WRS325FDAM02 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

Water leaking from under refrigerator. Initially believed leak was from filter assembly. Removed filter and shut off water supply but leak appeared at different intervals again. Large puddle of water coming out from under refrigerator. Removed back lower panel and checked for leak, but didn't find any. My wife was also checking for leak and found a crack in drip tray. Only way we could get the drip tray out was to first remove front lower panel, disconnect and remove wiring harness in front of drip tray, unbolt water filter assembly, and unbolt water solenoid unit at rear of refrigerator. Their water lines connect to filter assembly. My wife controlled the water solenoid unit to give me play as I pulled the filter assembly out as much as I could from the front. I could now wiggle the cracked drip tray out from under the filter unit. Replaced drip tray and reinstalled wiring harness, water filter unit w/new filter, and re-bolted water solenoid unit at back of refrigerator. Replaced back lower panel after turning water back on and checking for leaks. Replaced front lower panel.

The reason still had leak after initially turning off water supply was because the drip tray is used to catch the water when refrigerator goes into the defrost cycle. Since the original drip tray had cracked, water only appeared on floor after defrost cycle.

I began by replacing the central light board by using a plastic non-marring wedge type tool slipping it between the housing and the retainers to release the latch like catch. Then I removed the lightboard and light cover assembly by depressing the latch like retainers for the two wire connectors. Installation was as simple as snapping the wires into the connectors and then pushing the lightboard and light cover assembly into place. One major note: I learned from a repairman that you cannot resolve the problem by simply replacing the central lightboard. you must replace all three lightboards, the two in the refrigerator and the one in the freezer because unless you can absolutely identify which board is causing the fault, it will continue to cause a problem on the main board and the lights will not work. Replacing the other two boards is the same as the central board. Additional comment to consider: I absolutely fail top see how this design of using three circuit boards for a simple light saves me anything; in fact after only 5 years it has cost me in excess of $400 (or 20% of the original cost of the unit) just in materials for a simple light--absurd, ridiculous design. If it burns out again I will have an appliance repairman install a simple 1950's design switch a small LED bulb which will probably last longer than the unit.

simply slid out old damaged/taped up shelves and slid in the new ones i ordered,

Be advised that to do this job, you have to take the ice tray and feeder assembly completely apart. The only tricky part is that the nut, part 31 in the drawing, that holds everything together is reverse threaded. Since it's plastic, you're afraid you'll break it. If you know it's reverse threaded to begin with you can go ahead and apply the required force to get it off.

I removed the glides under the edges of the meat pan, remove the old pan, put the new pan in and replaced the glides. I was very pleased with PartSelect. I ordered my part, and it arrived the very next day. I will definitely order my next replacement part thru PartSelect.

I was not able to unplug the refrigerator because it is housed in a built-in. I removed the icemaker and following simple instructions from YouTube was able to pry the cover off the existing part. After a few gentle tugs, I disconnected the pinned wires from the old part. Connecting the new part was a little tricky but I managed with a little contorting. As soon as the pins connected the freezer light as well as the refrig lights came on. It took about 15 minutes to complete.

Removed the three motor screws pulled off old motor put new motor in place replaced screws and re-installed. It was producing ice three hours later. I originally tried to obtian these parts directly from Whirlpool in which twice they shipped me the wrong parts. Finally gave up on them and entered the whilrpool part number which crossreferenced to new part number which was correct the first try. Thank you!

Excellent fit and installation. The door bins slid right in and created the extra space needed on the shelves.

simply removed wires from the old motor and gently lifted it out by by the metal clips - put the old bracket on the new motor, snapped on the new fan, replaced the wires, reinstalled the shield. All done in about 15 min.

Same as everybody else on this post. Real easy. Actually, I just wish I would have done it sooner.

This company is WONDERFUL! I ordered the wrong drawer the first time, but their return process was a snap and the correct drawer arrived the next day. It's great to know that there is someone out there with just about every part you'll need for about any appliance that is truly customer friendly.

That was due to the evaporator blocked by the ice. Check found the defrost timer is okay. The next thing I can think of is to replace the Electronic Control Board which is installed in the fridge side top compartment. Ply open the face cover, remove the nut and screw that secure the EC Board. Pull out the cable, mount the new card and re-connect. So simple. It is back in order.

I tried to replace the light in the fridge first but couldn’t get it out (that one has the control board and is very expensive) so a replaced the one in the freezer by prying it off the ceiling. When I plugged the new one in all the other lights came on full power. Strange but I sent the other one back.

watched video. Very easy

remove shelves in freezer compartment incl.holders(slide up to remove)
Remove lamp/shield
Remove panel (six phillips screws)
disconnect motor
pull off fan blade
squeeze bracket holding motor to remove
remove motor.
Re-assemble (in reverse)