WRFF3036RB00 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

Remove and replace

Just plugged it in

Pushed on new one as directed online.

Popped out the old switch and replaced it with the one dying

Pried out old part with screwdriver. Unplugged. When new part came, just plugged it in and pushed the part into place.

pull out old gasket and pushed in new one

Checked Video online. Had to remove the 2 snap on track/gear covers. Pry out the gear with screwdriver and the gear bearing unit. Align the flat side of the bearing unit and snap in. Position the cut teeth on the gear to match original and snap into the bearing. Insert the connecting rod into the long shaft gear and then push back into the short shaft gear. The video said to remove the drawer front but I did not and don't see that it necessary.

Initially I thought it was the valve that provides water to the ice maker. Days prior to go bad, it was making intermittent noises while filling the ice maker. I couldn't tell if it was the ice maker or not. It doesn't have a way to test it or reset button. So I decided and bought both parts, the valve and the ice maker unit. The installation was pretty straight forward. It takes ~30 minutes to replace. The ice maker ended up being the defective part. The one I got is a little bit different because it have a ON/OFF switch while the original did not. But everything else was exactly the same. Regarding the valve, it was good, so now I have a spare one in case it fails in the future. I'm glad I found this website to get the parts.

Put new one on matching the sctew feet and design of the grill

Laid the three seals in the sun for an hour and then took and stuck each seal, one at a time, to the door of an adjacent freezer and used the hot air gun to straighten the seals which were bent due to the packaging.

This problem is caused by a "Duckbill" rubber grommet attached to the bottom drain tube of the freezer. This duckbill opens up during the defrost cycle and allows water to drain down the "water slide" to the evaporator pan. It doesn't take much to gum the Duckbill. Once gummed up the defrost water is trapped. The Defrost Cycle eventually makes the water flow out of the coil area to the bottom of the freezer then eventually to the floor. The repair involves unplugging the unit, removing the bottom back cover with a 1/4 nut driver, pop the power clip out to give you room, reach in and pull the duckbill grommet and the water slide, then installing this replacement drain kit. This is a p trap replacement that actually fixes the root cause of this problem. A tricky part is removing the water slide, you can see the white snap that holds the slide in place. Using a small flat blade from the top releases the snap and the unit is pulled upward rather easily. This replacement drain clip snaps in the same place. If I had to do this again it wouldn't take more than two minutes to replace. Oh, one major thing, you need to manually defrost the unit. I pulled the front door off, it is held with 4 screws ... don't remove them just loosen them and it pops off easily. I pulled the bottom tray out an it gave me room to squirt hot water with a baster into the back freezer area. Eventually everything thawed out. If I had it to do over I would have waited on connecting the tube to the evaporator pan and placed the bottom of the tube into a small sauce pan or something to collect the drain water and easily dump it into the sink. I used a sponge and that took forever. BTW, just to reiterate, use this item and not that Duck Bill for replacement, this actually fixes the root cause of this problem!

Repair was tremendously easy. All I did was remove old light switch by prying out with screw driver and plugging in the new light switch and pushing it into the hole. Simple! The instructions weren't needed, but they were very thorough.

Had to push the light switch to get lamp to light up.
Removed power from refrig. and removed old light switch
and replaced with the one I got from Partselect. Turned power back on and was done.

Can not do repair. Ordered part 3/30 due to me on 4/1. Today is 4/15 and still no part. I even paid for quicker delivery. Thanks FedEx!!

bulbs were not burnt out. received the new switch in a few days. watch the short video, was good to see how it comes out. used a putty knife to release the defective switch, removed wires put them on the new one and posed the new switch back in. Not bad Part cost $11.00 7 dollars shipping so for 17 bucks it works great. nice to see what is inside the refer!