WM30460W Jenn-Air Microwave Oven Combo - Instructions

Once the display became too dim to read, I removed the front panel to determine how to access the piece and to check part numbers so that I could order the proper piece. Once the part arrived, being familiar with the disassembly, it was simple enough to replace the part quickly. The part came out with two screws and the connections were standard electronic multi plug, making the replacement simple. When we turned the power to the unit on, it worked first time.

As described by many others before. Turned off the power at the circuit breaker panel for the house. Unscrewed the front panel, disconnected the three connections to the old assembly and unscrewed the assembly.

Cleaned a few pieces then screwed in an connected the new assembly, put it all back together, turned on the power, said a prayer and IT WORKED!

Cut of electricity. Opened the oven door and removed some screw that were over the door that let a plate be removed. Then that let the part drop down that was holding the clock. I removed 2 screws that was holding the clock in place, unplugged the 3 connectors that feed the clock, attached the 2 screws back in that held the clock, put the part back up in place, added the plate and was done. Turned the power back on. I was delighted when I saw the clock light on. Easy to install.

Removed screws on face plate, disconnected wires, placed on counter, removed hex head screws. Removed one end of electric type circutry, replaced with new part and reassembled.

1. Removed knobs and front panel. Disconnect wiring.
2. Order part and installed. Done

This is the second clock I have had to put in this unit in about that many years. The first time I disassembled far to many things. This time I knew to only unscrew the front panel and side triangle plates. The process was much faster the second time. I hope this is not a chronic problem though.

Extremely simple repair to make. Move stove away from wall and disconnect power. Remove the oven racks. Remove the rear sheet metal panel covering the wiring harnesses. Caution: Sharp edges and corners on sheet metal.Sensor is located in upper left corner on rear oven wall. Using a long-shafted #2 Philips screwdriver, remove the two Philips head screws and gently pull the sensor 1" away from the oven wall. At this point, it will help to have an assist from someone while you are behind the range. Have the assistant gently tug on the sensor while you watch for wires moving on the rear of the range. After locating the sensor wires, gently disconnect the plastic connector clip. Note: plastic connectors become brittle with age and exposure to heat Move to front of range and gently remove sensor from rear wall by pulling the wiring through the oven wall. Before inserting the new sensor wire through the oven wall, "dry fit" the wiring connectors to see that the new sensor is a correct connection. Make connection, and secure the sensor to the rear oven wall with the two screws. Install racks, reinstall rear sheet metal panel, and connect the power. Set the oven baking temperature to a moderately low temp, 300 - 350 deg. to test the new sensor.

I removed the two mounting screws and pulled the harness through the opening unsnapped the sensor from the harness and installed the new sensor i didn't have to used the adapters the new sensor fitted

I replaced the heating element but that didn’t help. So then I replaced the oven sensor and that didn’t work either. Both were pretty easy to do but I’ve now spend $170 and my oven still isn’t working. I called number listed and got a recording that all agents were busy and there was a high call volume so I can’t get any help.

Unplugged the range, removed screws holding the old sensor. When I pulled it out, the wire connecting to the sensor was completely broken through,therefore I could not just pull the wire to get to the connector. Unscrewed one side of back panel to access the connector. Pushed the connector and wire of the new sensor through the hole ( and behind the insulation), disconnected the old sensor and connected the new one. Re screwed the new connector in place plus rescrewed the back panel. Plugged the range in and - Viola! Everything now works like a charm and I have my oven back. Easy-Peasy. Oh - I am an older female with very limited DYI experience. I just saved myself $650.00!

My daughter & I followed the instructions in your video and had fun repairing the door. The video showed exactly how to do the repair. I hope I don't need any appliance parts very soon but I will certainly pull up your web site if I do. Thanks for an excellent instruction video.

John - Hot Springs Village, AR

installed part,turned unit on-temp still cold. reset digital control, up 35 degrees, still cold. un-plugged unit,re-connect after 10 min. still cold.

unscrewed the top face plate assembly disconnect 2 wire harnesses 4 screws to release display clock 1 wire harness and then reverse order

I have only two things to add to the other repair stories on this site: (1) Unlike the ribbon cables inside desktop computers, the ribbon cable on this range is entirely separate from the connector, which is permanently attached to the clock assembly. There are clips on the top of the connector at each end. Push them in and raise them gently to release the ribbon cable. (2) There are two Molex connectors attached to the clock assembly. The pins for one of them were bent on the new clock assembly I received. Before installing it, I spent some time gently coaxing those pins back into alignment. Use your fingernail, and be patient.

1) Unplug Appliance
2) Remove stove front (4 hex-head screws)
(Note: support front while removing screws)
3) disconnect (3) wiring harnesses
(Note: exercise care when revoving "data bus", release with small "dogs" on each side of plug.)
4) Remove Clock assembly (2 hex-head screws)
5) Replace Clock assembly (2 hex-head screws)
6) Reconnect (3) wiring harnesses (reseat bus plug dogs)
7) Reattach stove front (4 hex-head screws)
8) Plug appliance in to power outlet

Note: Before the repair, all functions and displays worked just fine, they just weren't illuminated so you couldn't read any thing. It really steams me that I had to pay $141 to replace a 50 cent light.