WM1832CW LG Washer - Instructions

There are YouTube videos out there that are very helpful. The only place I had to deviate was removing the hoses. They were old and I couldn't separate them from the nozzles. I had to cut them and then remove the small piece on the nozzle. This made the hoses a little shorter and I have to pull them a little harder to get everything put back together but it seemed to all work in the end.

Followed the video instructions provided.

I followed the video on the PartSelect web site for this repair and it went just fine. I also replaced the drain hose while I had everything apart. Thank you PartSelect, same day shipping. Arrived within 3 day's and your video was spot on.

Viewed two (2) on-line video's for bearing replacement. Produced a 40 item "punch list" as to action to perform following video. Followed sequencing of video's. Noted a 10mm and 17 mm socket needed, used 3/8 drive sockets. Also noted that a "deep Socket" of unspecified size used to aid in removal of nylon pins attaching (3) shock absorbers. Found that 1/2 inch sized (SAE) socket in my 1/2 inch drive socket set fit in the confined space nicely. Did not need the "deep sockets" (3 plus inch overall length) rather a normal sized 1/2 drive socket worked nicely to depress the nylon pin retainers. During reassemble replaced outer tub gasket, checked bolt torque six (6) times over 45 min. to assure complete seating.

Former LG repair looked under washer while it was engaging & noticed motor was not spinning. LG took forever I ordered the part from you guys. It looked different from original. Figured out to take extra port for front loader. I have top loader. Installed washer works great!!

Change the thermistor

I BROUGHT UP THE YOUTUBE REPAIR VIDEO AND FOLLOWED IT STEP BY STEP AND WORKED OUT GREAT THANKS

Some screws, some clamps. Easy and straight forward. unplug machine, turn off water, disconnect water hose, unscrew top of machine (2 philips head screws), disconnect clamp from valve (use a towel for remaining water), disconnect wire, unscrew from place holder, remove entire valve, work backwards from there.

Remove old one and replace. Just make sure it is all the way on and secure or you will have a huge mess on your hands.

Pull the washer away from the wall to get behind it. Unplug the electrical power cord from the wall. I removed the top cover by unscrewing the 2 screws on the back of the washer. Slide the cover back about 1-2 inches towards the back of the washer and then lift the cover up and remove. It might be a little tight to slide back, you may need to wiggle the cover side to side or give it a good smack. The water inlet valve is directly at the top inside of the washer. I saw a slow leak dripping from the hot water inlet valve onto the back side of the drum. Turn off the water supply valve at the wall and then unscrew the supply water hose from the water inlet valve at the back of the washer. Disconnect the electrical connector and water hose from the inlet valve inside the washer. From the outside of the washer on the back, remove the screws holding the water valve and lift out the valve. Install in reverse order.

Unplugged the washer,removed the rear cover, removed the old rotor assembly & installed the new rotor with thread lock on the retaining bolt.

First we unplugged the machine. Then turned off the water and disconnected the hoses. Pulled out the machine and laid it on its side to access the themsistor located on the drum. (No, you do not have to remove the control panel at all to replace this part) The thermsistor is clearly seen with a flashlight. There were plastic ties holding the wires of the thermsistor so we used small scissors to cut the ties. Then unplugged the old thermsistor and plugged in the new thermsistor and used a regular bag twist to secure the wires. Repair complete and the machine is back to normal. Thank you Part Select.

Removed lid (top of washer), then ran a cycle in normal to identify the failed component, then noticed the water inlet valve assembly for the hot water was leaking, used my pc and went to website Part Select and found to failed part on the parts break down item, then ordered the part, the part "Valve Assembly Inlet" for the hot water arrived 2-days later, replaced valve in less than 5-minutes, disconnected push on electrical connector, unscrewed the valve assembly inlet and installed the new valve assembly inlet, very easy

1. Unplug washer. 2. Shut off water supply (hot and cold). 3.Remove hot water hose at washer inlet. 4. Remove the 2 plastic pieces that hold the washer top to the washer body by removing the 2 retaining screws. 5. Pull the top back to remove and set the washer top off to the side. 6. Unclip the electric harness from the inlet water valve. 7. With your pliers, loosen the clamp on the water inlet valve discharge hose and remove the hose from the valve. 8. Loosen and remove the 2 screws holding the inlet valve to the washer body. Install new hot water inlet valve and follow steps in reverse. Check for leaks before plugging washer back in. Run washer and check for leaks. Note: Excellent video available on You Tube. Consider replacing both the hot and cold water connecting hoses during the repair if they are old.

Unplug Washing machine first. Then remove 2 screws at the back of the top cover. Slide the top cover back then lift and remove. Unplug electrical connector @ inlet valve and remove water lines 1 going in and 1 out of valve. Remove 2 screws holding assembly in place then install new valve assembly and all other components in reverse order.