WPRE8320H2WT General Electric Washer - Instructions

First buy the tub nut wrench. I can't over emphasize that! $12 at amazon. With out it getting the inner tub out will be the worst part of the job. And you will have to buy a new nut. I had trouble getting the old bearing out of the outer tub. I had to drive it out with a punch. The only other problem I had was after getting everything back together the new tub seal leaked. When I installed it if fit very loose on the OD. I ordered a new seal hoping it would fit tighter but it didn't so I coated the the seat of the tub and the OD of the seal with gasket shellac. That solved the problem. Working great.

The picture of how to depress the clips to remove the front was incorrect. The clips are 4" from the sides not immediately at the sides per the picture. The 4 rubber springs were only part of what was needed for the washer. The old gas dryer was still working. There are two more springs on the bottom of the tub missing not shown on diagrams, so it still sways side to side, bangs around and makes a lot of noise. After putting on the 4 rubber springs, it ran, but probably needed a new clutch also, because it wouldn't spin dry anymore. I ended up spending $2000 for new washer and dryer from Maytag, and throwing out these old machines today.

I had to take out the front panel to access the Tub. Afterward the work wasn't hard.

This was one easy job and saved me money by doing it myself, First I unplugged the washer for safety, then I removed the Agitator by grabbing the base of the agitator with both hands and pulling up I set the agitator a side and removed the one bolt holding the agitator coupling in place. the replacement coupling was a little tight when I replaced it due to it being new, (make sure the coupling is fully seated before installing the bolt) reinstalled the agitator plugged the washer back in and tested repair worked flawlessly thanks partselect

Ordered new pump on Sunday - replaced on Wednesday. Removed front washer panel with putty knife to release latches. Used pliers to disconnect hose clamps. Lots of paper towels to sop up water in bottom of washer and on floor. Unhooked electrical wires. Socket to remove pump. Reverse actions to replace pump. It's "plug and play"!

Pulled the agitator off by hand. Loosened the screw on top of the coupling and pulled old coupling off by hand. Replaced part with new coupling and socketed it in place. Replaced agitator by-hand by simply pushing it down on top of coupling making sure the plastic teeth aligned.

Pulled front panel of washing machine, removed hose, installed new hose, and wipped up water.Simple!!!

I paid over $100 several years ago to have this same repair done by an appliance repairman. I did it myself this time for less than $20. Definitely watch the installation video before you start. Remove agitator by pulling it up by its bottom flange (protect your face in case it pops off suddenly). Remove bolt holding agitator coupling onto the transmission shaft. Pull up on old coupling and remove it. Clean grooves on transmission shaft and then install new coupling over the shaft. Reinstall old bolt and the agitator following video instructions on lining up agitator on the coupling. Note: Standard Fedex Smartpost shipping took 6 days to go from Louisville, Kentucky to western North Carolina. If you're in a hurry it's worth it to pay for expedited shipping. Lots of dirty laundry piles up in a week!

Watched a how to video. Pulled the agitator. Determined that the agitator coupling was worn out. Matched the old agitator coupling to new replacement one. Ordered it. Pushed the new agitator coupling onto the fitting. Secured it with the old bolt. Replaced the agitator. Repaired.

Removed the front of the washer using a putty knife. Removed the old belt and used a shop-vac to c,San up the insides. Placed the belt on the pulley and used three med sized zip ties about one inch apart. I cut off the exposed tail of the zip ties. Got the belt started around and put the belt onto the small pulley. Keeping an eye on the small pulley to make sure the belt did not slip off, I had to push it up a time or two. Then as I pulled the big pulley around, one zip tie broke, replaced it and continued pulling the big pulley, it got tough but with one knee pushing on the drum and pulling with one had it went on. I did slowly turn it to align the belt on the big and small pulleys. Not hard, I recommend a bright flashlight and gloves. I saved a good buck doing it myself :-)

replace lid switch

Removed the front cover with a screwdriver, by locating and slightly prying the metal clpis back to release the cover. Then I removed one screw (only one visible) from the strap that hold the top cover/lid down. With a little prying, I lifted the lid up out of the way, and suspended it with a cord. I removed the old dampener straps and replaced each one at a time with the new strap. It was not to hard to get to the screws (I have large arms), and it only took me nearly a half hour to complete the task. It would have been easier if I used two different size nutdrivers, but it was easy enough with an adjustable wrench. Then simply put everything back to together in reverse order of how I took it apart. The wife was impress that I fixed another thing around the house.

Removed the two hex head screws from the broken strap and replaced it with the new one. The other three straps were not broken but I also replaced them, again, one at a time. This made sense,since the machine was at least ten years old.

Repair went well but there was clips to the door switch not in the video. Still was easy to work around and complete.

The front panel has to be taken off to access the washing machine pump. To do this I used a putty knife I inserted the putty knife in the slot at the top of the front panel where it meets the top of the machine to release the clip that holds the panel in place. Once the panel is off the pump is mounted to the bottom of the machine with two screws. There are also two hoses attached to the pump that need to be taken off. Before you do this you have to get as much water out of the machine as you can to minimize the amount of water that will come out when you disconnect the hoses. My recommendation is to replace the spring type hose clamps the manufacturer uses with a screw type hose clamp. These are much easier to put back on once the hoses are in place. You are not fighting the spring clamp while trying to put the hose on in a confined space. Then put the front panel back on. This may take about a half hour if you do not have too much clean up because you didn’t get enough water out of the machine.