WM2496HWM (ABWEEUS) LG Washer - Instructions

The repair went well and your parts are easy to find. This is the second time I have used your services and both times have been great. Your parts are at great prices and your delivery is a lot faster that one would think.
Thank you

After finding you on google it was easy to repair. It saved me $95.00 service charge. Your direction made it very easy.

removed top, removed 2 screws, replace part. did not fix problem, the real problem was the water inlet valve, works great, easy fix. thanks

Removed lid (top of washer), then ran a cycle in normal to identify the failed component, then noticed the water inlet valve assembly for the hot water was leaking, used my pc and went to website Part Select and found to failed part on the parts break down item, then ordered the part, the part "Valve Assembly Inlet" for the hot water arrived 2-days later, replaced valve in less than 5-minutes, disconnected push on electrical connector, unscrewed the valve assembly inlet and installed the new valve assembly inlet, very easy

Turn off hot water supply and activate a cycle on the washer momentarily, with hot water selected on front panel options to relieve hose pressure. Slide washer out to gain access to rear of unit. Unplug washer from AC source. Using pliers, remove washer supply hose from washer-side of the line (water may drain from hose) Remove single Phillips screw at bottom of each nylon lid holder at rear. Using a plastic putty knife, place between front panel and top lid to loosen lid and slide to rear. Remove lid and store aside. Hot and cold inlet valves sit side-by-side at top rear of the unit. Disconnect connector from valve by pulling gently away from valve plug prongs and place to the side. Using pliers, compress hose clamp and move to lower section of hose. Carefully rotate hose back and forth to remove from assembly. Inlet valve is held to washer body rear with 3 small Phillips screws. Remove first 2 and then while holding inlet valve body, remove final screw to free inlet valve assembly. Replace with new assembly by reversing these steps.Make certain when supply hose is reconnected, it is firmly tightened but DO NOT over tighten. Test washer by running a cycle to ensure there are no leaks.

I unplugged the washer, and removed the top of the washer by removing the two screws securing the top to the washer. You'll find them inside the two plastic pieces on the rear of the top. Remove only the bottom two screws in each plastic piece and slide the lid to the rear a few inches then lift straight up to remove the lid. Disconnect the water hose from the rear of the inlet valve assembly then remove the two screws in the rear of the old water valve bracket that attach it to the washer. Pull the old unit inside the washer and set the new unit on top of the old. Swap over the electrical connections to the new water valve assembly, matching the locations where the connectors were originally. Then swapped over the water lines from the old unit to the new unit using common pliers to compress the hose claps. Finally, attach the new unit to the washer with the two rear screws. Replace the water hose and the top, and the unit is ready to test.

1. Remove spring-loaded clamp assembly. 2. Partially pull out the large rubber gasket near the lock switch assembly to gain access to the lock switch assembly. 3. Unscrew two screws holding the lock switch assembly. Carefully separate the connector from the lock screw assembly and replace it with the new part. Reinstall in reverse sequence. Ensure that the electrical connector is fully seated unto the lock switch assembly and the connector latch is fully set against the lock switch body. Also make sure that the large rubber seal is fully seated around the door opening to prevent water leak. Restarted the washer and everything worked as before.

The machine was making a grinding noise instead of draining. I spoke with the LG rep on the 800 line and was told to call a repair man. The Parts select diagram helped me to identify the part I needed. It was clear enough that I was confident it was the right one. Three days and six screws later the machine was working fine.

Ordered a new water valve, easy installation, removed top cover of washer. Two screws and three hose clamps, done in 20 minutes.

removed 2 screws on back. removed top. disconected wires and hoses removes 2 screws holding assy in place and removed assy. put in new assy and installed hoses and plugs in same location removed from. reinstalled top and hose and ran washer.. new valve unite works but has a high pitched whine when valves turn on. :(

During my troubleshooting, I removed the bottom to access the drain pump. I had to cut some wire ties so that I could make removing the wires easier. After checking the pump and putting everything back together, I determined that the pump itself was bad. Pump impeller should not rotate freely! After receiving new part, I installed it relatively easy. I didn't have to remove the bottom since there was enough room through the access hole. Just make sure to make where wires go before removing old part.

We drained the water from the washer via the tiny hose/filter located at the lower left corner of the washing machine. The unit was then pulled away from the wall, unplugged and the hoses disconnected. At this time, we used the wet dry vacuum to suction the water that remained in the drain hose. We tilted the washing machine back until the front of the unit was 18 inches or so off the floor. We used the foot stool to hold the washer up in the air so that we could work on the pump. Replacing the pump was as easy as removing a few screws, unplugging the electrical connections and removing the faulty pump assembly from the plastic housing. (Be sure to mark what connector goes in what terminal). Re-assemble. Re-connect. You are ready to go. It took more time to ready the washer than it did to replace the part.

ordered part from Part Select and it was here very quickly,but the part came damaged (not the fault of Part Select). I ordered another one and PartSelect had it here the next day. I watched the video on how to replace it and it was very helpfull.The particular part I replaced (pump motor) does not seem very durable. I will buy an American made washer the next time I need one. I will use Partselect in the future and recomend it to others.

removed dryer which was stacked on top of dryer. opened washer top by removing screws from plastic hold down parts on rear. replaced valves with new valves you all sent me. reassembled and restacked dryer on washer

UNPLUG WASHER.Unscrew 4 screws holding silver plate at back of unit. Remove plate to expose inside of unit. Locate drain hose at bottom of washer tub. Hose connects at front drain, bottom of tub, and at rear at the pressure sensor. Front and rear simply slide clamps down by grasping clamp tabs and sliding clamp off connection point. Disconnect from tub bottom by loosening main clamp with Phillips screwdriver and pulling downward. Have a towel handy as there will be water in the hose, and it will pour out when removing it from the unit. Installation is the reverse of removal. ATTACH THE HOSE ASSEMBLY TO THE DRUM FIRST, THEN FRONT, THEN LASTLY REAR. This order is the easiest way, otherwise you will spend extra minutes trying to get the tub connection to seat properly. Plug it back in (duh), then you're good to go for another 4 years or so until another hole wears in the hose. I have performed this repair on 3 different units, with 4 years being the average lifespan of this part.