WFW8410SW02 Whirlpool Washer - Instructions

I purchased the downloadable Maytag Maintenance Manual (PDF format) and followed some of the directions and pointers from this web site. All in all, it was a pretty simple process. 1) Take the top off - 3 metal screws, 2) take the control console and detergent dispenser out - 1 T-20 Torx screw and multiple plastic clips and 1 wire connector, 3) take the lower panel off - 3 metal screws, 4)take bellows retaining ring off -- spring retainer used a needle nose pliers, 4) take off door latching mechanism - 2 T-20 Torx screws and multiple clips + 3 wire connectors, 5) take front panel and door off - 4 metal screws, 6) remove bellows retaining clamp with phillips screw driver, 7) remove old bellows. Reverse the process to install new bellows. On installation, make sure that bellows drain holes are at the bottom of the door. Also, hardest and most time consuming part was installation of the metal retaining ring (spring retainer) fought with it for about a half hour before I finally got it on. BTW all metal screws for my machine were 1/4" head the remainder were all Torx T-20. Good luck!

Searched internet for diagnosis. Ran diagnostic test using the diagnostic manual from whirlpool. The error code was F29. Replaced door latch but problem was not solved. Then order the Motor Control Unit. Removed old control unit through the top by removing the top washer cover and numbering harness positions with painter's tape. Install the new Control Unit and ran diagnostic procedure. The problem was solved. The washer is working fine.

First, I looked at a replace bellows video on U-Tube that saved a lot of time in knowing how to proceed. You really need nutdrivers as sockets won't fit on the screws. Fitting the bellows on the large drum is not as simple as it appeared in the movie. It took several attempts to get it in place, but it was simple to place the clamp after it was there. Other than that, just follow the steps in the movie for your model

First I removed the bottom panels then the door then the top then the front control panel, I had to go to different web site to get directions on how to do this, after you remove screws you have to unplug U18 from electrical control box. Then remove bumper, find wire around front of bumper and remove using needle nose pliers, then remove back of bumper from tub using phillips head screwdriver. Then with help we replaced with bumper. and put the machine back together. My complaint is there were NO instructions in the box with the bumper and the ones on your web page are not detailed enough. I had to search the web "how to remove maytag door bumper" before I found how to remove it.

I was already very familiar with the motor & drain pump, as I had disassembled my original one in attempt to find the problem & fix it. Finally, I broke down & purchased a new one. It was VERY easy to install! The most difficulty was finding the right sized board to put underneath & raise the machine up (with the dryer attached to the top of it) to place the board underneath so that I could tighten the bolts from underneath to attach the pump. After that was over, the rest was cake! Just attach the hoses & the electrical, which just clips in place & my washer is like new again! Yay! Oh, and yes, I'm a woman DIY'er.

This part worked great! Completely fixed all the problems that I had with my washer. A bit hard to actually place it in(pliers are necessary) but otherwise very easy to install.

After unplugging the washer, the unit was pulled forward and tipped backwards, I placed a 2x4 under the washer to serve as a brace. I removed the existing bolts holding the old pump in place, removed the spring hose clams, unplugged the pump and removed the damaged part. inserted the new drain pump, re-inserted the bolts and tightened them, replaced the spring clamps with "regular" hose clamps supplied with the replacement part, plugged in the power supply, removed the brace, pushed back the unit and plugged it into the outlet. From start to finish - about 20 minutes. Was running wash about a half hour after I started.

Very --simple remove front acess panel -- open sump clean out remove water out of existing pump an hoses with small wet dry vac -- remove small wire harnes --cut band clamp on discharge with side cutter --remove inlet -suction side of pump hose clamp with channel locks --un bolt two screws on bottom side of washer with 5/16 nut runner --discard old pump reinstall new one in reverse order --only takes about 20 mins total !!! ---

I pulled the front load washer away from the wall and unplugged. I tilted it back against the wall. I removed three screws from the lower front cover plate of washer. Once removed, I had access to the tub to pump hose which I found a small hole in. I went online to Partselect and found my part. The hose was connected in three different places by compression clamps. I then pulled the compression clamps off the connections. Cleaned up all connection points with a damp rag. Upon installation of the new tub to pump hose, I discarded the compression clamps and installed the new part using radiator clamps purchased at a auto parts store. Plugged washer back in and started a load too make sure all connections were good and tight with no leaks. After checking for leaks, I re-installed the front cover plate. Tilted washer back down being careful not too set it down hard or on my feet. Job Done....

Followed instructions from a You Tube video. I'd recently lost my job and money is tight and I thought we could save money doing it myself. By watching the video and ordering parts from you we were able to save $500 between parts and labor. Thanks

the hardest part of the repair is having the confidence to pull all the screws and remove door etc. Dish soap was a good trick when I needed the last bit of the bellow to pop/stretch into place in step 1 of attaching the bellow.

Received water valve in three days, remove top on washer, removed old part and replaced valve with new one, real easy fix, any one could do this. PartSelect confirmed this was the problem and part I needed.

dryer stacked on top of washer. had to lift washer and block w/2 x 4 to get under unit and replace pump

First unplug the washer. Make sure and drain washer completely. If not drained remove front panel , Remove 2.5 inch Plastic drain cover which has a catch bin on it. This will allow it to drain the washer. Put pan underneath to catch the water. Tip washer back and prop up with something 6 inches tall to get to the screws underneath. A cement block would work well. Use pliers to squeeze hose clamp together to remove the Hoses. Gently lift up The flip down cover Over the top of the wire harness Push in the tab on the wire harness, Gently pull back on the wire harness. Remove two mountings screws from the bottom of the washer. Slide the whole pump housing to the right and Lift up. Now the pump is been removed. Inspect inside the hoses For Debrie. Remove anything that is left in the hoses. Reinstall the pump in reverse order from the way you took it off. Leave front panel off Make sure all hoses and wire harness are hooked up. Run wash cycle to make sure there are no leaks. Do not put hands in while running. If no leaks replace front panel. Not sure if this is the right way But this is the way we did it and it worked well. Washer runs quieter now than it did when we got it

I used the video at parts select as a review, then just followed it. Easy de-install, reminder there's water in the line be prepared with a pot or vase to hold the water. Easy install. Washer runs perfect now. As quiet as when we bought it. I always try to fix before I re-buy, not a big green guy but I try to keep stuff working and out of land fills. Also the part was at my door in 1 day, Awsome!.