.

The repair didn't get done, because both times that I requested a 25-Watt Light Bulb, I received a 3.6 Watt bulb instead & neither one worked. So I tried testing the original bulb in a table lamp & it worked. So I sense that the problem may be in the switch that allows the light to turn on when the drawer is opened & shut off when the drawer is closed.

My Whirlpool model (GB2FHDXWS09) Fridge and freezer would not get cold. The compressor would turn on for about 5 seconds and turn off. I called parts Direct and they knew it was the Capacitor right away. I also ordered the Start Relay just to replace it as well, that was my choice.

Received the parts super fast. I chose to pay for faster shipping.

Super great place to shop, watch help videos and get the answers you need for what you need. Super happy with everything about this company and the person that helped me on the phone to place the order and confirm I was ordering the right part.

Done and working. Took me about 5 minutes. Everything is plug and play besides taking a few screws off the back.

Thanks Team !

Bryce

Easy fix, it's right in the back of the fridge under a cover that just clips in, a piece of foam, and two screws. The hardest part is getting the clips free without breaking them. After replacement it's silent instead of making a grinding noise regularly.

Pop off vent cover remove 2 screws removed cover housing and foam. Removed damper by unclipping tabs on left and right side of control lift up and out. Unplugged power wires reinstalled in reverse order.

Popped out with butter knife and unplugged 3 prong connector and reversed with anew switch.

But, unfortunately it got broken again exactly same way as before.
So, I ordered same switch again for 2nd time.

Maytag should recall that Rocker Switch and build with better materials.

Removed old gasket by carefully pulling it out of the retaining groove. Installed the new gasket starting the corners first and then seating the upper and lower straight portion gently in the retainer groove. Total time for installation was at most 5 minutes. After a week no ice or frost has been found along the bottom of door or freezer. Note: the new gasket came in a small box for shipping purposes and the new gasket was twisted in a v for this purpose. Upon arrival, I laid it out flat on table overnight so it could cool to room temperature and straighten. I would recomend this procedure for a perfect installation.

The old cover was off and I just slid the replacement part that I got from you'll, it just slid in place and snapped close. Perfect fit. Thanks guys

Failure detected as Damper Control at upper rear of compartment would continuously open/close, would never stay open or closed. Sometimes the main board would turn it off (maybe a low thermistor limit?), but it would stick open a bit, and keeping letting freezer air into fridge. Could have potentially been control board, but as it turns out after disassembly of the defective damper, the internal microswitch was stuck in the closed position so it wouldn't shut off the motor. Easy fix by gently pulling the cover off the damper control, pull out Styrofoam encasement, then a phillips to remove the damper assembly. Gently push tabs to release wire connectors. Reverse the process and you're done! If I really wanted to go on the cheap, I could have just changed the microswitch, but that looked like a shaky maneuver at best. This site saved me on this one, so happy to share my experience with this Maytag and its nasty habit of freezing my milk and eggs!! :)

you tube video was most helpful. after getting new part and disassembling old ice maker, you have to change out the wiring harness. Reinstall ice maker, don't worry about the timing of the unit as it will do this itself, may take 10 hours to produce ice, mine took about 2 hours to go through its' cycles and give me ice. It is running great

Let the ice in the freezer melt while installing P trap drain tube

Pulled the whole assembly out and unscrewed the Ice maker and old wire harness loose. pulled one wire at a time loose and put the new one in place one wire at a time so not to get them wrong. Then the ground wire I cut and stripped and used a wire nut to connect the two green wires together. Otherwise you would have to take more things off to get to the 1/4 nut on the ground wire. Then put the three screws back in the ice maker bottom.Slid it back in place and plugged in the new wire harness. And put the plastic cover back in place to cover the wires. You can also look on U-Tube to see how it is done. They just do not show the new harness I was sent. I guess the ice maker I got fit other models.

The old plactic ring can be removed with flat bladed screw driver, starting on the right side prying it up worked best for me. The new seal snaps in only one way take your time to get it wright.