WM2016CW (ABWEEUS) LG Washer - Instructions

1. Remove spring-loaded clamp assembly. 2. Partially pull out the large rubber gasket near the lock switch assembly to gain access to the lock switch assembly. 3. Unscrew two screws holding the lock switch assembly. Carefully separate the connector from the lock screw assembly and replace it with the new part. Reinstall in reverse sequence. Ensure that the electrical connector is fully seated unto the lock switch assembly and the connector latch is fully set against the lock switch body. Also make sure that the large rubber seal is fully seated around the door opening to prevent water leak. Restarted the washer and everything worked as before.

The machine was making a grinding noise instead of draining. I spoke with the LG rep on the 800 line and was told to call a repair man. The Parts select diagram helped me to identify the part I needed. It was clear enough that I was confident it was the right one. Three days and six screws later the machine was working fine.

Ordered a new water valve, easy installation, removed top cover of washer. Two screws and three hose clamps, done in 20 minutes.

removed 2 screws on back. removed top. disconected wires and hoses removes 2 screws holding assy in place and removed assy. put in new assy and installed hoses and plugs in same location removed from. reinstalled top and hose and ran washer.. new valve unite works but has a high pitched whine when valves turn on. :(

Our washer and dryer was stacked, and had to remove the dryer to access top of washer. This took 2 people and was not difficult due to the 168 lb weight of the dryer. Turned of water, pulled washer away from wall and disconnected the supply hoses. Removed the 2 screws holding the top, slipped it back and removed. Removed the 2 screws holding the inlet valve assembly, unplugged the wiring harness from the 3 solenoids, disconnected the 3 hoses from the hose bibs on the valves. Mounted new valve assembly, connected hoses making sure that clamps did not touch any other hoses, reconnected wiring harness, turned on water to check for any leaks, put top back on and tried washer out. Changing the valve assembly took a total of 15 minutes. Really simple. The You tube video very helpful in determining how to do the job.

new pump was a little different ,but mounted properly. Tipped washer on its side, changed pump by working trough bottom and back access. It went pretty smoothly, works fine.

unplug washer and disconnect inlet and outlet hoses. drain water from washer (about 2 gallons) by removing lint screen from front of washer. lay washer on side (I used a blanket to avoid damaging the paint) remove all the phillips head screws in the plastic bottom and the metal feet of the washer. Gently pull the bottom of the washer off. There are 3 shock absorber looking things that pull apart and are greasy. Try not to mess with them much. Just pull gently, and they slide apart. cut the zip ties holding the wires to the washer bottom piece. remove the screw in the lint screen area and gently pull the recessed plastic thing out the front of the washer. remove the screws holding the pump assembly on the front of the washer. Remove the three screws holding the pump assembly on the outlet pipe manifold. Installation is the reverse of removal, take care to put the shock absorber looking things back in gently and together at the same time when reinstalling the plastic bottom of the washer.

The pump is apparently used for more than one washer, and the R&R instructions may be significantly different. I found a youtube video for my exact washer.

Removed the top, the front, got to the pump, removed it and replace it with the new one.

Found the part of Part Select by describing the problem. used a Utube video and step by step we were able to take apart, replace and put back everything with just a screw driver - I saved so much money!

Found great Youtube video, followed step by step. Only difficult part was getting the tub gasket clamp back on. But all in all pretty easy. If tub won't drain and weird noise coming from pump do not hesitate to do it yourself and save some coin!

Found on line OE meant washer not pumping out water with the suggestion to clean the filter and inspect the pump and lines for blockage. No problems there. You must be careful to empty the water manually before removing the filter. My wet vac helped but I still made a mess. I found a mechanic to look at the washer. He said it is common for the pump on these washers to go bad, especially if the washer has sat out of service. They wanted $300 to replace the pump. I found the part on this website for $53 and replaced it myself. The only hard part was emptying the water without making a mess and leaning the washer up and back far enough safely to remove the pump, then working on my back under the machine.

We drained the water from the washer via the tiny hose/filter located at the lower left corner of the washing machine. The unit was then pulled away from the wall, unplugged and the hoses disconnected. At this time, we used the wet dry vacuum to suction the water that remained in the drain hose. We tilted the washing machine back until the front of the unit was 18 inches or so off the floor. We used the foot stool to hold the washer up in the air so that we could work on the pump. Replacing the pump was as easy as removing a few screws, unplugging the electrical connections and removing the faulty pump assembly from the plastic housing. (Be sure to mark what connector goes in what terminal). Re-assemble. Re-connect. You are ready to go. It took more time to ready the washer than it did to replace the part.

Loosened hose clamps to remove old bellows. That seemed simple but was awkward reaching into the confined space. Clamp adjustments were all installed facing away from access opening. New one went on easy and I reinstalled clamps facing the opening. Perfect fit!

Hardest part was getting the correct part. Due to some glitch somewhere there was a mix up in the database for the correct pump number. This unit has two pumps mounted to the same housing. One is a recirculating pump and one is discharge pump. I ordered the discharge pump and kept receiving the recirculating pump. Discharge pump is LG PART#4681EA2001T and recirculating pump is LG PART #4681EA2002H Once in hand the install went fairly smoothly. Removed top - two screws on back of unit. Removed control panel with one screw on upper right inside corner, associated plugs and snap clips. Removed soap tray and drained water through filter tube. Removed screws in front of filter. Using Vise grips stretched spring from around front seal. Removed screws holding front of washer to top frame (2?)[accessed after soap tray removal]. Pump assembly located in bottom left, removed associated hoses, Marked wired colors on pump housings and removed. Removed assembly. Unscrewed pump, installed new pump and reversed procedure to reassemble. Struggled mostly with replacing spring around front seal. Stretch it as far apart as you can as you "roll" the spring in and then massage the seal to get the spring into correct position. Definitely a doable repair. Good Luck.