WM4270HWA (01) LG Washer - Instructions

Super straightforward to diagnose and repair.

There was puddle under the washer.

I removed the top (screws in rear, slide top toward rear slightly and lift) and followed the trail of water up to the top washer hose between the drum and detergent tray.

Two hose clamps to remove and replace, then replace the top and ready to go.

2 hose clamps and a hose, easy! This would be a very common cause of leaks in washers due to all the movement inside.

pops right into hole

I used another magnet to pull the old plunger out of the door and replaced it with the new part.

Just put in the new one.

removed top and front. heater is at the base of the tub. the nut compresses the rubber seal and may take some wiggling to remove the old one.

We replaced the three dampers, two in the front and one in the back. We referred to the YouTube video someone posted on this page.

First I had to elevate the washer on 3-5 gal. buckets in order to get underneath it and find the leak. Then I tried to repair the hose itself-which actually worked-but then the rest of the hose just started splitting everywhere I touched it. So I ordered the new part which took some careful comparing and examination online. But it was exactly the right part. You have to remove the top of the washer which is just 2 or 3 screws. Then taking the hose out was a little challenge-knowing I would have to put the new one back in carefully. Use Vaseline on rubber fitting at the end of the hose that connects to the washer. Need at least 2 people to raise the washer up in air to work on it.

Took off top of washer to get access to connector nozzle, which is on top front of washer rubber boot. removed old nozzle, installed new one. Easy peasy

pretty straight forward repair,lots & lots of parts to clean :-)

Watched videos but didn’t show the clamp had to be placed on counterclockwise

Got new door gasket, watched several Youtube videos of repair process. Followed several combinations of the process, which were accurate and it went ok. Met with the described difficulty re-installing the boot due to the spring installation. The use of vise grips for the second spring was the best piece of advice, as the spring tool did not work for that specific process. Door did not want line up exactly the way it came off, causing some concern about the door lock, and possible leaking. After install, it seems to work ok on those accounts. Have only run large bulky items since, which cause many "OE" issues. have not tried a normal load yet, but I think it will be ok.

1 tilt washer back
2 remove cover plate screw from front of drain filter access panel.
3 Remove cover plate and remove 2 more mounting screws .
4 go below washer and pull down sliding clip and move pump assembly back.
5 remove wires and 3 mounting screws around pump housing
6 Swap pump and re-attch wires

Used Youtube to look for a set of repair instructions. From start to end 35 min.

The difficult part was getting the door back on. Only 1 Youtube video I watched stated Do not remove the 2 center screws at the top. Wish I had seen that video first.

Overall very easy to do.

I followed the video. Everything worked exactly as described. i ran a quick cycle and everything seemed to be fine. Started a wash and the machine was going fine but stopped, and wouldn't drain. I thought that maybe it might be the Rotor Position Sensor assembly, which I had already purchased just in case.But first i drained the machine and checked out the pump filter. Plugged solid. I'm guessing when the pump went there must have been a lot of lint and debris in the machine. something you might want to check out, after that repair. Thanks. you guys saved me a couple of hundred dollars